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Can't figure this one out, Ford Fusion tire question


ahardb0dy
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I have no idea what Ford was smoking when they put a "W" speed rated tire on these cars ! Really, tires rated up to 168 MPH from a 4 cylinder Fusion ?????????? !!!!!!!!

 

If this car ever comes near 168 MPH, including dropped off a cliff, I will sell all my Nissan's and start buying Ford stock !!!

 

Hell the speedometer only goes to 120 !

 

Sorry I'm bitching just that the car needs 2 tires now and because they have to be "W" speed rated of course they are more expensive and will probably not last as long because the "W" rating puts the tire into a performance class

 

Way to go Ford !!

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Most legit shops won't put a tire on a vehicle with a speed rating less than what the manufacturer states it should have, it's a liability issue.

 

"V" rated tires aren't much cheaper than the "W" rated ones,

 

Cheapest I found at my local tire store was $85 with no tread wear warranty, guy said they usually go 20-30K

Cheapest tire with a 60K tread wear warranty was $112 each.

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The above is a dig in no way, just pointing out that certain car classes come with certain additional costs. As an example, I knew when I bought my car that it was going to need tires very soon and I also knew that those tires were not going to be cheap. :shrug:

 

 

 

 

Couple things to look at:

 

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/?qid=20091018171217AA81Uyg

 

 

How important is it to match tire speed ratings?

As one who drives a boring 4 door sedan (non luxury, non sports) primarily to get to place A to B reliably and safely, I found that my car had a tire rating of "V" for speed (up to 149 mph). The auto store salesperson was adamant that for safety reasons, I should only buy a V, or at worst, one level down, a H at up to 130 mph at about a $30 premium over an S rated tire (up to 112 mph) with similar mileage warranty. Further he said I shouldn't even mix an S on one axle if I had two of the original Vs on the other axle (better tires on rear axle).

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4 yrs ago / astatine

 

Best Answer (Chosen by Asker)

Answering the last question first, small cracks are a normal part of tire aging and do not by themselves indicate anything. All tires do it.

 

Now on to the main part...

 

In the last decade especially most cars and even some light trucks and SUV's have switched to "performance" tires with speed ratings of H (130mph) or very often V (149mph) or even higher. Such performance tires now make up about 70% of the tires fitted on new cars and trucks at the factory. Why? Your "boring family sedan" I would bet probably has 250hp or more - in other words the kind of power a Ford Mustang GT couldn't even touch just 20 years ago. So what used to be the private reserve of Porsche's and Ferrari's is now found on Accords and Carmy's. Does that mean you can or should drive that fast? No. But does that mean the car will drive differently at "normal" speeds?

 

A few months ago Bridgestone Tire sent me to a clinic where we got to thrash 4 identical BMW 328i sedans around a small test track. Each vehicle was equipped with Bridgestone tires, the primary difference being the Speed Rating of each tire. Car #1 had T (118mph) speed rated tires, Car #2 had H (130mph) speed rated tires, matching the OEM tires on that model BMW, Car #3 and V (149mph) and Car #4 had W (168mph). All of the tires were various models of Bridgestones - no cheap junk.

 

On the T speed rated tires the car felt like driving an old Buick. It was spongy and imprecise with noticably more understeer and required longer braking distances - it was easy to overshoot the corner. The H speed rated tires felt much better. Now it felt like I was driving a BMW instead of a sloppy old Buick and the speed rating difference is only 12mph. As we progressed up to the next two cars steering responsiveness, overall grip and braking performance improved noticably. The difference in lap times was stunning yet. And guess what? Top speeds in this test probably never exceeded 50-55mph.

 

Tire construction changes the higher the speed rating. Different components and different tread compounds are used in order to ensure that the tire can hold together at high speeds. This can and does have an impact in how your vehicle will drive at legal road speeds. If you want to chance it, take those V-rated tires off, put on some S or T rated tires then take that cloverleaf on the way to work the same way you used to. I guarantee you won't like the result. Unsafe? Probably not, but you will definately be reducing the capabilities engineered into your car.

 

No single item has a greater impact on how a vehicle drives than the tires. I presume the reason you bought the car is because you liked how it drove. The reason the car drives like it does is because it was engineered around a V rated tire. Mixing tires of different speed ratings on the same vehicle is never a good idea because it can give the vehicle a real Frankenstein kind of character, what with having tires of very different capabilities on different corners of the car. But yes, the more capable tires should always be on the rear axle to promote good vehicle stability (prevent spinouts).

And this one brings up Fords unfortunate situation regarding tires

 

http://www.barrystiretech.com/speedratings.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If a car manufacturer puts tires rated at the vehicles expected performance levels and something bad happens, then "they" risked your safety. But if they put something much safer on (and thus over the required rating) then "they" are stealing your money. :rolleyes:

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I could understand a tire rated for 130 MPH, but 168 mph??

 

it's not my car and the lady who's car it is took it over from her son who left it here when he had to return to duty in the Army, I was just posting because I think it is ridiculous for a car that may hit 112 MPH to have tires rated for 168 MPH, of course the car will probably handle better with a "V" or "W" rated tire than it would with a "S" rated tire but this car has the 4cyl 175 HP in it.

 

And most high performance tires don't even come with a tread wear warranty as they are designed for dry performance mostly and are sticky to handle better, but this is a mid size 4 door, not a Suabru STI or Mitsubishi EVO !

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There are plenty of options

 

In addition to Rebelord's suggestion (buy online)...

 

  • There are tire shops that will install lower rated tires, you might have to sign off liability though.
  • Buy the tires from the new tire store, then take them to a used tire shop or high school auto shop and have them mounted and balanced.
  • Buy some good tires from a used tire shop.
  • Buy some good tires off craigslist and have them mounted.
  • Buy some tires from a wrecking yard (some can mount & balance)
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Tires.com (Discount/America's Tire) shows tire results starting at $72 (H rated Hankook - http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findTireDetail.do?c=2&rcz=98597&ar=50&rf=true&rd=17&rc=WASINT&cs=225&dVeh=dVeh&ra=searchTiresByVehicleAndSize.do&fl=&tc=HANHH1&yr=2010&pc=12851&vid=017784) but lists tires with various ratings.

 

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/searchTiresByVehicleAndSize.do?v=017784|2010&sortBy=prca&r=WASINT|pc|98597&ar=50&fqs=true&rd=17&cs=225

 

*prices based on Western Wa

 

Speed Rating (# of Results)

  • H (3)
  • R (1)
  • T (8)
  • V (26)
  • W (22)
  • Y (5)

Speed Rating specs from their site

  • B - Up to 31 mph
  • C - Up to 37 mph
  • D - Up to 40 mph
  • E - Up to 43 mph
  • F - Up to 50 mph
  • G - Up to 56 mph
  • J - Up to 62 mph
  • K - Up to 68 mph
  • L - Up to 75 mph
  • M - Up to 81 mph
  • N - Up to 87 mph
  • P - Up to 94 mph
  • Q - Up to 100 mph
  • R - Up to 106 mph
  • S - Up to 112 mph
  • T - Up to 118 mph
  • U - Up to 124 mph
  • H - Up to 130 mph
  • V - Up to 149 mph
  • W - Up to 168 mph
  • Y - Up to 186 mph
  • Z - 149 mph and over

 

 

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First of all, when it comes to tires I never want to go with the cheapest possible. I read the reviews and buy what suits my needs and has the best performance. For instance, my Lincoln has Michelin Primacy MXV4s, I have Toyo Open Country AT-IIs and my Ram has Wrangler Duratracs. None are cheap tires, but they make the singularly largest difference in each's ride, handling, and traction. OEMs seem to have no idea on what tires to equip, and for safety purposes a premium tire is a good idea- better handling, sometimes fewer blowouts, and better traction in transient conditions. To me, tires are one of the most important parts of any vehicle, and not worth skimping on.

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I won't use the no name private label tires either and would prefer Michelin's but usually can't afford them. Tires don't have to be the cheapest one's available but I look at the treadwear warranty as well as reading reviews.

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All good options, I've seen tires with "Y,W,V down to T" in this size on tirerack.com, but "T" is too low at 112"

 

it's a 2010 4 cyl Fusion, with 225/50/17's

 

I'd say T is probably the highest I would go, do you really ever expect to be going 110 mph? I like those cars too. I'm proud of Ford for that one and the Focus, and new F150s and Raptors. Is the speed rating literally only just the speed the tire is rated for or are there other variables factored in / out for the tire generally speaking, i.e. handling, sidewall stiffness, mileage rating / longevity.

Edited by gv280z
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well usually a higher performance tire will grip the dry better, and be more sticky which usually will keep the tread wear low, a touring tire may have a tread wear rating of 600 or more, a performance tire may be 180, or less or not have a rating at all.

 

I'm sure the higher the speed rating the stiffer the tire will be as well.

 

Right now the major factor for the car's owner is cost as the car also has the common Fusion left side axle leak where it goes into the tranny, must be common on those, when I searched for it, it was the first problem that came up.

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Cheapest tire with a 60K tread wear warranty was $112 each.

This is a problem? Seriously?

Look, you have 4 little things that are all that keep you in contact with the damn globe you are driving over, in all and every driving condition and situation, with only 1-2 square feet of contact patch. Even if it isn't a high speed vehicle or a vehicle you plan to drive at high speed, wouldn't it be nice to know if you were forced to make an evasive manuever, recover from a skid or bump from another vehicle, that you had some good tires that gave you a chance to recover without crashing? How about road hazzards? Ever have a blow out? Maybe a good tire would only puncture, not shrapnel while you are going 80 on the way to work IIRC?

What is the point of trying to save $20-40 per tire over 60,000 friggin miles? Do the math, it becomes rediculous. Obviously get the best price you can, but for decent tires... Skimp in the gas you put in it, the oil, the belts and hoses and all the other stuff, but don't skimp on the tires!

 

Not ranting at you, just ranting; this is a stupid thing that many people a guilty of. There are times to be frugal, but safety is not one of them. Choose the tire by the temp and weather rating and local conditions (yours are much like mine), reviews, etc. You should be looking for a high traction tire with excellent wet weather characteristics that runs cool due to your local temps. Don't choose by price!

I got some Yokohama YK580s for my wife's Matrix, not because it is a sports car, but because I love her and want her to be as safe as is reasonable to expect when driving. Discount tire says they are Ford Fusion fitment even though they are H rated (130).

 

When you are buying tires for my superbike that are ZR rated, cost $200-250 each and last 5,000 to 6,000 miles, then you can start complaining... ;)

 

B

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