elbpf Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 93 Pathfinder 4x4 MT I need to replace the oil pan gasket cause I did the gasket wrong the first time. I'm hoping I don't have to remove the flywheel and the plate that sits between the trans and engine? Does anyone know if I can drop the pan without going through that? If you want some background, I rebuilt the engine and was a little hasty putting the gasket on. I also wanted to be extra cautious so I put a little too much gasket maker in the corners where it meets the rubber end gaskets. Lesson learned the hard way unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 The flywheel stays but the diff has to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 (edited) I'd buy a new truck before having to remove and install a front diff in one of these things again. Edit: This post not meant to discourage you in any way, but it such a bear! Edited June 6, 2014 by silverton 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 It does kind of suck a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 what he said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 (edited) I learned my lesson early and started reversing the LCA bolts. Sure makes the diff job easier the next time around. Funny thing is that I only had to grind them shorter on my WD21 and not on the D21. Both had the VG30. You guys are Edit: You don't really have to grind the bolts down. Extra washers on the front side of the bolt will do the trick. Seriously though, F*** pulling that front diff. Edited June 6, 2014 by KovemaN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbpf Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 Awesome, thanks for all the info. I actually was able to pull the diff. out alright. I know what you mean about those LCA bolts needing to be reversed but I was able to avoid taking that off altogether. I had to drop one of my torsion bars and it scraped the oil pan a little but other then that it rolled right out. I'm struggling to get the oil pan to separate from the block so I thought it was the plate in front of the flywheel that was getting in the way. Any tricks for getting the oil pan off with damaging stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 I'd use a big flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet, just go around the edge slowly and don't hit too hard, once you get one edge loose, you should be able to get a couple of fingers in the edge to pry it loose but I advise having an old pillow or something soft for it to land on, just in case it does fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 The pans are usually stuck on these motors pretty well. It seals at both the front and rear main seals with lots more glue than around the sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Try and avoid sticking anything between the pan and the block, the FSM says to avoid damaging this seal area. Best to use a rubber mallet to slowly work around tapping the pan on curved spots so it doesnt dent or bend anything and once it starts to break free slightly, you will be able to use your hands to pry the pan off. You can use a plastic pry bar between the pan and block but i wouldnt use a screw driver personally. Best to avoid causing further weak points for leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 I found a metal 1" wide plaster scraper dealy worked well. Very thin and sharp but wide enough it won't gouge anything or bend the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Nice, yeah I use these strong plastic interior panel removers. They are basically a construction cats paw made out of plastic. Got a whole kit of them on ebay for like 8 bucks when I purchased all the tools to remove and replace auto glass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 I found a metal 1" wide plaster scraper dealy worked well. Very thin and sharp but wide enough it won't gouge anything or bend the pan. Putty knife for sure, I personally just unbolted the engine and lifted it up enough to slide the pan out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 I'm leaking some oil. Was planning on dropping the pan. Now you are making me think twice & just deal with the leak. What about just removing the cross member & dropping it? Hell, I might as well just yank the whole damn motor out & replace with a small block 350 :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manik Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 I'm thinking GM 4.8L, 5 spd trans and an atlas transfer case. I guy can dream can't he. ::snoring:: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manik Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 After a SAS of course. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now