johnyreb Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Ok 1st question what is the easiest way to get to the plug on the back driver's side 2nd 1 of the old plugs has the shoulders rounded off any suggestions there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 with the tool that came in the tool kit or a long extension and spark plug socket, it's not that hard. Rounded off shoulders you may be able to use a american socket close in size, may need to tap it on, or possibly one of those sockets they sell that fit any size nut with all the needles in it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyreb Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Ok honestly i had looked much at the back one by the time i got to the rounded of 1 i was so frustrated just in general that i just put everthing up till another night Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 when I replaced the plugs in mine, the only one i had a hard time with was the pass, rear, I had to get my neighbor who has smaller hands to get the new plug started, the rest weren't bad to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyreb Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 And i never thought bout 1 of those sockets with all the needles what ever they're actually called but I've kinda wanted to see how well they work for awhile now this may be the excuse i need Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyreb Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 when I replaced the plugs in mine, the only one i had a hard time with was the pass, rear, I had to get my neighbor who has smaller hands to get the new plug started, the rest weren't bad to do. hmmm all the passenger side were pretty easy for me but the 1s on the driver's side were so stubborn i couldn't get em broke loose at all with a 18" breaker bar and a 24" cheater pipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I really don't advise trying any harder unless you want the plugs to come out with all the threads as well, these are aluminum heads and you risk stripping them. I would soak the wells with a good penetrant like PB-Blaster or the like for a few days, and run it until it gets hot a time or two, then try to remove them when hot and then when cold, but not with a cheater pipe! This might take some finess if you want put plugs back into it... Also, if they break free and are really stiff, don't keep cranking on them. You have to let them set for a bit (to cool down), re lube them, turn them back in a little (should be much easier) and then try backing them out again, repeat as necessary. My friend had to do this and changing the plugs took 1/2 the day, but he got them all out without breaking a plug, strupping any threads, etc... Ok 1st question what is the easiest way to get to the plug on the back driver's side2nd 1 of the old plugs has the shoulders rounded off any suggestions there? with the tool that came in the tool kit or a long extension and spark plug socket, it's not that hard. Rounded off shoulders you may be able to use a american socket close in size, may need to tap it on, or possibly one of those sockets they sell that fit any size nut with all the needles in it ? What he said, or a regular spark plug socket with a 6" extension. Two tricks I use, one is a 2" telescoping mirror on a stick and a flashlight so I can see to get things lined up, and the other is to make a mark or outline on the firewall with a permanent marker when you first get the socket on the spark plug. This will help a lot when you line it back up to start the threads on the new plug, by hand of course. And i never thought bout 1 of those sockets with all the needles what ever they're actually called but I've kinda wanted to see how well they work for awhile now this may be the excuse i need The sockets with the needles are called Gator Grip sockets and can actually work quite well. I've had one for years and it has helped me out a few times, even installing 1 way security screws with a cordless impact gun. I'm not sure if it is big/deep enough for a spark plug, I'll check it out tomorrow. You might have to try a selection of deep dish sockets until you find one that fits well... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) my buddy at work was replacing the plugs on his 318 dodge ram and was on the last plug when the plug broke, it left the round shoulder part that is below the hex part of the spark plug, the whole insulator part came out in one piece. He was so worried about having to get someone to pull the head to get it out, than he asked me and I gave him a few easy outs to use. The problem was with the easy out having a square shank and even with a 12 point socket I found that fit it, the socket was turning on the easy out, luckily I noticed the easy out shank was about the size of a 3/8" ratchet, but where to find a double female 3/8" coupling??? I found one of those distributor wrenches that are two wrenches joined in the middle by the knurled part, which happens to be 3/8", he put that on the easy out and although it was a little loose it wouldn't turn far enough to the point where the easy out's shank could turn in it, it took some muscle but he was able to get the broken plug out with no further damage. Moral of this story is as Precise said, don't force the plugs where they may break, my buddy was lucky, you may not be ! Oh, almost forgot, ALWAYS use anti-seize on the plug threads when re-installing them, and I always use dielectric grease inside the plug boots. Edited June 10, 2013 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyreb Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Yes I've been using plenty of anti seize something i doubt was done last time the plugs were changed IF they ever have wich from the condition of the 1s I've pulled i have to wonder atleast when they were done last Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 remember use regular old NGK's Nissan's like those best Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyreb Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 What do you mean "regular" i did get NKGs but i got the platinum figured it was worth the extra $1.05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Usually everyone recommends the normal or V-groove NGK's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Yes I've been using plenty of anti seize something i doubt was done last time the plugs were changed IF they ever have wich from the condition of the 1s I've pulled i have to wonder atleast when they were done last I've seen plugs come out of a VG33 which I suspect were original at 250k miles. The electrode was burned down almost flush with the ceramic so the gap was aprox .090-.100" Hard to tell, I don't have feeler gauges that thick so I had to triple stack some and that isn't very accurate. It is quite possible yours have never been removed... Oddly enough, they weren't too hard to remove. And yes, that Pathy drove to my house to have the tune up done. It started and ran fine... What do you mean "regular" i did get NKGs but i got the platinum figured it was worth the extra $1.05 I also have the G-Power platinum and don't have any problem with them, but they aren't necessary as ahb points out. My thought (and what is claimed) was that they should help with emissions better/longer than the standard or V power. I don't have any real empirical data to share though. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 My friends 93 had what I'm going to assume was 1 original plug...you guessed it, #6.....and it had no electrode at all. Damn near couldn't get it out because I thought it was gonna strip or break, but patience and PB Blaster won in the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Nice plug Precise ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyreb Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) I've seen plugs come out of a VG33 which I suspect were original at 250k miles. The electrode was burned down almost flush with the ceramic so the gap was aprox .090-.100" Hard to tell, I don't have feeler gauges that thick so I had to triple stack some and that isn't very accurate. It is quite possible yours have never been removed... Oddly enough, they weren't too hard to remove. And yes, that Pathy drove to my house to have the tune up done. It started and ran fine... I also have the G-Power platinum and don't have any problem with them, but they aren't necessary as ahb points out. My thought (and what is claimed) was that they should help with emissions better/longer than the standard or V ypower. I don't have any real empirical data to share though. that's how the 1s coming out of mine look lol B Edited June 10, 2013 by johnyreb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyreb Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 ^ | Thats exactly how mine look i was amazed they were making spark at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Guess it was about time to replace them than huh?? LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 My friends 93 had what I'm going to assume was 1 original plug...you guessed it, #6..... I had an '89 Astro van that was taken to a lazy mechanic as well. I don't think that it gave me any fits coming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Ok 1st question what is the easiest way to get to the plug on the back driver's side The easiest way to get to it is to take the plenum off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 For putting the new plug back in, I've heard you can stick it in the end of a bit of rubber hose and stick it in that way, then twist the hose to start the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 That's what I do. I use a 20" length of fuel line hose to hand thread the plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyreb Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 For putting the new plug back in, I've heard you can stick it in the end of a bit of rubber hose and stick it in that way, then twist the hose to start the threads. This is why i love these formums i would have never thought of that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyreb Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 I effed up and stripped a plug ( got impatient stupid i know) Now i know how to fix it and can get it done problem is in order to get it fixed i have to get the pathfinder to a friends house about 15 miles away i have no truck or trailer and can't afford a wrecker and his truck is down right now so my question now is would it hurt it drive the 15 miles to get it fixed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Well, crap. If the plug is out, I'd try to vacuum out the cylinder (shop vac, duct tape, small-diameter hose, whatever's at hand) in case aluminum shavings from the buggered threads fell in. Not the end of the world if you can't, but the less crap in there the better. This would also be a good thing to do before installing the new plug, as whatever you do to re-thread the hole will probably kick more metal in there. If you have to drive it, I'd disconnect that cylinder entirely. Unhook the wire from the plug (if it's still in the head) and unhook the injector so you're not wasting gas and torching your catalytic (or spewing raw fuel out the open plug hole, or risking blowing out a stripped plug). I imagine it'll run like crap, so go easy on it. Back roads, low speeds, probably good to keep the revs down as much as possible seeing as how it's limping. If that fifteen miles includes highway, find a different route! Good luck getting to the plug hole to tap it. Hopefully someone else who's stripped a head has a good way of doing that. A mechanic did mine so I'm no help there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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