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clutch master bleeding


str8andnarrwpath
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Had a bad leak, thought it was the slave,replaced it............ suprise still leaking inside on the floor. replaced clutch master & bled & bled. pedal is still soggy? & the travel is less than before or it engages later.

Got cold & called it a night. i think it needs adj at the rod & maybe more bleeding? anyone have a super secret tip?

 

thanks

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Did you bench bleed the master before installing it? Very important. Also, did you bleed the dampner if its still hooked up? If that's all good and you're sure there's no air in the system, then look in to adjusting the rod per the FSM. Some of the aftermarket master cylinders have a rod that isn't cut/threaded right so the adjustment can be a royal pain in the ass.

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Pretty much when you adjust the rod adjust it till there's no play, then back it off half a turn. When it comes to bleeding the clutch I didn't have to bleed the dampener because terranos don't have them, so what I did (with a helper to pump the pedal) was:

  1. Top off the reservoir
  2. Pump the clutch 4 times and hold on the 4th
  3. Crack open the Master cylinder bleeder valve with a CLEAR tube on it leading into a clear container, make sure it makes a tight seal around the bleeder valve
  4. Close the valve and release the pedal after and ONLY after you have closed the valve and repeat till there is no more air coming through the line.

If you are still getting air through the bleeder your master cylinder, hydraulic lines or bleeder valve might be defected (I would recommend rebuilding or buying a oem nissan master/slave)

I would recommend you just bypass the dampener and then just follow the same above steps but for the slave cylinder afterwards, otherwise as stated above bleed the dampener after the slave cylinder

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