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Rear interior conversion


theexbrit
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Hi all,

 

I just about finished converting the rear area of my 96' into a more "cargo friendly" area. I never take passengers on my trips except for my one gas money buddy :lol: So I removed the rear seats (bottoms & backs) then cut some plywood to shape & covered it with carpet, added some tie down rings & now I can store my trail gear much better!

2013-06-11164158_zps4d05ff85.jpg

 

I managed to keep the nearly useless space under the cargo area floor, it don't hold much but every inch of space is precious.....

2013-06-11164224_zpsd40727dc.jpg

 

& 2 tie down points for my ARB fridge......

2013-06-06141307_zpsb9314a86.jpg

 

The setup worked great in Big Bear last weekend.

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Thanks.

 

I didn't finish it as well as I should have done, had to hurry the last part to get it ready for the weekend. Still, not like my truck is any shiny, pristine example of an R50 :laugh: :laugh:

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Nice craftsmanship there A! good job :aok: Lots of room now, let's see it packed.

 

I also like the 12v fridge socket in the back ;)

 

Where are you guys headed this weekend? I'm planning a trip to MOAB on ExPo, it's going to happen end of Oct if you're interested you're welcome to come with us.

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Thanks S. I have two constant 12v sockets in the back, I used the 15amp wires from the OEM amp that I removed, I might put an permanent inverter on one for 110v.

 

Nothing going this weekend, I'm planning the return to reward mine & the inyo mountains trip for early November. I'll check out ExPo for your trip, would love to do Moab. :aok: .

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Niiice theexbrit,

 

Wicked set-up. I am wondering about a couple of things like:

 

The platform for your fridge...it is removable, correct? You have it bolted to the seat belt tie-downs? What did you use underneath it to keep it level?

 

That metal bar...is it just a spreader bar to hang stuff on? And you use it to keep stuff from sliding/rolling forward and as an attachment point for bungees?

 

That is great! I am tired of my table with folding legs and (when I get me truck back) am thinking of putting in something more...permanent (like STIOC's set up but with drawers instead of cubbies, 2 drawers in the centre and a cubby on each side) I still need the rear seats for my kids so I can't touch anything beyond the cargo compartment.

 

Gotta think ahead as we may be getting a dog in the near future and I want to be able to fit him in there along with a cooler, and camping stuff.

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Gotta think ahead as we may be getting a dog in the near future and I want to be able to fit him in there along with a cooler, and camping stuff.

 

Haha, the endless reconfiguration...I know how it feels man. If size and weight didn't have consequences I'd be driving a Unimog type of a camper. Alas the Pathy has to make it work and I just have to be more creative.

 

Solo day trips or even weekend trips aren't a problem. It's the 4+ days with the family that makes the Pathy feel small. However, the two things that have given me the enormous amounts of room is the roof rack and the storage platform in the back. I'm a huge fan of storage platforms because you effectively DOUBLE the size of your rear trunk area in length and width while taking away a minimal amount in height. Not to mention the convenience of permanently storing stuff that never has to come out (recovery gear, tools, shovel, axe, spares, etc) after each trip.

 

I honestly don't know what I'd do without the storage platform or my roof rack (and the roof top bag which stores all the camping gear minus the pillows (tent, chairs, sleeping bags, pads, porta-potty tent).

 

My biggest concern is the weight, I really try to be at or under the GVWR and why I weighed my truck fully loaded (before the 32" tires), which came in at 5260lbs (GVWR is 5360). So with all the crap that we haul I'm right at or may be just over GVWR and that makes me happy :)

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Niiice theexbrit,

 

Wicked set-up. I am wondering about a couple of things like:

 

The platform for your fridge...it is removable, correct? You have it bolted to the seat belt tie-downs? What did you use underneath it to keep it level?

 

That metal bar...is it just a spreader bar to hang stuff on? And you use it to keep stuff from sliding/rolling forward and as an attachment point for bungees?

 

That is great! I am tired of my table with folding legs and (when I get me truck back) am thinking of putting in something more...permanent (like STIOC's set up but with drawers instead of cubbies, 2 drawers in the centre and a cubby on each side) I still need the rear seats for my kids so I can't touch anything beyond the cargo compartment.

 

Gotta think ahead as we may be getting a dog in the near future and I want to be able to fit him in there along with a cooler, and camping stuff.

 

The fridge platform isn't permanent but it is bolted to where the seat bottoms mount. It would probably take about 15 mins to get it out & put the seats back. I took photos when I was making it if you want to see what I did. If you cut it right it's pretty level already & seems to hold the fridge weight (& my weight) without a problem. My main concern was stuff bouncing around in the back when I'm on the trail, stioc's dog was airborne for most of the mine trip that he came on with me! I now have plenty of tie downs in the rear area & I'll try to post a photo of it in use. The metal bar is just a Pep Boys adjustable cargo bar, it helps divide up the cargo/back seat area, stop stuff from covering my fridge air vents & you can tie stuff to it if you want.

 

I'm working on my snorkel at the moment, it's a $100 Cherokee snorkel that fits with a little work. It looks just like a Safari snorkel for about 1/4 of the price. Just a little tip though, you have to remove the fender to fit it, no big deal as it's only bolted on with about 8 bolts. :itsallgood:

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interested in this new snorkel idea. Ohyeah and the back looks great also!! I am considering building a rear cargo platform just don't know if I want to make the plunge!

I made the back so that nothing is permanent, it all comes out with the removal of a few bolts & then the seats can go back in. Go for it MR, as long as you don't cut anything you'll be able to take the platform out whenever you want.

 

Here's a couple of pics of the semi home-made snorkel (& no, I haven't repaired the door yet :laugh: ).........

2013-06-21181600HDR_zps56a5133c.jpg

 

2013-06-21181540HDR_zps645d1bde.jpg

 

What it looks like from inside......

2013-06-21171135HDR_zps25ebbb25.jpg

 

Here's the next project, this dual battery control cost $125 on Amazon. I think it's an Aussie kit, got good reviews.......

2013-06-21182044_zpseab866f7.jpg

Edited by theexbrit
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Nice dude. Looks good! Jelly here of it!!

 

Dude!! Where did you get that Zombie Defense Vehicle decal?! Do want. Also which gauge pod is that? Need one similar for setting tranny temp gauge and such.

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Nice dude. Looks good! Jelly here of it!!

 

Dude!! Where did you get that Zombie Defense Vehicle decal?! Do want. Also which gauge pod is that? Need one similar for setting tranny temp gauge and such.

Thanks bro, you inspired me to start making one myself, I just couldn't get it looking right as I had to use 3" pipe (can't remember why now), then I saw this Cherokee snork for $100 & thought that I should be able to adapt it. I just cut it & used 3" muffler pipe as an extension (it sat too low for my liking).

 

You can get the decal here........ http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_15?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=zombie%20defense%20vehicle&sprefix=zombie+defense+%2Caps%2C306

 

As for the gauge pod, I got a generic one at Shlepboys for $30. I used a heat gun to heat it up enough to wrap around the stock pillar (after cutting some holes in the pillar for the gauge wires, etc) but I rushed it & could have finished it a lot better. I'm going to paint the screws (or maybe switch to rivets) & use a little filler to blend the edges into the stock pillar. If someone took their time I bet they could make a really nice job of it (stioc :D ). You could even sell them as there isn't a gauge pod for the R50 as far as I know.

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I'm also going to replace the shee-ite Sunpro oil presure gauge with another Autometer oil pressure gauge same style as the top one for water. When I fit my dual batteries I can also replace the bottom "battery condition" indicator as the dual batt kit comes with a much better batt voltage indicator.

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Now that I see the louvers on your hood, I REALLY like those. I might just get myself a set. Not too difficult to put in, are they? PS. Awesome job retrofitting that snorkel to work! It looks pretty darn sweet, and I think that yours has (in my opinion) the best looking top end. Did that come with it or did you find that separate?

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Now that I see the louvers on your hood, I REALLY like those. I might just get myself a set. Not too difficult to put in, are they? PS. Awesome job retrofitting that snorkel to work! It looks pretty darn sweet, and I think that yours has (in my opinion) the best looking top end. Did that come with it or did you find that separate?

 

Not that hard really, I have some photos that I can post of how I did the louvers step by step. The louvers were less than $30, they come in a square shape & I just cut angles on the ends, I thought it looked better with the angled look. I got the louvers here...... http://rodlouvers.com/

 

Thanks, I'm pleased with the way the snork turned out, it was a lot of cutting & sealing but it turned out how I wanted it. Rebelord in Miami got me thinking about building my own, I liked how he did his especially the fact that he kept his stock airbox, but I wanted the "Safari Snorkel Look" for various reasons. I found a place where you can buy just the end intake for $100 but when I bought the Cherokee snork kit it came with a end intake, so now I have a spare!! :laugh: :laugh: Because I wanted the end intake I couldn't use 2" pipe like Rebelord & that's where I ran into trouble. The only 3" pipe I could find was some really heavy waste pipe at Home Depot. I cut it & tried fitting it but it was so heavy I couldn't get a bracket to work. Then I found the Heep kit on Amazon. Because of it's design, I couldn't have the fender hole the same as Rebelord & that's where a little inner fender cutting comes in. I removed the fender & cut a slot in the inner fender square frame that goes towards the headlights, ran the hose thru there & under the the fender to the stock airbox hole. Another good thing about the Cherokee kit is tthat the 3" hose is really flexible & can be turned at nearly 90 degrees without kinking, a problem that Rebelord had with the shop vac hose (which I bought & still have by the way :lmao: ).

The Cherokee kit was around $100 & I bought a $14 3" exhaust flexpipe from O'Reilly Autoparts, so the whole thing was less than $150 including shipping. not as cheap as Rebelords but still way cheaper than an ARB, etc.

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