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1994 XE 4x4- Gonna need a lot of help.


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Long story short, pathfinder ended up nose first into a river. The water reached the window on the passenger side, and halfway up the door on the driver. It sat for most of the day before being pulled out by a huge bronco. The vehicle ran once in the river, intake was not submerged, tried paddling out backwards but then it suddenly died. Exhaust tip was partially submerged.

 

Let sit for 6 months in south ga sun. Put a new battery in, and it cranked over. Im afraid to start it mainly because i dont want it to mess things up worse.

 

It has sat for a year like that in a yard at my mechanics house. I am currently deployed to Afghanistan and am trying to get it fixed while I am gone.

 

Which is why I need the forums help... Where do I even start? Obviously I'll be changing the fluids out and putting a new battery in... but where do I go from there? How can I tell if my ECU is fried before I even start this project? I had wiring problems previously with the door chime staying on, the ignition always thinking the keys were in, and the parking lights never turning off... I'm afraid to even know what I have now.

 

I'd really like to save her, but i need some good knowledge and technical advice... any takers?

 

 

I'll post pictures once I get a webhost, or i can send them to anyone interested in doing that for me.

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Dunking in the river isn't too bad... it's the year of sitting wet that scares me. :ohno01: On the plus side, it's probably dried out by now.

 

First thing I'd do is to wash it off. If you're fighting wiring issues, it's much easier when the wires aren't covered in mud. Clean out the inside, too, I imagine those carpets are good and fruity. You may have some corrosion to clean out of the submerged electrical plugs, but it's not like you dunked it in salt water. The wiring issues are probably the same as they were before, and I wouldn't worry about them until you've got it running.

 

You could test the ECU by pulling the codes (there's a writeup on here, you don't need a scan tool). If the test mode works, then the ECU may be alright. If not, you can snag one from a junkyard and swap it in. Unless the oil is contaminated the engine should be safe to start, or at least to crank it and see if it catches. If it doesn't, I'd suspect the distributor before the ECU.

 

I use Photobucket for pics. The interface is a little sketchy (they went and 'improved' it for some reason) but it's free. Copy the direct link, click the 'image' box above the reply box, and paste it in.

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:doh:

A few things were done wrong here, the main being running when it was under water, when it was pulled out you didn't pull all the plugs and crank it to clear the cylinders of any water, it sat for 6 months and then you cranked it without using a bore snake to look in the cylinders first to see of there was any rust/corrosion. Just consider that for next time.

 

I would still look in the cylinders to what is in there, I would check the condition/connections of the ignition system, drain the tank as much as possible and put fresh gas in it, find a replacement ECU (even just borrow one if you can), then try to start it. If it doesn't even try to catch, check for spark, injectors firing and wiggle wiring/check resistance of the main sensors (MAF, TPS CAS). By running submerged, I'll bet you fried the ECU (which is under the front passenger seat) and maybe some sensors as well. With a little bit if luck, it didn't suck any water but it might have backfilled in the tailpipe; I'm assuming you have a snorkel on it which is why the intake wasn't submerged?

 

B

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Oh it dried out. Southern ga is about as dry as it gets... its an oven. And yes it was inside. All sorts of inside. So the ECU sat under the water. Since it cranked over though... I felt good about it. The water did not go up the exhaust. It went under while running, then back out before dying. And no, no snorkel... just happened to only sink the right side. Distributor sounds logical though.

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Gas is being swapped, fluids are being swapped, and we are gonna try and start it again. With barely over 100k on the car... I'd like to save it. Worse case scenario I do a full rebuild and get to do all the modding I want! Thanks for the input on pictures. I'm not sure the WiFi here I'll upload much though.

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Ebay? Part out here in the Classified section?

 

Not just any ECU will work though. IIRC, it needs to be within a certain numerical range (look on yours for the serial number) to match and you can use an auto ecu in a manual shift car (I think there is something you have to loop or power), but not the other way around. I seem to recall a thread on the ECU ranges here previously so a search is in order, or maybe Alkorahil can supply the required info, but I hesitate to volunteer someones services...

 

So, step 1, is your auto or manual, what are the numbers on the ecu and your vin might help/be needed as well.

 

B

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Its manual. As for the numbers id have to get the guy back home to look. He's kinda turning shady though. Im looking into transport companies though to get it back home to Maryland. Think I found some good options. Being deployed makes this way less fun.

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Its manual. As for the numbers id have to get the guy back home to look. He's kinda turning shady though. Im looking into transport companies though to get it back home to Maryland. Think I found some good options. Being deployed makes this way less fun.

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Kinda shady? Well, you had best get it out of there then, if for nothing more than peace of mind. I'm sorry, but I can't help much from California, but depending, I might lave a lead on an ECU.

Have your mechanic send you a few pictures of the Pathy, inside, under the hood, etc so you can 'show some of your buddies'.

 

You might want to make a post in the regional section about this, there might be someone local that can help you. It's a long shot but worth a minute to try.

Good luck in the sand box, when are you coming home?

 

B

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Ebay? Part out here in the Classified section?

 

Not just any ECU will work though. IIRC, it needs to be within a certain numerical range (look on yours for the serial number) to match and you can use an auto ecu in a manual shift car (I think there is something you have to loop or power), but not the other way around. I seem to recall a thread on the ECU ranges here previously so a search is in order, or maybe Alkorahil can supply the required info, but I hesitate to volunteer someones services...

 

So, step 1, is your auto or manual, what are the numbers on the ecu and your vin might help/be needed as well.

 

B

 

 

PM me the VIN and I can tell you the part numbers, dates and applications that will work on your vehicle.

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Gas is being swapped, fluids are being swapped, and we are gonna try and start it again. With barely over 100k on the car... I'd like to save it. Worse case scenario I do a full rebuild and get to do all the modding I want! Thanks for the input on pictures. I'm not sure the WiFi here I'll upload much though.

 

 

dont forget the front differential

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I'll be back in October.

 

I'm gonna pay a company to ship it to Maryland next week.

 

I'll get the info ASAP with pictures. Words case scenario when it gets home my folks will photo it.

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  • 1 month later...

Update time! (We've been busy in Afghan, sorry.)

 

 

 

Nissan is high and dry...and more than dried out. ECU is questionable. Tested good but still not sure. Changing every fluid including the blinker fluid, and trying to turn it again. Hoping for the best. Pictures will be taken as things progress.

 

Plans for now;

 

JGC coils, t-bar crank, rancho shocks.

General grabber red letter tires

JWT ECU

Some body patches

New clutch (possibly)

Manual hubs

Stereo system install

 

 

That being said, anyone else know a source for an ECU?

Better suggestion on tires?

Good wheels to run that "fit" better than stock?

Shock size to run after lift?

 

Any general advice?

 

 

I'll keep you updated.

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If you've got the factory steel rims, you might try and find the stock alloy 'Lego' wheels. The backspacing is apparently such that you can fit 33" tires without a whole lot of fender beating.

 

Good luck reviving it!

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I do have the stock shiny wheels with 31x10.5r15 bfg a/t t/a ko on them. I would go with logos but they seem difficult to find in good shape. I looked into soft 8s etc... just didn't know if anyone had a better choice.

 

Thanks for the support!

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  • 7 months later...

For those interested, I changed the fluids, the battery, and she cranked right up! Driving her around and enjoing that magnaflow muffler a little more. Now starts the long process of rust repair, building the suspension, and getting her back to a much better restored and preserved condition. I'll be posting about all these things soon, and looking for a bit of guidance.

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