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What am I getting myself into? Advice needed.


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A friend and are heading out on the WABDR (Washington Backcountry Discovery Route) that goes from Oregon to Canada at the end of the month. We have a stock 1987 Pathfinder with 250K+ and some funds to make it a little more trail worthy.

 

We already verified that the larger wheels and tires from my 2001 DD Pathfinder will bolt on.

 

Sounds like we can get a cheap lift from cranking the torsion bars and using coil spacers?

 

Any other suggestions?

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If it's auto, a transmission cooler's a good idea.

 

Yes, you can do a cheap lift via T-bar crank. IIRC Fleurys is working on rear spring spacers for the WD21. The other option is Jeep springs with the pigtails cut off (there are a few threads around of people talking about which ones give the most lift). I think most people swap out the rear shocks while they're at it for better flex.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that the steering arrangement in these starts bending things when lifted, so an idler arm brace is probably a good idea. I'd also check on/replace the strut rod bushings. If they're original, and they have 250k plus on them, they're more than likely shot. If the rods they support rub on the frame long enough they can wear through.

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engine in top running order? spare fuel? are the brakes up to it? tools and spare belts/hoses/ fluid, shovel/ chainsaw , recovery gear?

how challenging is this trail anyway? just a gravel road or a mule track?

either way sounds like fun.

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I'd also change all the fluids too if you are unsure of the history of oil changes. Get the brakes looked at while you get the wheel alignment done, get all the rubber bushings replaced if they are stuffed. You could easily spend a cool grand getting all that done but it's worth it instead of losing your brakes while going down a steep hill.

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Take some TRE's, Ive bent and snapped a couple and was glad I had a few with me.

spare CV's

obviously extra fluids

maybe a spare alternator and belts

I would run purple ice

Pull the sway bars if your doing a torsion crank

Check the differential fluids

Im sure there is a lot you could do, I guess it depends on how rough this trail is. If it were me I would lock the diffs, get a winch and bring a F ton of recovery gear, just my opinion.

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Thanks guys, I'll be looking into the fluids/ general vehicle health for sure.

 

The route is a mixed bag of pavement, smooth gravel, dirt and 4x4 trails. I'll be joining for two legs from Naches, WA to Ellensburg, WA and Ellensburg, WA to Cashmere, WA. I've ridden a majority of the terrain on a Dual Sported XR400R but this will be my first time taking a car over it. The group is in various Jeeps, Toyotas, (even a Lexus J80). We have a lot of recovery gear and experience on how to use it but only one rear hitch mounted winch (on the Lexus no less).

 

The car is a manual, internal spare tire carrier with temporary spare (I'm throwing in my R50 Spare in place of).

 

What about the Auto Hubs? Reliable enough? I have some Drive Flanges from my R50, will they bolt on?

 

If it sounds like I don't know what I'm doing then you are right, but that's part of the fun with this trip. ;)

 

Wheel test fit:

20140617_212150.jpg

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I dont recall there being flanges up to 1995 ish the whole spindle might bolt up though. Auto hubs are ok, just go slow when going from fwd to reverse so you don't bang them and snap a cv. Is that winch on a carrier that can go from vehicle to vehicle? Your tow hitch is super low which will inhibit your departure angle so try not to drop on it. lol. I bent the crap out of mine. So I put it in-between the frame.

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I think the drive flanges would fit, if your WD's CV shafts are 28 spline. If they're 27 spline (I don't remember when the change over happened, but I think it was later) then you're SOL. I remember a few people selling 27 spline hubs fairly cheap, having mistaken them for 28s at the wrecking yard, so maybe you could score some that way.

 

Have you tested the autos? I'll be surprised if they still work at that mileage. Mine crapped out around 171k; they were always temperamental, and when I tried to service one of them, it bound up and started half-disengaging and grinding like mad when I drove in 2x. The clutches inside were worn way past tolerance. If you don't mind mucking around with the snap rings, I imagine you could pull an auto hub apart, pull out the bit that engages, engage it by force with pliers, wipe the grease out, and then re-install it with JB weld instead of grease.

 

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I was looking at manual hubs today and they list different spline counts between the '87 and the '01, Bummer. I will be bringing some JB weld, I'll keep that in mind if we get in a bind. From what I can tell the automatic hubs are functioning well for now but I've had them go bad on me on another car right when I needed it.

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Don't get the Mile Marker ones

 

 

 

How did you manage that?!?! I love my MM hubs. Never had an issue though I dont go and try to put it in a bind at full throttle. Have had issues with every WARN product Ive been around, especially Ford hubs.

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I had the Warn hubs on my old 94 pathfinder, never took it 4 wheeling but I bought them from a junkyard, when I took them apart I needed a few parts, I e-mailed Warn and told them what I needed and that I bought them from a junkyard, they didn't care that i bought them used, the guy replied asking what I needed, I told him and they sent the parts out for free !! Not many companies will stand behind their products like that, especially when it's not even the original purchaser.

 

Customer service like that will make me buy Warn again. I Don't know if Milemarker would do the same.

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I had the Warn hubs on my old 94 pathfinder, never took it 4 wheeling but I bought them from a junkyard, when I took them apart I needed a few parts, I e-mailed Warn and told them what I needed and that I bought them from a junkyard, they didn't care that i bought them used, the guy replied asking what I needed, I told him and they sent the parts out for free !! Not many companies will stand behind their products like that, especially when it's not even the original purchaser.

 

Customer service like that will make me buy Warn again. I Don't know if Milemarker would do the same.

 

I can speak from experience that MM doesn't, I was out on some rocks when that happened, I called and talked to a representative and was given an email to send a pic and the receipt copy to. I was told to parts would get sent out. A week later, no email confirmation and to parts. Over the six months following that I sent three or four emails to the link on their page and the one given to me. No response. I called and repeated the process with another rep and still no parts or responses. Now i have the D44 so whatever

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Honestly probably the one overlooked thing you'll need is, a good tow strap. I would say which but that's a heavy investment. The wd21 are extremely capable, with tires, manual hubs, and tbar crank, you'll make it a lot places. I have owned a set of MM but never used em since the path got wreaked, however if you were a month earlier I could have sold you my factory manual hubs off my 87 hardbody but that's gone now :( that is another cheap option for hubs, find an HB 4x4 I'm not sure what year was the cut off but atlease 90 and under have 27 spline hubs and the 4x4 HB come stock with selectable hubs. Anyways good luck

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  • 6 months later...

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