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Installing lights


CDN_S4
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I picked up a set of KC driving lights and while I understand the theory of installing these, my only hurdle right now is how to get the wires from the lights through the firewall into the cabin to install the switch?? A bunch of people here have done this so I was really hoping for some advice. Thanks

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There are a few options,

 

You could run them in tandem with the fogs and have them turn on at the same time, using the factory switch, would probably want to run a relay though, so a little bit more wiring but nothing extreme.

 

As far going through the firewall if have an automatic, you can drill a hole in the clutch delete plate. And it's very straight-forward from there.

 

Or if you have a manual transmission, like me, you can find some gaps in the upper left side of the engine bay, (passenger side) where you can fish some wires through the fender, down the side to some small holes in the passenger side kick panel. ran my sub power wire through there. Works fine. If you want to go that route, I can point you in the direction of the thread that shows you where to go as its sorta hard to describe.

 

-Kyle

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I don't have fog lights so that wasn't an option. I ended up running them between the fender and the door sill on the driver side into the cabin begin the alarm light. I had a spare switch spot there that I used.

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So, are you saying that the wire actually enters the cabin through the door opening itself? If I'm understanding this correctly, it needs to be rerouted ASAP! I was in the car stereo industry for many years in my previous career and have seen many people route their accessory's power wiring this way. I have also see quite a few denied insurance claims when the vehicles caught fire due to a dead short. Please, please, don't be that guy. Route the wiring properly through the firewall.

Edited by CIGARGUY
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Oh wow...glad you shared that. I'm definitely going to revisit the wire routing then. The directions actually suggested this method of routing which is what led me to it in the first place. But yeah definitely don't want it to burn down...

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So I found the perfect solution:

 

There is this plaque held on by 2 acrews:

 

8ezemuju.jpg

 

Removed it, checked from under the pedals and saw light. Retorted the wires through there:

 

4upehe4e.jpg

 

ege4apy3.jpg

 

8ynuhupy.jpg

 

Sealed it with flex seal

mutesa4e.jpg

 

9ezuty2a.jpg

 

All internal wires now through the firewall.

 

ta5y8ybu.jpg

 

And no more door jam wire salad.

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Glad you found the clutch delete plate, it's the safest way to go when wiring in accessories, just make sure that you don't wire rubing against metal, as that is what causes the short that cigarguy mentioned. Usually you just drill a hole thought that plate and put a grommet on it and run the wires through that.

 

-Kyle

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Thanks for the tip Kyle, that is a good point. Glad you brought that up. I'm going to have to tape that up nice and thick then and then reinstall.

Edited by CDN_S4
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drill a hole in the clutch master cylinder delete plate and use a rubber grommet, much better appearance and no worry about the wires rubbing against metal, Was going to say if the truck has no AC there would be a similiar plate on the pass. side.

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Good job rerouting those wires! Well done! I'm not yet that familiar with my Pathy, but most vehicles will have some existing rubber grommets that you can poke a small hole in to run the wiring through. If you can go that route it negates the need to drill a hole or find a grommet. Just a quick little tip.

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Yeah I was looking for grommets as that's what I was initially banking on doing, but there is only one and it sits right behind the engine block, making it unreachable for something as simple as this. Using the clutch "hole" on automatics is most definitely the easiest and most accessible location on the driver's side. It has however metal brackets on the other side of it making it not simply a big hole, but rather something where the wires have to be "squeezed" past, as you can see in my #8 post, 1st photo. This is why I simply put a good amount of electrical tape around them so that they remain protected.

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Wow, that looks perfect. I will have to do that once I get the lights. Would definitely help out for going to camp late at night.

 

How do you minimize the draw on the battery? Or are you planning on running dual batteries?

Edited by Quaintbucket
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I only plan on using them while driving. I don't need spot lights to camp lol. Eventually I will probably get a dual battery setup as I add more toys to the rig. But for now, charge shouldn't be an issue. If it does, I'll upgrade the battery to a better one.

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