Jump to content

The final word on lifting the R50 at a low Cost


fleurys
 Share

Recommended Posts

well this is good news!! i'm in the middle of lifting my 2002 pathfinder and would be very interested in your kit...but how much is low cost for you and when is it going to be available? i already bought my tires they are good year territory lt265 75 r16. it needs new shocks in the back im thinking of kg4163 kyb gas adjust or should i get longer ones? Im also ordering manual hubs do you have any suggestions and do i need anything else??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys. New here. Just picked up another R50 pathy after a 15yr seperation with a 96 model. This ones an 03' 4x4.

I recently ordered a 2" spacer kit with Rancho rs5000 shocks/struts all around. I'll also be changing the front cv axles since one has a ripped boot, plus adding manual hubs.

 

Question for those that have installed these types of list already, is it capable of being completed by one person, or is two mandatory?

I've lowered many vehicles in my day when I was showing them, but never lifted one.

 

Any assistance would be greatly appreciative!

 

Thanks. Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys. New here. Just picked up another R50 pathy after a 15yr seperation with a 96 model. This ones an 03' 4x4.

I recently ordered a 2" spacer kit with Rancho rs5000 shocks/struts all around. I'll also be changing the front cv axles since one has a ripped boot, plus adding manual hubs.

 

Question for those that have installed these types of list already, is it capable of being completed by one person, or is two mandatory?

I've lowered many vehicles in my day when I was showing them, but never lifted one.

 

 

 

Any assistance would be greatly appreciative!

 

Thanks. Jeff

I did front and rear on mine by myself with sway bar end links. Struts springs and spacer lift. I did rear on a Friday afternoon and front in one long terrible Saturday afternoon. I have power tools and multiple racing jacks but no lift.

 

If you can do hubs on your own and brakes you can handle this alone. Soak everything in penetrol 90 the week before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Installing a lift on the Pathfinder is doable solo, but it's definitely easier with a helper. The two things where having a helper is beneficial are wrangling the struts in and out of the wheel well (especially reinstalling them) and getting the springs reinstalled in the rear axle after the spacers are added. For the rear, after you've removed the shocks, make things easier on yourself by unbolting the swaybar mounts on the axle so that the swaybar doesn't get in the way of dropping the axle low enough to place the spacers. Be careful not to overstretch the brake line and differential breather tube when dropping the axle. If it is hard to drop the right side of the axle to install the spring/spacer, you can place a floor jack under the LEFT brake drum and jack it up really high so that the right side can be pushed down easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys! Going to give it a go next weekend. Getting in the final few items in this week to complete the job. Changing out the springs, cv axles, etc. too while I have everything apart.

 

Looking forward to getting it installed!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you changing both CVs or just the torn one? I was going to change mine but they were good and I did the Warn install so they are kind of frozen in time except when I lock them in.

 

Get ready for a fight on the end links. They are made out of unobtanium or something.

Edited by LittleFR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went ahead and ordered a set. The truck has 140k miles on it, and for $100 for a set, I figured I'd go ahead and get them and start new, then keep the OEM one as a backup if ever needed.

 

I'm going to do manual hubs too, but will most likely run AVM's to save $100. They seem to have good reviews based on my research and I really don't use 4x4 that much right now, although I anticipate hitting the mountain trails much more often once I get my lift and new wheel/tires on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I am looking into doing the old man emu lift kit with their shocks in the next couple of months. Will a 1" spacer up front and 1.5" spacer in the rear be a safe bet with reliability in the cv area. Mind you this will be my daily and adventure rig. I don't want to cause binding up too much.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the 1" HDPEs of yours up front to level my OME- great work, and thanks for working with me on the shipping. :happy:

You have the OME 2" kit and 1" spacers? Was there any binding going this route or anything that should be added to install this.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Installed my kit yesterday. Thanks

 

348ksbq.jpg

Any binding of the cv's? I'm thinking of adding Steve's 2" kit to my existing MD springs which already gave me a little over 1/2", so I'd be about 2.5" over stock, but want to avoid binding the axles.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Long time lurker, first time poster! I've read through this thread, all of Stiocs ExpPortal stuff and alot of postings from Fleury, ExBrit, etc. I have a 2002 LE that I bought new & has about 100K on it. The only suspension mod it has are rear AirLifts. I've used it in AZ, CO & UT alot about 10 yrs ago but I now have more time & money & want to turn it into a bit of an Overlander Rig for the Pacific NW. Due to work & family will likely only get to use every 1-2 months for day or weekend local trips. Stioc's build has inspired me as his general tastes seem similar to mine. I want to start with an off-road bumper, winch(likely SmittyBuilt X20 10 or 12K), rock rails & a lift. Currently I'm stuck on the bumper as I don't want a Sahara Bar but I am trying to see if I can get a WJ bumper modified to fit-it would look better in my opinion & be lighter. I thought I would need to know the weight of my bumper & winch to judge suspension components for lift. Ultimately more weight will go on with double battery setup, Hi Lift, Fleury's missing link & skid plates, expedition rack and a possible rear swing away bumper if I can find one.

 

I believe all of my springs, struts & shocks are largely shot and need replacement. I plan to keep the truck another 10 years but it is not my daily driver and is primarily a camping vehicle, snow vehicle, hardware store hauler and yard supply trailer hauler for home projects. My goal is as much lift as possible without unduly stressing the CV joints, etc. I am not sure I will be able to do the work so I would like to plan everything I need and do it in one whole project to avoid later labor costs if I can't do it. I have also gathered I can expect to need to replace the upper & lower trailing arms as well as the swaybar links and I will need a camber alignment once I'm done.

 

It sounds like 2" lift is no problem, maybe 2.5". I am okay with the rear being just slightly higher than the front but don't want the reverse. I lean towards the OME over the AC for Springs as several people have commented the AC are harsh, however they don't sag under weight as much as the OME. I don't want the KYB GR-2 struts as I am going to keep the stock wheels for now & replace them with bigger tires and probably wheels once the current pair wears out (my understanding is that the GR-2's require a different backspacing than the OEM wheels). I am okay with the OME struts unless there is something nearly as good for considerably less. I was planning on OEM shocks but I can't tell if I would be better off with Bilstein 51s (it seems most think these are better than the Rancho's but I am open to debate).

 

Current Minimal Plan:

Front: OME Heavy Duty Springs, 1" Spacer from Fleury or NDX, OME Struts.

Rear: OME Medium Duty Springs, 1" Spacer, OME Shocks or Bilstein 51s

Replace upper & lower trailing arms (only know of OEM so open to other suggestions)

Replace sway bar links (again open to suggestions)

Camber Adjustment

 

Questions:

Will this give me a minimum 2" lift?

Do I need to use 1.5" spacers to compensate for expected sag of the OME Springs as compared to AC Springs?

(I know Stioc used AC with 1" all the way around but changed out his OME for AC due to sag)?

Open to commentary on all of above. Despite all the reading I have done, I can't really tell if I have the best choice for struts & shocks. It seems the OME's will keep the Path feeling as crisp as it did when it was new for highway & town driving but there seem to be alot of Bilstein advocates and even Ranchos?

 

I know that's a whole lot & maybe this isn't the right thread but I've been reading a ton and just didn't know for sure where to start.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

RainGoat, first off, welcome! Sounds like you've got a pretty solid plan. In my 01, I've been running AC medium-duty springs all the way around, they initially gave me almost an inch over stock (replaced at 50k-ish so stock springs weren't too badly sagged), after a few thousand miles they settled to just over a half inch over stock. I've got 170k on the truck now (so roughly 120k on the springs) and they're still holding strong. The initial ride was a bit on the stiff side, but softened a little over time, still has a firm ride. I've been very happy with the load capacity as well. The entire time I've been running KYB GR-2's front & rear (replaced them once after about 70k), and they've been good as well. There's no physical difference between any of the aftermarket struts, so no need to run different backspace wheels. The need for additional backspace arises once you are lifted and want to run larger tires. Due to the position of the lower coil bucket on the strut, you will find a taller/wider tire will not clear that point with stock backspace. I run 265/70/16's on factory SE wheels and it's VERY close. I plan to add another inch or 2, using spacers from SFC, then move up to 265/75/16's on my stock wheels, but I'll be adding 1" wheel spacers to gain the needed strut clearance. At that time, I'll be changing the struts again (most likely with gr-2's again) and shocks (this time I'm going to try a set of OME). Hopefully this info gives you some food for thought.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a similar setup. I have a custom tube winch bumper on the front (I'm a fan of the ARB bumper, but it was out of my price range). I have the OME HD coils in the front and MD in the rear, as well as a 1" spacer in the front and 2x 1" spacer in the rear. This gives me a little more rake than I'd like (close to 2"), but I'm fine with it. In your case, only having one set of spacers in the rear should yield a very nice amount of rake. I've found the rear OME coils to be great for taking moderately large amounts of weight and have been using them for 8 months or so now. I just put my HD coils in the front on today with KYB struts. As 01Pathmaker said, KYB struts are physically identical to OEM. The backspacing issue comes when you want to run tires larger than 31", but that applies to any brand of strut. I currently have stock rear shocks but plan to get Bilstein. Overall it sounds like you have a good plan and can't wait to see how it turns out! (By the way, don't forget camber bolts.)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know, it would probably be helpful if I actually answered your questions. :lol:

 

 

 

Questions:

Will this give me a minimum 2" lift?

 

About that, yeah.

 

Do I need to use 1.5" spacers to compensate for expected sag of the OME Springs as compared to AC Springs?

(I know Stioc used AC with 1" all the way around but changed out his OME for AC due to sag)?

 

Depends, are you trying to replicate somebody else's setup? If not, I wouldn't worry about that extra half inch, especially if you're only wanting to use 1" spacer in the rear. (You will want some amount of rake so it rides level when loaded up with gear, towing a trailer, etc.)

Open to commentary on all of above. Despite all the reading I have done, I can't really tell if I have the best choice for struts & shocks. It seems the OME's will keep the Path feeling as crisp as it did when it was new for highway & town driving but there seem to be alot of Bilstein advocates and even Ranchos?

 

I'm planning to get the Bilsteins. They're really not that expensive for a high-quality brand. (Not bashing Rancho's folks.)

 

I know that's a whole lot & maybe this isn't the right thread but I've been reading a ton and just didn't know for sure where to start.

 

Welcome, and it looks like you've found a great place to learn a lot and have your questions answered! Hopefully I was helpful, if not I'm sure others will chip in! :)

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks so much guys! Like anything, reading will only get you so far and I really appreciate hearing your real world experience. For instance, I clearly didn’t get the backspace thing but now I do-Thanks!

 

Hearing that the AC springs loosen up is usefull. I was getting the impression that the AC’s might be so miserably stiff that I would regret not having gone with the OME. Then I thought maybe I should do the Heavy Duty OME’s in front with the AC’s in the rear since they don’t have Heavy Duty OME’s for the rear, only Medium Duty. I thought this might make the front end a little smoother but put some braun in the back should I want to trailer something heavy or even load her down with a heavily loaded expedition rack, offroad bumper with swingout, etc. Your comment that the OME Medium Duty have handled moderately large amounts of weight makes me reconsider. I thought the OME struts/shocks would give me the best ride as well, but now I’m starting to think OME struts and Bilstein 51 shocks (might even just do the KYB GR-2 struts since it seems everyone is happy with them). Your comments regarding the 1.5” spacers lead me to believe that just using 1” all the way around will give me just a little forward leaning rake which works fine for me. I guess I can always put some Airlifts in the back if I find I need a little support with heavy loads. They worked well for me in my stock truck though I did find I needed to replace them after about 20-30K mi each time.

 

I want as much lift as I can get without changing the drivetrain dynamics so much that I wear out my CVs or other parts. This truck was my adventure/camping vehicle for about 6-7 years, most of which involved a lot of highway miles to access the outdoors. Since buying a home & having kids it was largely just a weekend Hardware store hauler for about 4-5 years but then my daily driver for about 4 years. Now it’s back to hardware store runs, snow travel and utility trailer hauling (mulch/dirt/etc). Since the front bumper & suspension all need work, I’ve decided to go all in and do the stuff to it I have always wanted to do. I greatly appreciated how nicely it handles and I realize that I will trade off some of that for offroading capability, however, I didn’t want to make it a labor to drive and would be willing to spend a little more if for better parts if needed. In 15 years and 100K miles, like all my other Nissans, it really hasn’t cost me anything since I do all the maintenance and nothing really breaks (except those pesky O2 sensors but I can do them easy enough).

 

A priority for me is to do all of the work at once as I may have to pay to have someone do it. I don’t think I currently have the time or a place to do it here-no garage for the Path and it rains all the time. I am tempted to try, but I fear that I will get bogged down and then the truck will just sit there inoperable for an extended period of time. Labor is expensive here (>$100/*) and switching out less costly alternatives that don’t work isn’t cost effective and often means I would just stick with the inferior first try.

 

Thanks again for your input!!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm happy to present to you the most easy and affordable way to level or lift your R50. Basically for years, there has been only two solutions : lift with AC springs for a 2" lift or Krypton Fab for 4". Krypton Fabrication is a great company and if you are looking for a 4" lift kit, they have a great product that will work for you. My hat to you guys !

 

On the other hand, AC springs, although of good quality, are costly. They also bring a new problem of their own called top-out. This is when the strut reaches it's maximum extension by making a loud noise. This is caused because the lift is reach by putting stiffer coils. By doing so, the unibody of the R50 sits higher on it's springs...but is also mean that the struts are almost at maximum extension....not good... (I know for a fact since I had , myself, to install limiting straps to prevent this problem).

 

4x4design.com now offers you a new low cost alternative for a 2" and lower lift. HDPE spacers have been around for many years and have been proven to work. Daystar is a good example that has been making spacers with aluminium , then changed to 'durathane'. This is their own recipe of polyurethane.

 

Spacers are great also because you keep you plush ride since you do not have to change expensive coils with stiffer ones !. Top-out is not a problem since you do not over-extent your struts.

 

For a complete comparison of 3 different spacers kit (with pictures), check out on the web site : http://4x4design.com/r50-lift-kit.php . From there you will SEE what different spacers give how much lift. From there, you will be able to order the right lift for you and your activities. It can go from a simple rear spacers only for towing or full front and rear lift. You can also use them to level your truck on the front.

 

 

 

Come see for yourselves ! http://4x4design.com/r50-lift-kit.php

 

 

Before lift:

image_zps71597a27.jpg

 

After 2" all around

image_zpsb643fcf9.jpg

 

 

Steve.

 

 

 

The 4x4 link you have posted is a dead link.. brings you nowhere

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...