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CDN_S4 build thread


CDN_S4
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I was thinking the same remark J, but then saw the other led thread. I like the output of your LED headlights, mine are less than adequate - barely outshine my factory fogs. May have to go back to HID, or make a projector conversion...

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To be honest, these are better than expected. In combination with my other LED's which are pretty much aimed at the ground, the total light produced is quite awesome.

 

 

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Next project:

OEM tire carrier retrofit. First this will need some TLC to get looking new again. Then some blind nuts and drillavaganza to mount it all up.

 

 

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Edited by CDN_S4
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While I was at the JY, there are 4 good donor vehicles for me that have pretty much all the parts I'll ever need.

I just recently had my dad for a visit and he had a hard time getting in and out of the truck and that I should install a handle. Well I took a rear one out of an 02 SE and mounted it in my front passenger A pillar. I didn't measure properly the first time, which means I ended up cutting out 2 big chunks to seat the handle flush against the pillar. It's not very "pretty" so I might just go grab a new piece of trim to make it nicer.

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The rest of the day was spent prepping the rear swing out bits and pieces for paint.

 

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Nice, digging in already!

 

About the grab handle, that might be a project where the rivet tool can come in handy. You can now put a thread insert wherever you want. In your case, if you want to simplify the holes in the a-pillar trim, you can probably use 1/2" aluminum spacers, drill simple holes in the trim, and mount a universal grab handle through the spacers and into the blind nuts.

 

Also, look into some stepper drill bits...these work pretty well on the trim for producing larger holes. I also used these on the steel for the tire carrier install.

 

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http://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-bit-set-2-pc-69088.html

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Yes that's a great idea! I used self tapping screws to mount the grab handle. But now that I got that rivet tool coming, I will re-do it with a threaded river and spacers like you described so that the handle can sit on the pillar trim. For that though, wouldn't I have to weld the spacers to the pillar to prevent leverage from pulling on the mount when someone is to lift their partial body weight into the seat? I think the bolt head needs to be as close to the solid pillar as possible.

 

I do have those stepper drill bits. It's just that this required square holes, which due to my shotty measuring had to be made bigger than necessary.

 

 

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Yes, you will need to be mindful on leverage. Probably won't need to weld them, but if you can reduce leverage, that would be best. I don't recall what the area looks like specifically, or how far away from the metal the trim actually sits, so maybe there's another option.

 

Gotcha on the holes. Been there, done that.

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Today I replaced one of the wheel studs on the carrier that was bent. Put a second coat of paint on the 3 bumper pieces. Cut out the 3 pieces which are outlined on the inside of the bumper, AND I discovered that the metal where these pieces attach into is thicker and comes out more than any other part of the trunk surround. This shows IMO that the body is likely the same, wether or not it came with a swing out. Despite Hawairish's findings of allegedly no support behind the taillight between models that came equipped vs non equipped, makes me wonder if they are all the same after all.

When I looked into the holes of the donor Pathy the holes didn't seem all that deep, it didn't appear to be anchored into anything.

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Either way, from Hawairish's experience these carriers hold up really well.

 

One step closer:

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Now all that's left to do is finish the paint on the carrier and wait for the rivets and bolts to arrive so I can start drilling. Also I couldn't find a 13.5mm drill bit. But I also only checked in one Canadian Tire. So I ordered one from Amazon.

 

 

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Hawairish's findings of allegedly no support behind the taillight between models that came equipped vs non equipped, makes me wonder if they are all the same after all.

 

Actually, there is support. Check out Kyle's response and pics in the other thread.

 

The reason I didn't attempt to reinforce it is because of the angles that the blind nuts will be at relative to each other...there's a slight opposition to each one, so that alone adds rigidity. Plus, the bottom corner of the quarter panel has a structurally-sound shape that helps the cantilever.

 

Also, I believe one of the steps on my stepper bit ended up being near-perfect for the blind nuts. I did also buy a 13.5mm bit, but it didn't hold up well.

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Also, I believe one of the steps on my stepper bit ended up being near-perfect for the blind nuts. I did also buy a 13.5mm bit, but it didn't hold up well.

 

I figured that might happen, and I anticipate it to happen to me too since the one I bought only cost $9 while there were some for $300+ LOL. So yeah, I will likely end up using the stepper bit too.

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Had to get a new Windshield today. Had a crack that spread in the cold temperatures with the heat inside the vehicle.

Gone is my Pathfinder decal and zombie hunting permit. :(

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Just for sh*ts and giggles I decided to install the 12v outlet that I removed from the Center console after my upgrade, into the trunk. Now I have access to power front Center and back. The back should be particularly convenient when camping ad living out of the trunk. It is powered by a small scooter battery that is trickle charged by a solar panel on the roof. I had all the materials laying around the garage, I.e this was the setup I used to run the power on my spare tire carrier. But since I now have an OEM swing out I no longer need it.

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Nice install! I plan on doing something similar eventually, but I think I'll stick with the factory location just to the right of the storage door.

 

Virgil, did you know about the OE location? I thought they all came standard anyway.

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No I didn't actually know about a stock option. There was nothing that looked like it. I figured if I ever wanted to reverse it, having a hole in the panel would be the easiest way to "fix" it. Plenty of those at the junk yard lol for like $5.

 

 

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May as well add another. The OE socket location is that flat spot about 8" from where you installed it, at about the 4 o'clock position. You may actually have a pigtail back there already.

Edited by hawairish
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I checked behind the flat spot. While that would have worked too, there was no wiring in place unfortunately. For now I will leave my setup as is unless the solar charging would prove to be insufficient.

 

 

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I have a lot of stuff already hanging off of the main battery as well as a separate solar charger on my dashboard that trickle charges the main battery. I just didn't want to tap into other wiring back there and keep it a simple stand alone setup. Not that I thought this one outlet would overload the system but mainly because I had all these parts already and wanted to do something with it. Besides having a second power source can never hurt.

 

 

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I just spent the 3 most nerve wrecking hours ever, working on the Pathy. Drilling into sheet metal with only one shot to get it right was a nail biting experience lol. But at last I got er done.

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I too did the "hang my own weight on it" test and it held up fine. It seems to do fine with the 33 on it as well when fully extended.

 

For now I just strapped the license plate into the middle of the rim as I did this on a Thursday night and it's getting late. I will relocate the license plate on the trunk over the weekend.

 

...I'm glad this is over and I didn't screw up!!! Lol

 

 

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Going back to the rear Accessory power outlet for just a second, is that a Deutsch connector? If so, what crimper are you using? How do you like it?

 

The swing away: awesome work! I can only imagine to nerve wracking feeling of drilling into perfectly good sheet metal. So glad hawairish did his write up, how many people have now retrofitted swing away's because of him!?

 

Gotta ask though, why the switch from the killer custom one you had?

 

Also, do you have any intentions of doing the angled wheel mount like you did on the other mount? If you do, please make one for me too! Because i have wanted to angle the wheel for SO long!

 

LASTLY

 

How tight are those tail light guards? It looks REALLY tight from the pictures and doesn't look like they will fit if you have the stock hinge covers like i do? I Really want a pair of taillight guards , but only if they fit! (obviously :happy: )

 

All in all, nice work dude, thanks for taking pics along the way!

 

-Kyle

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Going back to the rear Accessory power outlet for just a second, is that a Deutsch connector? If so, what crimper are you using? How do you like it?

 

The swing away: awesome work! I can only imagine to nerve wracking feeling of drilling into perfectly good sheet metal. So glad hawairish did his write up, how many people have now retrofitted swing away's because of him!?

 

Gotta ask though, why the switch from the killer custom one you had?

 

Also, do you have any intentions of doing the angled wheel mount like you did on the other mount? If you do, please make one for me too! Because i have wanted to angle the wheel for SO long!

 

LASTLY

 

How tight are those tail light guards? It looks REALLY tight from the pictures and doesn't look like they will fit if you have the stock hinge covers like i do? I Really want a pair of taillight guards , but only if they fit! (obviously :happy: )

 

All in all, nice work dude, thanks for taking pics along the way!

 

-Kyle

Kyle,

 

Thanks!

1- yes that is a Deutsch connector. I have some left overs from lights so they were already wired up. I just had to crimp the cable ends onto the usual end connectors, not sure what their technical term is but you find them in any hardware store. Those clamps that fit snuggle fit over the prongs of the power outlet.

 

2- AFAIK I'm the 3rd guy now to retrofit a carrier since Hawairish. I wasn't REALLY planning on doing this mod, but when I saw a carrier in great shape at the JY, and only cost $40 I couldn't resist.

 

3- I still have the killer custom one. It just needs a better hinge and latch system. Also it is extremely heavy. From the side profile I always thought it looked funny because of the gap between the tire and the trunk where there is literally nothing. Although i preferred the look of it from behind. The tire being angle and sitting much higher just looks awesome. I was thinking I might still use it when I got on trips where I need to carry Jerry cans.

 

4- I thought of an angled mount but don't think it would work or look good where it sits low and up against the flat part of the trunk. But I thought about moving it up a bit higher on the mount to give it a bit better departure angle and it would look better IMO. Would be easy to do too. Just drill 4 holes in the mount that actually holds the tire and move it up an few cm. Although you would get close to the edge of the material which might fail. So an extension may need to be welded on if I go that route.

 

5- There actually is plenty of room for the light guards. One close up pic looks tight because there is a roll of electrical tape between the carrier and guard that I used as spacer to situate the carrier. Like you see I too have the plastic guards on and like I said, no problem with the light guards.

 

 

 

 

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Tonight I finalized the carrier mod by relocating the license plate.

 

First I removed the door card to gain access and assess whether it was safe to drill into the trunk or not.

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By now drilling into my truck doesn't seem like a big deal anymore, that cherry is popped. Besides, I can always get a new trunk form a JY!

So the area was clear to drill. I then located the power source for the OE license plate lights. One of mine stopped working and the screws are so rusted that an attempt at removing the covers stripped the screws. So screw it!

 

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Then I checked the placement again for the license plate and made sure it was level. Then drilled. Since I used rivets for the carrier and had some left over, this was the perfect opportunity to use them.

 

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Then I mounted the light, fed the wires through and connected them. Since our trunk isn't flat, I used a spacer to offset the difference so the plate can sit flush.

 

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I used some leak seal inside of the trunk to prevent moisture form creeping in.

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And the final product:

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Sent from my Pathfinder

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And, I bought a Hi-Lift. I was looking around for DIY mounts and even the Yakima mount, which costs a ridiculous $125. Then I took a good hard look and found a $4 solution! U-bolts! Since I bought the 60" version, it sits perfectly on the roof rack rails. Just needed something to secure it.

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Might get smaller U-bolts, but the concept is solid!

 

 

Sent from my Pathfinder

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