rust prohibitor called "rust bullet" anybody know this product?

[bushnut]

I'm curious about this product, has anybody used it and to what result.

 

I figure it is no better than anything else. but hey why not try. though I'll wait until I get more info.

 

Thanks Guys,

[level9]

Are you wanting a comparison of Rust Bullet vs. other MCUs (moisture cured urethanes) or just curious about MCUs like POR-15, Master Series, Rust Bullet, etc. in general vs other types of rust prohibitive products?

 

I haven't used RB specifically, but can say that MCUs in general are great. They are typically used for high wear and abuse public infrastructure like bridges, subways, etc. Tough, chemical resistant, scratch resistant, chip resistant, elastic, compatible with any top coat and the silver versions are non porous and contain aluminum flake/powder. Basically, pretty much everything one could ever want in a paint when it comes to durability. The only catch is they must be applied under the proper conditions and with good prep work; these kinds of paints are absolutely unforgiving in that regard.

[bushnut]

http://www.rustbullet.com/aboutus.asp?SectionID=16

 

here's a link they say that applications is simple and needs little prep work.....thats what I have trouble believing, sounds almost to good to be true.

[level9]

http://www.rustbullet.com/aboutus.asp?SectionID=16

 

here's a link they say that applications is simple and needs little prep work.....thats what I have trouble believing, sounds almost to good to be true.

 

Minimal prep work is kind of relative. Minimal compared to a normal body shop job which almost always involves removing ALL rust by media blasting, sanding, etc. to bring everything down to bare metal? If you are a DIY home guy and don't have the large job tools, space or time, sure..

 

but the marketing droids make it sound like it's almost as easy as clean and paint and that's definitely not true either..

 

The only reasonably high durability paint coating that requires minimal prep that I'm aware of is 2k Epoxy, but I've never seen anyone recommend it over rust; so this applies only to new metal or overpainting.

 

 

As far as MCUs like RB are concerned..

 

If you check around the various forums on the interwebs you will see people have paint failures with nearly any MCU based product. Personally, I've never had an MCU failure (exception for testing).. the thing to keep in mind is..

 

MCUs like surfaces with tooth. Rough surfaces are best and generally the rougher the better. If you are going to paint something that's completely covered in rust - this is the best surface for a MCU. Wire wheel any loose rust first. Then degrease and DRY - not 'it looks and feels dry to me' or 'i left it for a couple of days in the sun' - I mean HEAT GUN 212+ degrees BONE DRY. Then paint. The MCU will never come off and your understanding of PERMANENT paint will be forever altered

 

If you are painting something that perhaps is partly rusted but has areas of original paint and/or metal, then you really need to knock off the loose rust and also rough up the painted and/or metal surfaces as well - which means sanding with a low grit (60-150 typically) or media blasting (sand, alum oxide or another media that etches). Then degrease, DRY and paint. Adhesion in this case is less than an all rusted surface but still excellent.

 

RB and other MCU brands will recommend a metal prep for bare metal. This is to etch the metal to provide tooth and/or to neutralize the rust. Nothing wrong with this but I consider it insufficient (failures in testing). I sand or media blast the surface anyway, then also use a metal prep product.

 

Some other MCU painting tips:

- 2 coats minimum. THIN coats.

- Silver is preferable for the first coat (aluminum flake/powder moisture barrier)

- Top coat with a (preferably polyurethane) based paint (with UV inhibitors if exposed to sun). Some people leave off a top coat without issue, but industrial grade scenarios always require a top coat

- Apply in the lowest humidity possible (less than 50% but I prefer 25-35% max) - you want a LONG cure time; otherwise you may have adhesion failures and/or surface bubbling/blemishes. Don't rely on your local weather station for humidity readings either - get a hygrometer.

- don't get any on you or anything else you don't want permanently painted

- wear a NIOSH approved respirator* when painting

- if you spray it, wear a full paint suit and most recommend a forced-air breathing system*

 

* NOTE: RB says their isocyanates (toxic) are 'safe' but color me skeptical on that claim.

 

It's also worth noting that no MCU vendor recommends painting over existing paint. If the existing paint fails, the MCU will go with it, naturally, but that's not the MCU's fault..

 

Personally, for my Pathy, I have painted MCUs over the existing paint. I actually DON'T want to remove the old paint, at least on the body (unless it's failing or rust bubbles underneath). The reason being: the Pathy body is zinc electroplated steel and also has a phosphate coating and electrodeposition primer (at least for 1990+, not sure about earlier). Great stuff for anti-corrosion and realistically not easily replaceable.

[bushnut]

well there goes my idea of painting this stuff on with a brush in the drive way......

thanks for all the info, if you can recommend any product that I can apply outside or with minimal tools (no shop and I'm not looking for a show room finish. I just want my pathy to last as long as possible.

[level9]

well there goes my idea of painting this stuff on with a brush in the drive way......

thanks for all the info, if you can recommend any product that I can apply outside or with minimal tools (no shop and I'm not looking for a show room finish. I just want my pathy to last as long as possible.

 

What are you looking to paint? If you are talking about engine bay/components, frame, suspension and other non visible areas, that should not be a problem as you don't care too much about how it looks (some bubbling, visible brush strokes, etc. is fine). Just paint on a reasonably non-humid day.

 

If you are talking about the body, then any surface defects will show up through a topcoat and you really want a more controlled environment. I usually paint in my garage with the door closed using a brush, respirator and a dehumidifier running on full blast.

[adamzan]

Try DOM 16 it is apparently like por15 but much cheaper. Apparently canadian made too. You can get it at napa.

[Precise1]

Or LAM 17, it is like DOM 16 but much cheaper. Apparently Mexico made it too. You can get it in front of Home Depot...

 

(just a joke!)

 

B

[sroeser01]

I have used duplicolor bed liner with Kevlar with excellent results here in the tough north east USA with the salt. No problems at all. There is prep work tho and I did a few extra coats. Just my experience tho. Hope it helps up there In the great north

[bushnut]

thanks guys, I'll post pics as soon as I start on the work.