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Power Steering Box Removal


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Its time to replace the power steering box. Doesn't look terribly hard but wanted to review several items.

 

I took a 3/4 inch socket set to a pitman arm bolt on a JY pathy and there was no way I was moving it. Just looked in the FSM - 175-195 lb/ft torque on that bad boy.

 

I'll take a 2-3 foot pipe to the JY, but is it ok to put that much force on the arm the steering box? any possibility of bending something in the box? I'm trying to think of a way to neutralize the steering on a JY truck and cant really think of one since they don't have tires and aren't on the ground. Any ideas? I am in an apartment now and have no bench or work area, but I have tools and a private parking spot.. EDIT: Just thinking about it, the steering stops will take the load, not the box internals, wont they?

 

Bolts to the frame are only showing 96 lb/ft in the FSM so that's a non issue (did I mention I have 3/4 inch socket set?)

 

Final question - it looks like I will want to unbolt the steering column U-joint from the steering box "stub shaft". Does the steering shaft have any play in it, or is the only way to separate the u-joint and the box to move box?

 

Installation on my truck will be easier I think as it will be on its own tires, and the the pitman arm has been replaced before with a Calimini HD by the PO - and he doesn't tighten things nearly as tight as factory :P

Edited by Inyourface1650
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Thinking about further. Use the pipe/wrench combo to get the pitman arm bolt loose, then remove tire rodes, then remove pitman arm entirely and THEN remove from frame. only question is that pesky u-joint....

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Good luck removing the pitman arm. They are notorious for getting stuck on there. I have broken several pullers trying to get them off, as have others on the forum.

 

My suggestion is to get the box off with the pitman arm still on it, and then take it to a shop where they can get the pitman off with a press or something.

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I have removed a few pitman arms. Trick is to get the nut off first, then apply pressure with the puller while heating the area with mps gas torch and do it in stages. one stage of tightening the puller a bit, keep the heat on it, then tap the side of the splined area with a hammer. Tighten the puller more, heat more, hit with hammer. A few tries like that and they just about always come loose. Only one I couldn't get off was one where the shaft threads were so rusted I count get the main nut off. If u get that nut off the rest should be fine if u do what I did.

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Never successful with a puller...PB blast it...I used a pipe wrench and cheater piped to get the nut loose...then I hit it on the side of the pitman with a 3lb sledge until it breaks loose on a 15-45° angle down on the side of the arm...leave the nut on the bottom 2-3 threads so u don't hit herself when it breaks free and resulting in a broken shin or foot....I can get them off in less than 5 hits...leaves a flat spot(s) but doesn't bend it as long as u hit it as close to the gear box as possible

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The exhaust was the cheater bar...and all my tools...

 

2012-01-14_13-42-14_937.jpg

 

 

U can kinda see where I was hitting

 

2012-01-27_18-18-35_67.jpg

 

Don't mind the grinder marks...that was for this...the marks I'm talking about are on the pitman on the top right side of the boss where they broach the splines

 

The grinding was for this

2012-01-27_19-17-22_927.jpg

Edited by unccpathfinder
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Yeah mine is completely shot. I just rebuilt the entire front end thinking I have had blown out all my TRE's, and nope, they were solid. Calmini TRE's aren't cheap either....Its the box. I have the Calmini Pitman arm on my truck, but I'm really not that worried about it coming off, its just the rusted on factory stuff that's killer.

 

I have a nice 24oz hammer so if it comes to that, it comes to that. I've been meaning to pick up a Burnzo anyway....just got a good excuse!

 

I have no place but a parking spot to work on this unfortunately, so its gotta be as clean(fast) as possible...

 


Edited by Inyourface1650
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Yep...after 2 years ago in moab I did that...currently on the ole lady's truck...I bent an idler arm...idler arm brkt...pitman arm...3 center links...and about a dozen TRE's in 3 days of what id call light/medium wheeling in moab

 

The pitman arm gusset is too close to the tre so its ripped the boot but its all good for now...I'm sure they will need replacing as soon as we get on the trail

Edited by unccpathfinder
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so I went to the JY today, and it seemed to me that all the of JY trucks had just as much slack in the steering shaft as my truck. I define this as turning the steering wheel shaft without the pitman arm turning. So I didnt end of up getting any of them. I was talking to a gent though and he thought that there was a pre-load on top of the box....any thoughts?

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There is a adjustment on the box. I was going to adjust mine, but the lock bolt and adjustment bolt were seized together. Another joy of my truck spending 2-3 years in the rust belt.

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