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engine knocking


tsailor21
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hello all

i was out mudding the other night and my oil light came on so i stoped and checked the oil and ith was full but when i started it up again it had a knock over 2000 rpm but the oil light was not on anymore and has not come on since so im thinking that my jdm import engine needs some new rods and mains and an oil pump what do you guys think.

 

also where is a good place to buy internal engine parts fo a vg33.

and how do i determine the year of my engine

 

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Needs new bearings and a crank polish at least, rods will be fine. Cause of low oil pressure could be the toasted bearings, a bad oil pump, bad oil pump pick up tube gasket, bad front gasket, or some crap clogging the pickup tube.

 

Did you swap in the VG33? Oil pumps usually don't go bad on those.

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yes i have the vg33 oil pump and crank . im pissed because this engine was only supposed to have between 40 and 60k on it so i didnt replace the bearings. do you know if you can pull just the engine or do you nedd th pull the tranny too i hate putting my tranny in on my back on jack stands.

 

 

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thanks kingman

i figured out what was wrong with my rig it needs new main and rod bearings

so that means a total tear down so i can get the crank turned and the block line bored at the local machine shop.

i will do a write up on this project with lots of pictures.

i love doing rebuilds just not on an engine that i just put in my daily driver

 

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Agreed, it shouldn't fail so soon.

 

 

 

i figured out what was wrong with my rig it needs new main and rod bearings

so that means a total tear down so i can get the crank turned and the block line bored at the local machine shop.

i will do a write up on this project with lots of pictures.

i love doing rebuilds just not on an engine that i just put in my daily driver

Make sure you determine the failure root cause as well.

 

Yeah, I hear you. A downed daily driver is never fun and neither is redoing work that should have lasted. Combine the two and it sucks...

 

B

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well i think it might have been the mudding it at a pretty steady 4500 to 5000 rpm for likr 20 to 30 seconds across a pond with about a foot of water and like 2 feet of mud but i have been usin royal purple in the engine so i wouldent think tht would hurt it

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I have put my vg30e, vg33e, and vg30de engines in various vehicles through redline conditions for years on end and >100k km with regular maintenance and very, very few problems. I would really investigate for any (if any) causes to the engine failure... pretty much any Nissan engine from the late 80s to early 90s are bulletproof when maintained...and no mechanical failures are present..

 

Maybe there were contaminants in the oil, an exploded filter or something ? (Just brainstorming). Really unusual for that failure, especially in a 3.3.(from my experience)

Edited by Nefarious
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For the next engine or rebuild I suggest chevron 5w30. Royal Purple kind of, umm, sucks. That RPM range isn't a problem at all given there's nothing wrong with the engine already. Hell we run these things at redline for ages without issue. For these engines, redline RPM is fairly well below where the cross drilled crank loses it's ability to supply adequate oil flow.

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hey guys i got the engine out and on a stand lastnight. When i got the pan off i seen that the #6 rod bearing is spun. i am going to tear the engine down tonight so i will take some pics and post them. dose anyone know if these engines have a problrm holding rod brarings after one has been spun. like do i need to get a new rod? also could a bad oil pump cause this problem i really dont want to do this again when im done i want to drive it for another 100k

thanks guys.

 

 

also dose anyone know how to get ahold of mr.510

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You can get a hold of David through his website, WWW.VG30.com

 

You won't need a new rod, but you will need to have the crank mic'd and polished at the very least. Best thing to do is have the crank ground and factory Nissan undersized bearings installed. Nissan does not sell stock size replacement bearings, only undersized so the crank must be reground if you go that route. If all the crank needs is a polish, ACL sells stock sized bearings that work well. The FSM will have specs and a test procedure for the oil pump, you'd need to pull it apart to inspect the gears. Interesting that No. 6 spun as it's the first bearing to get oil. Usually it's No. 2 that spins, but Nissan may have changed the oil flow through the crank with the VG33?

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thanks for the info. lastnight cot cut short due to the fact that my dog got in to the bucket of antifreeze and is now at the doggy er my spun braring just got really expensive

 

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When you get an engine imported from JDM land they never know how many miles are on the engine's so they give a guestimate as cars over there are only used until they are broken in, and then get scraped because taxes on older cars is ridiculous, and then the engines get shipped over here.

 

As for Royal Purple, the first time I used it, was also the last time I used it. I lost oil pressure going over the pass and when I got to the bottom I decided to drain it and refill with dino. It came out with a consistency much like water.

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  • 2 weeks later...

well i just got some bad news from the machine shop my crank can not be fixed the bearing wos spun too badly. so if any one has a crank out of a vg 33 please let me know

 

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I hope they did not line bore your block yet. That's a waste of money on these engines. The the main journals on these engines will remain true unless something totally catastrophic happens... Something that probably won't happen on an N/A engine unless you insist on running it until the entire engine is FUBAR.

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found a reman crank on ebay with bearings for $350 so that should be here on tuseday i hope apperantly the 3.3 was used in a wide range of vehicals so that makes parts easy to come by which is good because im ready to be driving my pathy again and the snow is coming. im going to have the machine shop hone the cylinders for new rings so this thing should be like new when im done.

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Wow...that is some serious catastrophic damage to happen to such a low mileage engine. Just curious, why did you buy a VG33 from a JDM importer when they were sold here in the US and aren't in short supply?

 

I suggest you rebuild your engine properly. You should replace all crank bearings and have the big ends of your rods resized to properly accept the new bearings. Also, the rod bolts are likely torque-to-yield, meaning you'll need new ones. ARP rod bolts are reasonably priced and are cheap insurance for spinning bearings in the future. Honing the cylinders and getting new rings was probably overkill though. I would be extremely disappointed and surprised if the honing did any benefits at all. Actually, an engine is at its best around 50k-60k miles when everything is broken in. I guess your clock is pretty much reset on that one.

 

How long did you run the engine after it had started knocking?

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