Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

Updating Cams when changing timing belt?


headpeace
 Share

Recommended Posts

Has anyone put in the 94-95 cams when changing their timing belt so you could use the longer lasting 90k mile belt? Is this possible? I assume that it is, I'll be changing mine soon and would like to be able to do this.

Edited by headpeace
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yep, according to my VIN my 93 was only about a month off from getting the round tooth

My wifes truck was in the same boat. But she's running round tooth too. Don't pry on the Crank gear, Get a good grip on it and pull straight back on it. While pulling rapidy tap on the end of the crank snout with a hammer. This is how I have pulled every Crank gear on every nissan I have ever worked on. The rusty ones take longer but it gets there eventually.

Other than that Its a very straight foward swap and don't forget to do your camseals and crank seal.

 

Stay away from Victor Reninz cam seals. I had my left and right cam seals leaking after 7k miles.

 

Gates, SKF and NSK are good.

But be careful, SKF has started selling other seals under their label. An SKF made seal will have SKF printed directly on the seal and usually comes in a small cardboard box. Their re-badged seals (unkown make) do not say SKF on them but come sealed in a SKF bag.

Edited by MY1PATH
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My crank gear slipped right off, no tapping needed.

 

I don't believe you need to swap cams, just the cam gears and crank pulley. Its also 105k miles on the interval.

Bingo! You have to pull the gears to change the cam/crank seals anyway so it really isn't any extra work at all.

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a neat trick I learned to keep from turning the cam shafts while taking loose or tightening the cam gear bolt.

 

- Find a large socket that fits snuggly in the large holes of the cam gear.

- Attach breaker bar

- Find socket that fits cam gear bolt.

- Attach ratchet/breaker bar.

- Loosening Right Cam Gear (as facing engine):

* Insert large socket into hole of cam gear closest to 3o'clock.

* Aim breaker bar towards the 9o'clock position and to go just below the cam bolt

* Put cam gear bolt socket with ratchet/breaker on cam gear bolt. Ratchet/breaker arm to go towards 9o'clock also, but above other breaker.

* Push down on ratchet/breaker with cam bear bolt socket and pull up a breaker with large socket.

* The breaker with large socket needs to hit the side of the cam gear socket for this to work.

The closer to the bolt head end the better (i.e less chance to flip the cam gear socket off the bolt head.

- Loosening Left Left Cam Gear

* Same as Right except positions are flipped and the large socket breaker arm goes above the cam gear bolt head.

- Tightening Either Gear

* Same positions as loosening, but position of larger socket breaker arm is swapped. If below for loosening than above for tightening and vice versa.

 

It's been a few years since I actually did this so I'm going from memory and figuring it out in my head. I know it worked much better than trying wedge something against the thin housing as I think the service manual suggested.

 

 

 

Edited by andreus009
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...