ferrariowner123 Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 (edited) So here is another project that i have had long in the works and now that all the parts are together, i am in need of some advice. I want to put this AWESOME NX1600 Digital cluster into the dash of my pathfinder Before you ask, im going Dakota digital to get speed and Tacho working, the NX and the pathy share the same coolant sensor and for whatever reason my early pathfinder is different i have an NX one, and it uses the same plug as the pathfinder. The only thing i haven't figured out is the fuel gauge, that will be my next task once i figure out how to make this whole thing work. Now I've got most of the tricky stuff figured out, thanks to some helpfully wiring guru's over on Zilvia.net. i just had a couple of questions on what the heck certain wires do. First is some of the pathfinders wiring, What exactly are pins 15 and 11? it shoes that 15 goes to the speedo and 11 goes to illumination but as what? ground or power? i'm really not sure... The wiring colors aren't much help, pin 11 is pink and green, and 15 is white and black Here is my service manual reference photo. Also, you may notice that pathy has 1 illumination +, 1 illumination ground, and 1 ignition wire, The NX has SIX COUNT THEM SIX!! grounds ranging from high beam light ground, shared turn signal ground, a general ground, 2 illumination grounds, and a speed sensor ground. And has 3 ignition wires (Which i'm assuming act as power? ) and finally 2 illumination positive's, one for the back lighting and indicator lights and one for the digital unit itself. My question is, can i run all of the six grounds to one nice thick gauge wire and then ground it on the steering column or something? Also since the NX is going to need more power than the pathfinder cluster, can i run all of the ignitions to a relay and then use the pathfinder ignition as trigger? AND can i run the illuminations off that same relay? or is it better to run a second with the pathy illumination acting as trigger? Thanks for the help. -Kyle P.S. it does "Fit" in the stock location, just needs some massaging to get it to fit right. Edited May 27, 2014 by ferrariowner123 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 Oh forgot one thing, The NX cluster has a wire that iv'e labeled, "Ignition with ACC ON". Are any of you aware of a wire that can act like this behind the dash, like immediately to the cluster, or am i running my cigarette lighter up there for a trigger? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 *makes "airplane over head" gesture * 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo94 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 If you know the ohm range for the fuel guage then all you need to do is get a universal fuel sender to match that range. The fuel sender is usually adjustable in length to suit different sized fuel tanks so you can get a proper reading and so the pickup can reach the bottom of the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 If you know the ohm range for the fuel guage then all you need to do is get a universal fuel sender to match that range. The fuel sender is usually adjustable in length to suit different sized fuel tanks so you can get a proper reading and so the pickup can reach the bottom of the tank. Good idea, but do you have a suggestion as to how to have it installed? Because i was able to find some thing out,(All info provided from FSM's) NX fuel sending unit stats Full ~ 12 Ω 1/2 ~ 33Ω 0 ~ 76Ω Pathfinder Full ~ 4-6Ω 1/2 ~ 30-34Ω 0 ~ 80-83Ω And single cam 240sx's that people say work fine (1989-90 MY) Full ~ 4.3-6.3Ω 1/2 ~ 27.7-34.3Ω 0 ~ 73.3-84.8Ω People also report it working on later model S13's (1991-1994 MY) Full ~ 4.3-5.8Ω 1/2 ~ 27.7-34.3Ω 0 ~ 78.3-84.8Ω So i think i may just try it and see when my fuel light comes on, I usually am touching or on "E" when i hit 230 miles to the tank, so i guess that will be my metric to go off of. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 Anyone else? i need some help guys. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 White/black is generally power on a Nissan. That diagram does indeed suck. I would say add add a small dropping resistor to the fuel gauge but I see you might fix full but the rest will be further off. The IGN with ACC ON sounds like it activates the gauge cluster when you flip the key one turn. I would think that's up to you if you want it to do that or not. I see no issue with running the 6 grounds to a common path. None at all. Where is the voltage regulator for the cluster? Built in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 White/black is generally power on a Nissan. That diagram does indeed suck. I would say add add a small dropping resistor to the fuel gauge but I see you might fix full but the rest will be further off. The IGN with ACC ON sounds like it activates the gauge cluster when you flip the key one turn. I would think that's up to you if you want it to do that or not. I see no issue with running the 6 grounds to a common path. None at all. Where is the voltage regulator for the cluster? Built in? I agree with the power. I found someone on Texas Nissan's who put a full run down on how to install it into a 240,and he put the same pin as ign or power. And tell me about it! Yeah, I think I'm just gonna leave it. It's close but the fact that a ton of people say it works is good enough for me. Lol Yeah probably I probably want that. I really want to retain as much of the original functions as possible, so I'll probably run a line up for the cigarette lighter, if that will work as that? And on the grounds. Even the VSS and all that wold be fine sharing a ground? Just as long as it's a good solid ground, Like the steering colum? And voltage regulator? I have no idea, I'm assuming so, I have read no mention of it on the treads for the 240sx swaps. Thanks for the help. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo94 Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 (edited) You could always run an aftermarket fuel gauge that matches your factory ohm range, but it would be neater to have the dash gauge work properly. Edited May 31, 2014 by Leo94 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 You could always run an aftermarket fuel gauge that matches your factory ohm range, but it would be neater to have the dash gauge work properly. Yeah, I'm going to try my hardest to keep that. I just need another set of S13 plugs before I can try and see if the new Custer even works. And I bought another digital cluster too. I think I'm going to try and wire these for S13's and make some extra side money (saving up for a skyline). But after the preliminary test just Ned to order the Dakota Digital parts, make a board to mount them, and hack up my dash (may have a pro do this, not sure yet.) and she's done. I did find another thing out about my ignition wiring. Somebody has all three ignitions running to one ignition on the car. Is there any worry of putting too much current through the wiring? -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 I would say most of the load would be on your ign relay. If i were doin something like this, i would make the acc, activate the wipers, heater controls dash lights and such. the on position would kick the fuel pump and the ign would just be when u engage the starter. If you run it correctly the load will be on the relays and not directly on the wiring to your dash. Lookin at the frappy wiring diagram, pin 11, it looks like it may go to the brightness control nob of your cluster. pin 15. /shrug. i would hit it with my multi meter to see if it were hot when the key was in the on position. sorry i couldnt be of more help Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteyPathy Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 Judging by little piece of diagram, 15 is ign power, you don't normally find diodes in ground legs. See how it doesn't go just to speedo but joins line going across top that connects to every sensor? Pin 23 is ground it looks like, for speedo, temp, and fuel. To tell more I'd have to see more complete wiring diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Judging by how many things it is connecting together 15 could very well be ground, and all the other pins on the bottom side of the diagram are where the actual "hot" comes from when the said light is activated. It seems logical. Unless all of that stuff is activated by the bottom side being individually grounded by the ecu which dont really seem likely. "shrug" i didnt really wanna venture a guess without more information, is why i said meter it. but if i had to guess ^ Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteyPathy Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Judging by how many things it is connecting together 15 could very well be ground, and all the other pins on the bottom side of the diagram are where the actual "hot" comes from when the said light is activated. It seems logical. Unless all of that stuff is activated by the bottom side being individually grounded by the ecu which dont really seem likely. "shrug" i didnt really wanna venture a guess without more information, is why i said meter it. but if i had to guess ^ Pat Gotta disagree Pat, no way 15 is ground it leads to diodes which are NEVER in ground wire. Remember those sensors use very little voltage operate based on resistance. I don't know about this instance but most vehicle sensors use between 3 and 5 volts, max power in ECU is 5 volts. Pins on "bottom" are the outbound and return for the gauges that much is clear, sensors don't generally use ground because where they are attached is automatically a ground. Just need two wires to make an ohm reading circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Not really. If you trace a Nissan harness you will find many of the sensors are grounded through wiring, usually common. Same with the power side. Usually 12V+. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 (edited) It could go either way, and if there is a diode in the circuit u have to have a ground somewhere to complete the circuit. usually u can tell hot side by which way the diode is facing " depending of course on the type of diode". However sometimes diodes are used as a safety measure to keep an electronic failure "like a shorted sensor" from hurting something important so that isnt 100 percent. The only way i would give factual information on this is to grab my meter go out to the truck and meter it. So i just gave my opinion based on my experience and what i was looking at on the diagram. My electronics experience is extensive, automotive electronics, not so much, but wiring is wiring and electronics is electronics. Like i said before, a good way to know for sure is meter it. was just throwing in my 6 cents (inflation) on the matter. I may meter it this weekend just out of curiosity if nothing else, if i can find the time. Don't get me wrong, you disagreeing with me doesn't bother me at all, every man is entitled to their opinion. It is interesting if nothing else trying to make heads or tails of a half arsed wiring diagram. Kyle you can pick up a basic multi meter for 6 to 20 dollars depending on where you are. If you are doing any kind of electrical i recommend it highly. If nothing else grab a 5 / 12 v test light or something. it will make your life so much easier. ;P Anyways, have a good 1, hope you get it figured out Pat Edited June 6, 2014 by fixinto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Ok, here is the skinny of it. 15 is +V and ground in that area is 23 / 35. If you scroll up a page from where u were in the manual that page tells you about the speedo and some other stuff. As far as using one relay... /shrug depends on the relay current rating. I would put the illum on the current relay for that in your truck. if it burns the relay up, get a large rated one =) Took a little digging but ...there u go. Its after midnight, im hitting the sack. " still more fun speculating" hehe anywho. Hope you get your mod done, its pretty cool Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 So much to talk about, I'm just going to say, that I agree with your pin outs, pin 23 is a ground for the speed sensor, it was only giving like 1.09 volts, so it's obviously some sort of sensor, and pin 23 is connected to the speed sensor, and the troubleshooting says pin 23 is the ground for the speed sensor. But I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow and to get some 240sx plugs that site behind the cluster and connector the cluster to body harness, so that I can quickly and easily switch from cluster to cluster, I just need to get another set of pins, the 240 has the EXACT same amount of plus needed to make the stock cluster wire up, and make the new cluster work no problem. So it should (in theory), be plug and play. I'll post up if I get the thing working. It should be some time this week if I get the connectors I need tomorrow. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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