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'91 SE Pathfinder


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There is such a thing in terms of too big to fit between the grill and rad. Other than that, should really be an issue AFAIK.

 

As far as mounting, it may have "in" and "out" marked. Orientation doesn't matter I think.

shouldn't*

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Just an update, maybe just thoughts. After some time now I cant find a thing wrong or worn on this Pathy. I was a bit concerned with the 700 dollar price tag and the fact that the PO really had no maintenance records and a worse memory, all he could say was "I've changed the oil every 3000 miles since it was new"... OK. He could not remember when (or if) the T-belt was done (did it, the belt looked new), the exterior was badly oxidized, but straight. The windows had sooo much hard water staining that NOTHING would take it off, vinegar, Lime Away, CLR, Tile cleaner, nothing worked. Wet sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper has them looking sparkly clear (not kidding). Crawling around underneath I could see no signs of contact off road, no scrapes, dents, nothing. It all looks pristine, no rust, even all the fasteners are still free to the turn of a wrench. I found the sticker on the diff, LSD. Awesome. Checked the gear oil, full and looked and felt fresh. Even when I drained the tranny and installed the cooler the fluid was a bit dark but smelled fresh and was still purple. All the rubber bushings underneath are in tact, look good and have good resilience.

Got home today and decided I was gonna change the T-case fluid. Bought the ATF, crawled under and loosened the fill plug and some fluid came out (my driveway is not perfectly level)and it look and felt brand new. Buttoned it up.

There were a few "Chico Nissan" maintenance stickers on the inside of the windshield which was a good sign but without some invoices they are just stickers...

Now my only question is how did he get 111K miles on this thing with no visible signs of wear? I am beginning to think I really scored.

Oh, there is one thing. There is a rattle behind the dash, sorta sounds like it is coming out of the defrost vent. Wish I would have noticed it when I replaced the voltage regulator. Anybody got any ideas?

Edited by SkiBumBrian
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...

Now my only question is how did he get 111K miles on this thing with no visible signs of wear? I am beginning to think I really scored.

Oh, there is one thing. There is a rattle behind the dash, sorta sounds like it is coming out of the defrost vent. Wish I would have noticed it when I replaced the voltage regulator. Anybody got any ideas?

Congrats on the purchase of your Pathfinder.. Sounds like you did score, big time. A couple thoughts

1. I have a 93 with 333,000 miles and no signs of wear for a vehicle that old. So yeah, it's possible the PO was a good driver and took good care of it.

2. As for the rattle in the dash, try removing everything from the glovebox and see if it goes away. Maybe some loose crap rolling around in glovebox making noise. Or, remove blower fan and clean out leaves, debris etc. that may be rubbing on fan. I had a persistent rattle noise coming from vents. Turned out to be be leaves and debris rubbing on fan.

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Now my only question is how did he get 111K miles on this thing with no visible signs of wear? I am beginning to think I really scored.

Sounds like he didn't go off road, drive like an idiot or live in a salt state. :shrug:

My current Pathy is a lot like that with 107k on the clock. Other than some trim baked off by the NorCal sun, it is damn clean, straight and fresh inside, out and under. I paid 4x what you did but didn't blink as I knew what I was getting (and wanted it/needed a replacement).

Good deal Bud! :aok:

 

B

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Thanks guys. I never thought that rattle could come from somewhere other than behind the dash but it could easily be coming through the vent..... I will check that. I've been wanting to open up the vent clean out anyway. Thanks again! Second tank of fuel on the Pathy, first one was abt 17 mpg, this one was 18, mixed city and highway. I wanna try to up that some,

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/>

 

?? Uh, what is your version of Difficult?

My version of difficult is pulling/installing the engine/front diff in a MT pathy, or rebuilding and rebushing the front suspension on our rigs. Those jobs just suck, most everything else is pretty easy. Plenum is time consuming but not hard at all.

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A buddy offered me the springs off his 2000 Wrangler Laredo, will they fit on my Pathy?

I don't think so, but can you get some dimensions for them (from online)? There is an indepth thread here on the sizes, coils diameters and rates, mostly courtesy of k9sar.

 

B

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Thanks! I will go over to my buddies house and get some dims off of his coils and check out the thread with the coil spring specs.... In the meantime I went to P&P today and yarded the springs off the front of a JGC. The whole process was about 45 mins, the majority of that on the first one to figure out what I needed to release to let them fall out the bottom. If I had to do it again I bet I could get both out in les than 15 mins. Easy Schmeezy. I know there is a thread with pics on where the pigtail was cut off but for some reason I cant access the images. Can somebody post those again or just tell me where I should cut them? I am guessing about where they come to full diameter but that is just my attempt at logical reasoning. If it looks like those Wrangler springs will work you may see these in the flea market for cost...My digital calipers say these a .563 thick

IMG_0052_zps1a994dc6.jpg

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Exactly what Kingman said. .563" diameter should give you a decent rate/ride and you should get plenty of lift if you do the heat and bend to retain as much coil as possible, but don't get too carried away. If you detemper the coil, it won't help lift. IIRC the possible diameters run from .520-.590 so the ones you grabbed are right in the middle.

 

If you are inclined for reference sake, measure the height of the truck to the body crease, measure the new coil length, diameter and # of coils, install, measure the height again and measure the old spring dimensions as well. If that sounds liek too much trouble, no problem, but data is always good... ;)

 

B

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  • 1 month later...

Well, after going the JGC spring route and pushing the limits of the stock torsion bars and the ball joints I figured it was time to do things right. Trogdor hooked me up with Heloflyboy and I bought all his old suspension stuff. It is all in really go shape with less than 10K on it but he went SAS as we all know!

So this morning was my time to do the swaps. I swapped out the UCA's, I was short one front RS5000 shock so I am gonna wait to install the idler arm bracket until my front shocks come.

The JGC spring idea is OK but the way they are cut they really don't seat right and kinda wanna spring in an arc so they now have been replaced with the 4x4 Parts 3" lift heavy duty springs. A bit of a wrestle getting them on but I did it. Installed the RS5000 shocks and the Panhard rod drop down bracket and got the rear end back on the ground.

I still have to install the 2 stage Sway-A-Way torsion bars but no rush, I kinda wanna see how it feels with the stockers on there before I swap them out so I can make a comparison.

Here is a pic from this morning after I finished. Maybe looks like I should crank another 3/4 -1" more in the front? Everyone have a good weekend!

IMG_0067_zps037ce3e3.jpg

Edited by SkiBumBrian
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I want to shoot a Nissan engineer. Everything about this truck has been straight forward until I decided to install the Sway-a-Way torsion bars tonight. Who was the DMF that thought putting some blind (might as well be) bolts behind the LCA for the forward mounts of the torsion bar? How ****ing stupid is that? Something that should have taken an hour or so had me working with a trouble light trying to hold this ****ing bolt head to secure the forward torsion mount.

I wanna find this guy and stick his little nip fingers in there and pinch them off for good measure.

Don't get me wrong, I lived in Japan for 6 years and as a people I love them but this guy has to go

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no, you support the truck under the frame, put a jack under the control arm to take the tension off of it, loosen and remove the adjusting bolt, lower the control arm slowly, remove the "C" clip on the rear of the bar in front of the crossmember, take the rear adjuster off ( if it will come off) or hold the rear adjuster and bang on the bar with a rubber hammer, if you are replacing the bars you could actually just cut them but only if the tension is off. after the rear adjuster comes off, try to pull the front of the bar out of the front mount, same thing if it is stuck beat on the bar with a rubber hammer, wiggle the bar, what ever you have to do to get it out, once out grease the splines and re-assemble

Edited by ahardb0dy
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Yep, feel pretty silly. After Ahardb0dy said there was no need to take off the forward torsion bar mount I HAD to go look at the ones I took off and bigger than **** it slips right off the end. The amount of frustration I went through last night almost (I said almost) makes this humorous.

My apologies to all the Japanese engineers around the world for all the names I was calling you last night!

 

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It's all good. By the time I posted it was back together anyway. Live and learn, right? I now know how NOT to do it! Got the idler arm brace on this morning so all the goodies I got from Addrian are installed. I noticed a rip in one of my CV boots. Do they make a split boot for a replacement?

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I've seen them somewhere -- seems like these boots rip frequently on the trail and there are kits you can take to button them up. I'm not sure if that's exactly what you're asking for.

 

Your truck looks almost the same as mine (mine's a 94 but I don't know if I could tell them apart). The lift looks really good.

 

Here's mine for a comparison of stock:

 

6686298641_b865e2a2eb.jpg

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