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Has Anyone Done A Brake Upgrade


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WD21 disk swaps aren't difficult because there are original disk brake axles out there to swap in. But as far as I can tell, the R50 only ever had rear drum brakes, so the swap would have to be from a different vehicle.

 

I dont know how much work you want to do but here is what I was talking about

 

http://nissannut.com/projects/H233b_disc_brakes/

Edited by Mauitrailguy
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WD21 disk swaps aren't difficult because there are original disk brake axles out there to swap in. But as far as I can tell, the R50 only ever had rear drum brakes, so the swap would have to be from a different vehicle.

 

I dont know how much work you want to do but here is what I was talking about

 

http://nissannut.com/projects/H233b_disc_brakes/

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Different Spline Count. R50 = 33 spline, WD21= 31 spline. Best option is likely to press the backing plates off and use the R-50 axles like in NissanNut's article.

 

No I mean take the whole rear axle housing and all. Disconnect the control arms and move the whole thing over out of a pathfinder that has the options you want.

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I need to do this myself. I haven't been able to find a disk brake axle wd21 though. I have two axles in my shop and both are drum brakes. For us WD21 guys couldn't we just buy the disk brake parts and bolt them to our axle? I'm going to put a cage in my truck and with the added weight I need this thing to stop better than it does.

Edited by The_Magicians_Eye
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Pull the whole disc axle if possible. Otherwise, you can just unbolt the backing plates from the donor housing and pull the whole axle shaft out. Make sure to pull the third member and remove the thrust block if you're swapping disc axles into a drum housing or the axles won't seat fully.

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Thanks Tom. So the actual axle shafts are different? Same spline or different too? So in theory I should be able to buy new disk brakek axle shafts, new thrust block (whatever that is lol), new backing plates, and then all the disk brake components and it should all bolt together and work?

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The shafts are nearly identical. The spline count and diameter are the same, but the length is very slightly different (disc are longer). I would pull used if possible, but all new disc components will bolt to a housing that was originally fitted with drum brakes. The thrust block is ONLY FOR DRUM BRAKES. The disc axles have a different bearing at the backing plate that allows them to operate as a full floater as opposed to a semi-float like the drum axles. Call me if you need any more clarification.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a 87 pathy with drums in the rear. I found a 88 pathy with disk in the rear. I pulled the axles out of the 87 and 88 and swaped them over with no problems. You need to find the same years of suv like 86-89 wd21 90-95 wd21 same with the d21 trucks or r50.

You will need to change the brake lines and e brake line will need to be removed and reinstalled with other e brake line on the new axles. It's easy to do if you like to work lol. Make sure you have the engine running when bleeding the brakes so you don't get air in it and it's a vacuum set up so remmber that. You will not get a hard brake if the engine is not running. It's more work to swap the hole axle housing if you ask me.

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  • 1 year later...

I have a 87 pathy with drums in the rear. I found a 88 pathy with disk in the rear. I pulled the axles out of the 87 and 88 and swaped them over with no problems. You need to find the same years of suv like 86-89 wd21 90-95 wd21 same with the d21 trucks or r50.

You will need to change the brake lines and e brake line will need to be removed and reinstalled with other e brake line on the new axles. It's easy to do if you like to work lol. Make sure you have the engine running when bleeding the brakes so you don't get air in it and it's a vacuum set up so remmber that. You will not get a hard brake if the engine is not running. It's more work to swap the hole axle housing if you ask me.

 

I'm considering a hydro boost upgrade http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35946-chevy-master-cylinder-upgrade/.

 

You mention having the engine running to bleed the brakes. I've not seen anything that says that is mandatory. Anyone else know if it is necessary to have the engine running during the bleeding process?

 

Given most the wD21's are going on a quarter century or more, I haven't done it yet, but with a little modification by elongating the mounting holes slightly, the Wilwood D154 dual piston (they have a rear specific version) calipers may be a great upgrade option. The specifications for this part, on a quick glance, I think might work.

 

If anyone gets to it it before I do, it would be nice to confirm this, as I'm sure there's a lot of OEM rear disc owners around.

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My friend's Chevy van has hydroboost. It works, but it does have an odd pedal feel and it seems to contribute to heating up the power steering fluid. He managed to boil it once, but it was 110° that day and he was working the system pretty hard. We're actually planning to rebuild or replace it soon because it's started to leak.

 

I don't know why you'd need a running engine to bleed brakes. :scratchhead:

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Are the leaks from the hydro boost, or the MC? Been doing some research and the guys that love their hydro boost acknowledge there's extra things to do, like a oil cooler, and upgrading the steering pump, to make it work.

 

It would seem if going the hydro boost route, be prepared to upgrade the weak parts in the system, and if its done right, you get the better performance.

 

 

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