Whitebrick Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 long story short the path has had a rough idle for the past week or so and for the past two days now coming home it makes a crazy knocking sound. It only will make the sound around 2200 and 3100 rpms. I took the seat out and ran the codes to see what was going on. it showed up with three. One is a 21 (ignition signal) it has always had that since i put in the MSD box in it. The second one is a 51 (injector circuit) i dont know what that one is yet and need help with that one still. The last one i have is a 34 code (detonation sensor) or other wise knock sensor.What im asking is that changing the knock sensor ($122 mind you) will that take the knock nose out and if thats the problem on why its making that nose. its not all the time just knock certain times no mater if i drive slow fast and what not. It will roll 240,000 miles at the end of the week and has never made this nose before. I checked the timing 15 degrees on the money.At the same time what does a knock sensor do?thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 Upload a video of the noise. If its bottom end rod knock then I fear swapping sensors won't help the issue. There is probably mechanical damage. Hard to day without hearing the noise though. Is it a clunking knocking sound or is it a more high pitched tapping sound? Is it consistent or is it intermittent/uneven sounding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebrick Posted June 26, 2013 Author Share Posted June 26, 2013 Its a light ping sound i cant get it to make the sound when its in neutral and reeving it up and down with the hood open. its only makes it when its under a load when driving. I dont know if you have heard a car when advancing timing all the way almost and it makes a ping sound because its way early. Thats the sound that it makes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebrick Posted June 26, 2013 Author Share Posted June 26, 2013 I dont know if this helps but in the mornings now in Houston ist about 80 ish or so and it doesn't make the sound. when i go home from work its about 110 road temp and thats when it seems to make it when its really hot out side. thinking it was oil but its full. i use 10w 40 in it so its pretty thick for what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 One is a 21 (ignition signal) it has always had that since i put in the MSD box in it. This is my advice: Run 87 octane gas and get rid of the MSD box. Honestly, what did you think it would get you? The Nissan ignition is plenty strong enough, to the point I have personally seen vehicles run with without the center electrode in the dizzy cap and in another case, plugs with .09"+ gap (burned that way). In both cases they started and ran reasonably well. Again, ditch the box, put it back to stock, clear the codes and then see what it does. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebrick Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 The box i thought would help on gas and what not but really i didnt see anything diffident with anything like mpgs power or anything. I asked around about what was going on with it and told him about all the codes that it was showing and.......ya he said kind of the same thing about the box. however he was looking at the injector code and told me to check the resistances on them. we printed out everything about how on consult. I think i have a bad injector of the 4 i can get to all of them were where they should be at but one. cylinder 4 and 6 i cant get to with out taking the intake off. still going to cram my hand and meter down there to play it safe somehow and know that the other two are good. The sound it is making at random times he was saying more than likely its leaning out and making the pig sound. The injector is about half the price and more than half the work so far with the number 3 not being the same. hope fully this will bring everything back to normal. The box will come out as well when this is all done. Honestly im am done with all this aftermarket crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 The Nissan ignition is plenty strong enough, to the point I have personally seen vehicles run with without the center electrode in the dizzy cap and in another case, plugs with .09"+ gap (burned that way). In both cases they started and ran reasonably well. Again, ditch the box, put it back to stock, clear the codes and then see what it does. B Seen that many times! No center 'button' left and still starts. What Precise says!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Yeah, it was my first 1995 XE. I drove it for a week or so with a slight stumble in first that smoothed out once I got the RPMs up. I started trouble shooting by checking the tune up parts first, and the cap had no center electrode and had a melted cone in the top so the spring was exposed. I put the cap on and drove it to the auto parts store to buy a new one. I told the guys behind the counter and they didn't believe me until they went out and looked at it, watched me reinstall it and drive home! The box i thought would help on gas and what not but really i didnt see anything diffident with anything like mpgs power or anything. I asked around about what was going on with it and told him about all the codes that it was showing and.......ya he said kind of the same thing about the box. however he was looking at the injector code and told me to check the resistances on them. we printed out everything about how on consult. I think i have a bad injector of the 4 i can get to all of them were where they should be at but one. cylinder 4 and 6 i cant get to with out taking the intake off. still going to cram my hand and meter down there to play it safe somehow and know that the other two are good. The sound it is making at random times he was saying more than likely its leaning out and making the pig sound. The injector is about half the price and more than half the work so far with the number 3 not being the same. hope fully this will bring everything back to normal. The box will come out as well when this is all done. Honestly im am done with all this aftermarket crap. A word of advice, I had an injector fail on me, but at first it was intermittent which made is a pain to trouble shoot. It would only do it if the car was driven until warm, shut off for a brief period and then restarted while warm. The failure mode was it tested good cold and failed hot. Unless you like to (or don't care about) removing the intake, I recommend you simply replace all the injectors on that side if you have to remove the intake. The other ones you can do one at a time if you wish as they are easy to get to. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebrick Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Ya when i start it up for the first time it runs so smooth sitting at 1200 or 1000. every day i let it sit there and heat up just a little before i drive off. When its at normal temp it idles rough and shakes like a motor mount is shot. once i am over idle and in gear its smooth. Haven't had time to change it out. i got the part and tomorrow its going to be changed out. Pull the battery run it see if the sound is back and Lord willing its gone then check the codes to see if the knock code is gone as well or if anything shows up. Maybe even get some power back that i didnt know i had lost due to this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebrick Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 Just wanted to up date on this. changed the injector and fixed the code for that but still had the knock one. $200 and eight hours later i took all the crap off the top of the block to get to the dang thing. stayed up till four doing it. Putting it all back together drove it nose is gone codes are 55!! the best code in the world for this thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Nice, good man! Job well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 I feel for you, there is a lot of crap stacked in top of that knock sensor! A few people have relocated it to the bell housing due to this and it seems to have worked, but it sounds like you have it handled. Congrats on having a healthy Pathy again, hopefully it'll stay that way. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebrick Posted July 6, 2013 Author Share Posted July 6, 2013 Lol well it did last that long..... i have cheeked everything that i did plugs vacuum lines everything. Now when i take off it feels like its missing or something. so i checked the plug wires maybe i pulled them out and there not connected well. all of them where good. so i dove it home from work and checked the codes. NOW i have a 14 code. speed sensor...... what im asking is would that make it run like that as if its miss firing? sometimes it feels like this thing is against me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebrick Posted July 6, 2013 Author Share Posted July 6, 2013 I would just change it but its $120 for it. I just dropped over 200 for the knock sensor and seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 I can imagine the speed sensor messing with the speedometer and the TCU, but I doubt it would do much to the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 I drove around without one when mine exploded. Drove fine, just no speedo and a CEL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebrick Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 thats what i was thinking too. the speedo works like i know its off having the 31s on it but its never not worked or jumped around or anything. I guess i need to check everything again and make sure that i put everything back right. look at the plugs and what not. I pulled the battery just to see if that would do anything after reading the codes about it. after putting it back it sometimes does it then it drives like nothing happened. it got to be a connection problem. never throws a light or anything. We will see. i will keep yall posted on what it is with it. a small job got a little bigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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