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The final word on lifting the R50 at a low Cost


fleurys
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It is exactly 31.6". But some tires like the km2 , will give 31.7... You find this on any tire calculator online on check the specs of tires with these numbers

 

 

 

 

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Hi, very interesting and easy setup, only questions I have is after installing this, what are all the on the side mods that must be done.

 

Im just asking cause last time I jacked a truck, it started out with a simple 1000 kit and ended up costing 2000 lol.. I just don't want aftermath surprises .

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Hi, very interesting and easy setup, only questions I have is after installing this, what are all the on the side mods that must be done. 

 

Im just asking cause last time I jacked a truck, it started out with a simple 1000 kit and ended up costing 2000 lol..  I just don't want aftermath surprises .  

None .

 

 

 

 

 

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I am getting 235/85R16 (31.7 inches) to fit my stock rims, and I wonder what is the smallest lift I can get to fit these tire ?

 

I would like to go for the smaller lift to reduce stress on the truck.

 

Thanks

 

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I am getting 235/85R16 (31.7 inches) to fit my stock rims, and I wonder what is the smallest lift I can get to fit these tire ?

 

I would like to go for the smaller lift to reduce stress on the truck.

 

Thanks

 

Hard to tell .. depending on the amount your existing coils are collapsed or not. The truck on my pictures (web site) runs 31.7" tires with the 2" spacers lift kit front and rear... With this you should be ok, but it's not an exact science...

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right now i have 1.5" spacers on the front and 1.75" in the rear i am able to fit 32" tires on a 15" rim and i rub at full crank i want to put 33" tires as they are cheaper than 32" tires (more common size than 32") i am thinking off doing a 2" sfd and keep the 1.5 spacers in the front so i would end up with a total of 3.5" of lift.

 

im wondering would 3.5" of lift be enough to fit 33"s (i dont mind rubbing at full crank) and should i get a over all 3.5" spacer for the front or use a 2" spacer and the 1.5" spacer i already have? i have the solid polyurethane ones from a member on here so would i be able to put fleurys spaces on top of the ones i have? (i know when you block lift a older solid axle with leaf springs its bad ju ju to do multiple blocks but not sure about this)

 

last week i tried to fit 33" tires on 16"rims that my buddy has and they fit in the wheel well i just couldent turn more than one rotaion of the steering wheel ( i ripped the mud flap off the driver front fender :suicide: )

Edited by thorpe991
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I am getting 235/85R16 (31.7 inches) to fit my stock rims, and I wonder what is the smallest lift I can get to fit these tire ?

 

I would like to go for the smaller lift to reduce stress on the truck.

 

Thanks

 

Stioc has that tire size on a 2" AC lift, but had to do fender flare trimming to make them fit with some 1" wheel spacers.

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Just depends on actual tire width at the strut perch. I know when my Cooper STT were new. They just barely cleared. So any taller would require a spacer.

Check Stoic thread on expedition portal. He's updated that one more often. I know he changed tire size recently and I think he took the spacers off. But he's running a 245 or maybe even a 235 wide tire now. But taller a full 32" tall.

 

Sent from my Moto X

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey there,

 

this is my first post on this forum but I have been bumming around different posts for a while. I just installed the 4x4designs wheel spacers (2" front and back) and I also have medium duty coils in the front that give about a 0.5" lift in the front with stock length KYB struts, and medium duty coils in the back as well both ordered from 4x4parts.com. Anyways, after installing the spacers, I went for a test drive and it sounds like my CV axles are about to explode. In 2wd under full throttle it feels like a death wobble but coming from the front, and in 4wd even under mild acceleration it feels like the whole front end it about to fall off. Same thing under full lock when turning, it starts jumping. I do not have warn locking hubs. When I was installing them and the suspension was under full droop, the axles would lock up and I couldn't spin the wheels. The one thing is that I haven't gotten an alignment yet nor did I instal camber bolts. Will getting an alignment solve this problem or will I have to take out one of the spacers to reduce the angle on the axles? Please help me out all I want is a bad ass lifted pathy!! Plan is to shave the fenders down and put some 33" tires on.

 

 

10264890_10203228758935765_1656136441_n.

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You've gone to far me lad.

2" spacers + OME springs is just to much for the poor CVs to handle. you can do one or the other not both. To do both you'll need Krypton Fab's Sub Frame Drop kit which drops your front diff a few inches thereby getting your CVs to the correct angle.

for the now I'd take out the spacer kit and just run the OME springs. or see if steve will trade you 2" spacers for 1" ones.

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So I remembered that I still had my old springs hanging around the garage, so instead of taking off one of the spacers, I decided to instal the old springs in place of the OME springs. No problems in 2wd with the CV axles anymore, but still a bit of clunking around under full throttle in 4wd on pavement at least. Im guessing it is just because I have remanufactured axles. I read a couple other offroad forums, and it seemed like some other people had the same issue of binding/clunking when lifting their IFS trucks with remanufactured axles, while others had no issues when using original equipment with the same lift. Being that my local dealership quoted me for $650 bucks/axle, I'd rather just deal with a bit of shaking. Now there is a bit more rake but it doesn't really bother me much. Maybe I will take out one of the spacers out back for a more level ride. Now if my tires would just come in!! Interested to see how much trimming will need to be done for them to fit under the front fenders...10176026_10203279116194665_1715177732402

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Here's my results after installing 4x4design 1.5" front and rear spacers:

Tires are 255/70-17 (31") Nitto Terra Grapplers

 

Before (with OME 0.5" suspension lift)

823531_1421098384819946_7471660210809056

 

 

After 1.5" spacers front and rear:

10289874_1421098374819947_79528887243171

 

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You can get extended SS brake lines online, but as far as the shocks, I believe the sway bar would be the limiting factor before you hyper-extend your shocks. Don't quote me on that for your rig specifically, but I know that's how mine works.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You probably don't want a 1.5" rear spacer unless you're going for the stinkbug look :) I have 1" spacers all around with my 2" AC lift and unloaded the rear looks to sit slightly higher but with cargo etc it levels out about perfectly.

 

As for the brake lines, I don't have a rear sway bar but my KYBs act as limiting straps (not good) and don't allow the brake line to extend past its max. What Bilsteins do you have? if they have a longer travel then you should probably opt for the brake extended line.

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You probably don't want a 1.5" rear spacer unless you're going for the stinkbug look :)

As for the brake lines, I don't have a rear sway bar but my KYBs act as limiting straps (not good) and don't allow the brake line to extend past its max. What Bilsteins do you have? if they have a longer travel then you should probably opt for the brake extended line.

 

Stink Bug is not my favorite look! :laugh:

 

How does yours drive without the rear sway bar? I keep contemplating removing mine. I have the 5100 Bilsteins I think, I recently got extended, steel braided brake lines in preperation for if/when I get a SFD. I also have a new master cylinder, I'll probably fit the brake stuff next week.

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