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Do you get any stumbling under load? Does it mostly happen when the engine is warm? On a cold start all is well but then starts the stumble?

 

Sounds similar to when my distributor went out.

 

1st: Check your fuel pressure. Making sure the fuel pump and regulator is good to go. How to and what pressures are in the FSM. Pretty easy to follow.

 

To check your distributor. You can take off the cap and rotor. Once off, you should see some screws to take off the internal cover. Take that off carefully. Now you will see the coil and ignition module. You can check all the wires in there for any loose connections, corrosion etc. But, you can also remove the components easily.

 

What I found, was my coil was grounding out to the distributor housing on the bottom. To where just looking at everything assembled up top looked normal. If your fuel pressure is good to go. I would check these components in your distributor.

 

A quick check and Amazon has our distributor for Link: $97

Will this fit in 2002 VG 33E engine?

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Will this fit in 2002 VG 33E engine?

I think the 2002's have a VQ35, don't they? Being as how you are in Qatar however, 2002's might have come with VG33s there. If you are sure you have a VG33 then it should fit.

 

I just got the code PO0325 knock sensor. will this fault can cause this? what happen when knock sensor fails.

I am not sure. Might be, since the knock sensor is meant to detect detonation. If your engine ran lean during the stumbling/stalling it could have caused code PO0325 (someone please correct/add if I am completely wrong or missed something)

 

There is something odd with my engine...spring last year, I ran some horrid fuel (only gas station around) and it messed with my fuel system. Said fuel caused the engine to miss and detonate ( I could hear the pinging) yet my knock sensor never went off. After that fuel tank, I used a fuel additive to get rid of impurities in the fuel and got some good gas. Didn't have issues again until late last year when the car started stalling while idling.

 

I should have never sold my Scangauge II. I could be using it right now to monitor fuel pressures and such when the engine stumbles/stalls. I might need to get another one.

Edited by Bluewulf73
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I had an MAF go bad in a Mazda Protege but the stumbling and white smoke started as soon as the ignition started. There was a ton of white smoke. My Pathfinder doesn't stall until it's warmed up really good and there is no smoke what so ever.

 

Although, I did find this on another forum, won't name it, don't wanna get banned from here already. lol ;)

 

Problem:

"I drive a 1996 Nissan Pathfinder SE (4-Wheel Drive). About 2 months ago, my check engine light started coming on. Some of the symptoms I was experiencing were an abnormal idle, stalling (when completely stopped or slowing to a stop), hesitation, and a lack of acceleration. About a month ago, I took it to an Autozone and discovered the codes were for multiple misfires and the knock sensor. I replaced the spark plugs (which were long overdue anyway), then took it to a mechanic who replaced the rotor and cap. Thankfully, this fixed the hesitation and lack of acceleration. It also cleared the multiple misfires error code, and the check engine light has not come on since. However, it did not solve the abnormal idle and stalling. In fact, the engine has now started to stall more frequently. It starts back up with no problem, but in order to prevent it from dying out again, I have to stick it in neutral and hold down the gas pedal every time I stop at a light."

 

Fix:

"My problem ended up being the mass air flow sensor (which I had seen posted in other areas of the forum as the possible culprit). I initially tried replacing the spark plugs, then the distributor (hoping it was something simple and inexpensive). Unfortunately, that didn't do me any good (although replacing the cap initially helped for a day). I finally had to bite the bullet and take it in to a mechanic, who properly diagnosed it. He said would tap the sensor (while the engine was running), and the engine would sputter out. Apparently, it has something to do with an element in the sensor or something like that (sorry, I'm no mechanic). Anyway, it cost me $345.00 to get it replaced, but I haven't had a problem since."

 

Maybe that'll help? I guess I'm gonna try it but it'll be a while, at least a few weeks.

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Had the same problem before, it was the entire distributor. You could see a small black area on to where it was arching to the body. Another thing i had to replace was the positive connector to the battery. Removed those crappy terminals, cleaned up the wires and installed nice connector J-Block that had two openings that I could install the two smaller gauge wires. Worked like a charm.

Good Luck on the distributor. Hopefully that has resolved the issue.

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I think the 2002's have a VQ35, don't they? Being as how you are in Qatar however, 2002's might have come with VG33s there. If you are sure you have a VG33 then it should fit.

 

I am not sure. Might be, since the knock sensor is meant to detect detonation. If your engine ran lean during the stumbling/stalling it could have caused code PO0325 (someone please correct/add if I am completely wrong or missed something)

 

There is something odd with my engine...spring last year, I ran some horrid fuel (only gas station around) and it messed with my fuel system. Said fuel caused the engine to miss and detonate ( I could hear the pinging) yet my knock sensor never went off. After that fuel tank, I used a fuel additive to get rid of impurities in the fuel and got some good gas. Didn't have issues again until late last year when the car started stalling while idling.

 

I should have never sold my Scangauge II. I could be using it right now to monitor fuel pressures and such when the engine stumbles/stalls. I might need to get another one.

My 2002 have a VG33, I went out lastnight to a mechanic, we observe even if i step on the gas pedal it wont rev up and it start to shake/stamble until i release the gas pedal then it will shift. he told me to check the catalytic conveter and remove what ever is in there. is this a good idea?

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My 2002 have a VG33, I went out lastnight to a mechanic, we observe even if i step on the gas pedal it wont rev up and it start to shake/stamble until i release the gas pedal then it will shift. he told me to check the catalytic conveter and remove what ever is in there. is this a good idea?

 

Funny you should mention this as there is another thread just posted where the culprit appears to be either the o2 sensor(s) or the cats. Maybe I should remove the cats now... :lol:

 

Seriously though, thank you CHAOSMARINE for this.

 

I had an MAF go bad in a Mazda Protege but the stumbling and white smoke started as soon as the ignition started. There was a ton of white smoke. My Pathfinder doesn't stall until it's warmed up really good and there is no smoke what so ever.

 

Although, I did find this on another forum, won't name it, don't wanna get banned from here already. lol ;)

 

Problem:

"I drive a 1996 Nissan Pathfinder SE (4-Wheel Drive). About 2 months ago, my check engine light started coming on. Some of the symptoms I was experiencing were an abnormal idle, stalling (when completely stopped or slowing to a stop), hesitation, and a lack of acceleration. About a month ago, I took it to an Autozone and discovered the codes were for multiple misfires and the knock sensor. I replaced the spark plugs (which were long overdue anyway), then took it to a mechanic who replaced the rotor and cap. Thankfully, this fixed the hesitation and lack of acceleration. It also cleared the multiple misfires error code, and the check engine light has not come on since. However, it did not solve the abnormal idle and stalling. In fact, the engine has now started to stall more frequently. It starts back up with no problem, but in order to prevent it from dying out again, I have to stick it in neutral and hold down the gas pedal every time I stop at a light."

 

Fix:

"My problem ended up being the mass air flow sensor (which I had seen posted in other areas of the forum as the possible culprit). I initially tried replacing the spark plugs, then the distributor (hoping it was something simple and inexpensive). Unfortunately, that didn't do me any good (although replacing the cap initially helped for a day). I finally had to bite the bullet and take it in to a mechanic, who properly diagnosed it. He said would tap the sensor (while the engine was running), and the engine would sputter out. Apparently, it has something to do with an element in the sensor or something like that (sorry, I'm no mechanic). Anyway, it cost me $345.00 to get it replaced, but I haven't had a problem since."

 

Maybe that'll help? I guess I'm gonna try it but it'll be a while, at least a few weeks.

 

This just makes me feel all better since yesterday I ordered a $#itload of parts (all four o2 sensors, MAF, fuel pump) and I still have to replace my distributor.

 

 

Had the same problem before, it was the entire distributor. You could see a small black area on to where it was arching to the body. Another thing i had to replace was the positive connector to the battery. Removed those crappy terminals, cleaned up the wires and installed nice connector J-Block that had two openings that I could install the two smaller gauge wires. Worked like a charm.

Good Luck on the distributor. Hopefully that has resolved the issue.

 

Hey Timmons,

 

I did not notice any arcing or burn marks on my dist., just some rusty areas. Regardless, I think tomorrow I am going to replace my distributor and if that does not work, next on the agenda is the fuel pump, MAF and o2 sensors (whenever they arrive) :blush:

Edited by Bluewulf73
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Ok, so I removed my distributor and other than the slight surface rust on some parts and a bit more play than the new one, there were no other issues I could find.

 

Changed it and everything seemed fine for a while. Then I put it in reverse and it bogged again.

 

So, that is negatory on the fixin' department for:

 

Distributor

TPS

AICV

plugs

wires

cap/rotor

 

Next to try:

 

MAF then,

Fuel Pump then,

O2 Sensors then,

EGI relay (apparently these fail as well...this relay powers the injectors to fire fuel into the cylinders.)

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Funny you should mention this as there is another thread just posted where the culprit appears to be either the o2 sensor(s) or the cats. Maybe I should remove the cats now... :lol:

 

Seriously though, thank you CHAOSMARINE for this.

 

 

This just makes me feel all better since yesterday I ordered a $#itload of parts (all four o2 sensors, MAF, fuel pump) and I still have to replace my distributor.

 

 

 

Hey Timmons,

 

I did not notice any arcing or burn marks on my dist., just some rusty areas. Regardless, I think tomorrow I am going to replace my distributor and if that does not work, next on the agenda is the fuel pump, MAF and o2 sensors (whenever they arrive) :blush:

Did you to nissan? can you provide me the part numbers? thanks

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No, not nissan. ORdered from Rock Auto.

 

 

 

950-7002 DENSO Fuel pump with mesh filter

5S2718 Ultrapower Mass Airflow Sensor

SG351 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Downstream Left

SG284 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Upstream Left

SG291 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Upstream Right

1564101 Beck/Arnley Oxygen Sensor, Downstream Right

 

 

Yeh, can't wait for my parts to arrive (shipping today only :lmao: ) She's losin' it Capt'n...won't hold together...much...longer! :shiftyeyes:

Edited by Bluewulf73
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No, not nissan. ORdered from Rock Auto.

 

 

 

950-7002 DENSO Fuel pump with mesh filter

5S2718 Ultrapower Mass Airflow Sensor

SG351 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Downstream Left

SG284 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Upstream Left

SG291 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Upstream Right

1564101 Beck/Arnley Oxygen Sensor, Downstream Right

 

 

Yeh, can't wait for my parts to arrive (shipping today only :lmao: ) She's losin' it Capt'n...won't hold together...much...longer! :shiftyeyes:

Thank you for this information. if you can help me also for the knock sensor. and harness.

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Ok, so I removed my distributor and other than the slight surface rust on some parts and a bit more play than the new one, there were no other issues I could find.

 

Changed it and everything seemed fine for a while. Then I put it in reverse and it bogged again.

 

So, that is negatory on the fixin' department for:

 

Distributor

TPS

AICV

plugs

wires

cap/rotor

 

Next to try:

 

MAF then,

Fuel Pump then,

O2 Sensors then,

EGI relay (apparently these fail as well...this relay powers the injectors to fire fuel into the cylinders.)

This part can fit to VG 33E?

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This part can fit to VG 33E?

 

 

This part can fit to VG 33E?

 

According to Rock Auto they do. Rock Auto Knock sensors.

Cant recall. But is one of you cats clogged up? Maybe off roading could have hit one hard enough its dented up bad and causing restriction?

 

I've checked the cat converters. Neither of them are damaged...at least not the exterior of either of them. Not even the pipe comnig out of them...still driving me crazy...stalled on me today...used 1/4 tank is running so rich...out of just 125KM...I smell raw fuel at every stop and it smokes so black I've been mistaken for a diesel.

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Fuel pressure regulator test. <br />Check the injectors one or many might be sticking. <br />Also check test every component of the EGR system. <br />Did you get your new maf in or try. A new one yet from a donor car? <br /><br />Sent from smert fone<br /><br />

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I didn't read the whole thread but I wanted to throw in my 2 cents. If it's running that rich that's un-burnt fuel getting into the exhaust which is bad for the cats and I bet the exhaust headers and the cats are glowing red. So first thing's first, I wouldn't drive it like that.

 

There could be multiple reasons why unburnt fuel is entering the exhaust, however, the most likely reason is something is wrong with the ignition system- foul'd plugs, o2 sensor, timing/distributor or MAF etc. I had this happen to me once on my motorcycle when the battery cable came loose. It drove me nuts until I found the culprit, so check the basics if you haven't already.

 

I'm assuming you could disconnect the MAF to rule it out? It should run in the richer setting but not so rich as to stall nor should it emit black smoke. O2 is unlikely because you will typically get a code. Speaking of which do you have any codes right now?

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I didn't read the whole thread but I wanted to throw in my 2 cents. If it's running that rich that's un-burnt fuel getting into the exhaust which is bad for the cats and I bet the exhaust headers and the cats are glowing red. So first thing's first, I wouldn't drive it like that.

 

There could be multiple reasons why unburnt fuel is entering the exhaust, however, the most likely reason is something is wrong with the ignition system- foul'd plugs, o2 sensor, timing/distributor or MAF etc. I had this happen to me once on my motorcycle when the battery cable came loose. It drove me nuts until I found the culprit, so check the basics if you haven't already.

 

I'm assuming you could disconnect the MAF to rule it out? It should run in the richer setting but not so rich as to stall nor should it emit black smoke. O2 is unlikely because you will typically get a code. Speaking of which do you have any codes right now?

Hey STIOC,

 

Originally it did not run rich, it just stalled. After changing the plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor and AICV it stumbled more than stalled, with the stalling happening once out of every five or six times the car stumbled. Then the TPS was changed and that did nothing. Finally, I changed the distributor and even that did nothing for the issue.

 

There are six more issues/things to replace that I've read could cause this issue.

 

1 - MAF sensor. I have orderd a replacement and am awaiting its arrival

 

2 - EGI relay (powers the injectors and controls their timing?)

 

3- Fuel pump (replacement is on its way)

 

4 - Fuel pressure regulator (not touching that until I know its not one of the other things, sicne it requires the removal of the IM, again)

 

5 - Injectors (same s the fuel pressure reg. Not touching until I have changed the easy things)

 

6- O2 sensors (Ordered and awaiting their arrival)

 

I have no codes whatsoever, other than the annoying P0325 which pops up whenever the engine stumbles for more than 30 seconds.

 

If none of these fix the issue, I'm gonna say its the PCM. I have chcked and re-checked all electrical connections to the battery and all the components. It is weird. The pathy'll start stumbling once warm, but not always and there is no one condition I can atest to that makes it do that. Yesterday it ran fine most of the day but s soon as I got home, as I was trying to park, it started stumbling and it took me like 3 mintues to park for fear that the engine would surge after it realised it was almost stalling...freaky thing!

 

I was thinking of splurging for a Scan Gauge II in order to monitor fuel pressure, air flow, etc...just not sure it'll be worth it.

Edited by Bluewulf73
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If replacing the MAF sensor doesn't work, have you confirmed that it isn't a vacuum leak somewhere that is worsened when the temperature increases? Maybe there's a hose or a tube that is rigid at cooler temperatures that causes a bigger leak at higher temperatures. Assuming your ignition is working properly, tumbling/stalling would be caused by either too much fuel or too much air.

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Stumbling is likely due to an ignition miss, which is also causing it to shoot black smoke out the tail pipe. I would verify the distributor installation to make sure the timing didn't get messed up. Although even with a distributor it probably uses the cam/crank position sensors to control the timing? I don't know the VG33s. As for the code, why not replace the knock sensor because that could very well affect the timing and making the car run rich depending on how the ECM is interpreting the signals.

 

After that and replacing the the MAF I would bring it in rather than throwing more parts at it.

 

ScanGuage II reads the info from the OBDII port so not all signals are available, it requires some special X-Guage codes to read the not-so-typical (or even some typical) signals which may or may not work. I have it and I haven't been able to see my O2 or trans temp data.

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