teixeira Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 (edited) Need your help on completely remove my EGR system, EGR valve, pipe, butterfly housing, etc. Been searching for this but can't find any write up on how to do it. Here it is: Seen the bolts and with tools I have theu are reachable from the top or engine bay, no biggy... Taking the valve off I need the blanking plate, gasket paper to make a gasket and sealant. Question: the blanking plate as to be from steel or can it be iron? I have iron laying around and could make one... Here is some measures that I found on the web: Everywhere I read I'll need 2 blanking plates, why? for the pipe? Well here is another thing, the pipe starts on the EGR and the other end is different: How do I blank this on the manifold? an equal blank as before won't work... Then we have the vacuum tubes that go from the EGR to these: Easy to take out. From here to the back of the alternator, the vacuum pump: What should I do to these vacuum tubes? Have to be careful not to affect the breaks as they use the same vacuum pump (larger tube)... And also go to the air filter box: And then the butterfly housing next... Any help is welcome, thanks everyone. Edited October 8, 2013 by teixeira Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 That tube that goes from behind the fire wall to the manifold only needs the one end blocking off with a thin blanking plate such as you drew, then bolt it all back together, it is only to cut off the gas return.The hoses to the valves as shown in the pic near the battery are blocked off like was done in this pic. As for the wee hose from the air box, I believe this needs to stay as it has something to do with a valve that senses the vacuum for the brake light on the dash. Mine was connected in a different place and left off when the engine swap was done, it took ages to find the bugger to plug back in to stop the handbrake warning light to go off. Hope this helps a little. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teixeira Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Sure helps, thanks Kiwipete. But here is the thing, I want to take out everything that isn't needed that includes that tube behind the manifold. I really don't want to bolt it back together.... How did you do it? left it there? As for the hoses, I should leave the one to the air box, I can see how you did that, nice pic. And the other hoses, what did you do? I can see that you took them out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slide Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 Thats my picture with the measurements Its tricky to undo the bolts under the exhaust manifold, a socket on a swivel (universal) and the correct length extensions is how I got mine. The inlet manifold end is much easier. Then the pipe can be removed, although its hard to get out. Lots of wiggling will get it. If you have to remove the gearbox at all, then to remove pipe would be much easier. The blanking plate size is the same for inlet manifold and exhaust manifold. I used alloy for inlet, and steel for exhaust. I also made a fitting and used exhaust blank to mount an exhaust temp probe. Not the ideal location, but is easy way to mount probe. Trace vacuum piping back from the valve on inlet manifold end of EGR pipe, and remove it. I also removed butterfly from inside throttle body, and removed vacuum piping from this also. Picture is from underneath, looking up at exhaust manifold. You can see my blanking plate with temp probe installed. Blurry bit to the right of pic is gearbox bellhousing, and to the left is the body (footwell). Removal would probably be easier if a bodylift was installed. Its also a good idea to remove inlet manifold and clean out all accumulation of gunk buildup. I used steamcleaner, but have had suggested to use ovencleaner 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slide Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 Also to help, Question: the blanking plate as to be from steel or can it be iron? I have iron laying around and could make one... Steel/iron same thing? Everywhere I read I'll need 2 blanking plates, why? for the pipe? Yes two blanking plates- one for each manifold where pipe bolts on. Well here is another thing, the pipe starts on the EGR and the other end is different: How do I blank this on the manifold? an equal blank as before won't work... Black circle shows where pipe is welded to the cast fitting that bolts to underside of manifold. Look from underneath to see. (is well hidden under there!) Same size blank plate is used here. What should I do to these vacuum tubes? Have to be careful not to affect the breaks as they use the same vacuum pump (larger tube)... Where vacuum tube is removed be sure to block off pipe (of vacuum source) so not vacuum leak is caused 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teixeira Posted October 12, 2013 Author Share Posted October 12, 2013 Thanks, Slide. So that's your measure pic, Iron and steel is the same thing, my English at the time was.... I meant alloy (like you said). I'm going to try and do some blanking plates, now I get why 2 are needed. Will look under and find those bolts to take the pipe off, doesn't look that easy.... I really don't want to remove the gearbox, let's see how that turns out. How did you block off the vacuum pipes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teixeira Posted October 12, 2013 Author Share Posted October 12, 2013 Forgot to say that the butterfly will also be removed but I want to go step-by-step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teixeira Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 Damn, I tried to get to bolts on the exhaust manifold, like you said it really is a tricky place and the bolts look really rusty. I don't have the right length to get there, I might have to go shopping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 Spray them down real well with PB Blaster if you haven't already. It'll make things a whole lot easier especially since its a hard to reach area and torque won't necessarily be at a premium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teixeira Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 Yeah, already did and will do again but with WD40 (same thing), never heard of that one here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 WD40 is alright but doesn't work any where near as well. PB chemically eats rust and creeps everywhere to break it down. If you can find a can, give it a try and you'll never go back. Doesn't smell as good unfortunately. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teixeira Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 I'll look for it, then... Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teixeira Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Looked everywhere and no one even heard of PB Blaster, guess we don't "deserve" it... Lets see if I can unbolt this or not... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 I have a pdf file here of the egr system, it shows what you have to dispose of ;-)PM me your email and I will flick you a copy if you need it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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