bigheadlarrylee Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Hello... Any advice would be greatly appreciated... Not sure if anyone else has had this problem, but my engine will stall/die while driving. I have a 1994 auto and this usually happens when I let my foot off the accelerator while slowing down to a stop sign/red light or into a turn or just pulling into a parking space. The frustrating thing is that I can drive the truck normally for a while and then the engine dies when i coast to a stoplight. I've actually been driving two-footed for the past couple of weeks now One foot on the brake and the other applying a little gas so the engine does not stall out. There were a couple of times when the engine started and idled very roughly (a lot of smoke from the tailpipe) for a couple of minutes before smoothing out and sometimes it just idles roughly period. What I've noticed this week is that it is burning a lot more fuel than usual. I've looked online and apparently, there may be a number of causes... mass air flow sensor, idle air control valve, throttle body, leak in vacuum lines, etc... not sure where to start. I've brought it into the shop when it's happened before, but of course they could not replicate the problem and the check engine light has never come on. Thanks for reading! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo94 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Start by checking your codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 not in my pathy but in my dodge, a faulty idle air control valve will cause stalling on sudden decelleration. I would check there first (after checking for codes). A bad MAF or bad harness to it will make it run like crap all the time. A vacuum leak usually affects accelleration or idle, not decel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I had the same problem, this is what fixed it for me, not a problem since. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33554-information-on-rough-idle-engine-stall-when-braking-slowing-to-turn-wdreaded-250-rpm-death-idle/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Yes, it could be several things, all the way down to coolant temp sensor for the ECU. I'm afraid you will just have to start checking things to rule them out. Start by downloading a free copy of the FSM, thread is pinned in the Garage section. With that you have some good trouble shooting info and can test the resistance of the coolant sensor and the MAF wiring, etc. Don't be discouraged, just start checking and you will find the culprit. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Try checking your codes, apparently it can have a code but not trip a CEL. From there (unless it points you somewhere specific) I'd check the connections for your sensors in case one of the plugs is corroded or a ground wire is getting iffy. As Precise1 said there are a few things it could be. Good luck, I know from experience it's no fun driving an auto with two feet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 My pathfinder was doing the same thing. I added an extra ground to the mas. I put a new connector on also. I have read that the mas will drop the ground, not sure why. That is a possibile fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990pathy Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 my pathy is doing this thing only when its cold (first start up or start it then just go) it will putter out and die.. it will start right back up and be fine after that. but i was thinking it was the temp sensor for the ecu havnt tried anything yet but i did give it a tune up and it runs alot better but still dies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tovapa Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 hello, replace filters, clean MAF, I had done this and runs a lot better. cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 ya check the codes first, after that go through and check/clean all the electrical connectors for the engine sensors, mainly the maf. if any pins are loose then use a small pick and tighten them again. also check engine grounds, use a digital multi meter and check in "ohm" mode to test the resistance of the ground circuit of the vehicle. with the car off, put one test lead on the negative terminal of the battery and then use the other test lead and go around touching random metal parts in the engine, check against the sheet metal of the body, the engine block, the manifolds, etc. if you see ANY resistance (anything other than 0 ohms) between these points you need to add a ground wire to that area or replace the ground wire that is faulty in the area. dirty electrical connectors and weak grounds will cause all sorts of issues for nissans or any other car for that matter. easiest and usually free things to check and most probable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 I have the same issue on my manual 92 pathfinder. dies on me at stop lights it has done it before like 2 years ago and it was the wiring on the maf but it seems to be fine right now I am going to try the add the extra ground though and see if that fixes it. I might also try to check that idle air control valve and see if that can be the issue also. It had just got a tune up 2 years ago and hasnt had many miles put on it since. Seems doggy and under powered but its weird the problem is intermittant. I can sit there and drive around no problem then randomly will just die when i start putting the clutch in and i have to hold on the gas to keep it running. Last time i tried to run the codes it gave me 55 which i think is normal operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 I had the exact same thing, was maf wiring (loose connector pins) so it was intermittent and would run rich normally but livable but doggish and then when coming to a red light to stop it would try to die or...die. tightened up the pins and its been great ever since... could also be fuel pump but that would be dying cause of too lean rather than bogging from too rich from bad maf wiring. A wideband o2 is really nice to diagnose problems... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 installed the harness and it runs now with out stalling out at idle but....still idles around 500-600 when its at operating temp is that ok? Does it seem like that normal or should it be around 750rpm? also seems kind of boggy yet...could be my clutch slipping or something else..i cant get it to run any codes but i know my o2 is old and my clutch is about shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 There is also a very small.(about 5 inch long) vacuum hose back by the firewall that connects from the back of the intake plenum to the fuel regulator. If you look real good from the driver side you can see it, or put your hand back there from the passenger side you can feel it. It is known to have frayed ends from heat and years and not draw a vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator. I have even seen them just fall off entirely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Not sure if i'm too late to help but take off your rubber "boot" from the air filter to the intake. Bend it and check for cracks tears ect. Mine had that exact problem and replacing that fixed it. I had two huge tears at both ends and tons of cracks in the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 I checked the fpr vac line and i had remembered i replaced it last summer when i did valve cover gaskets. I also have a cold air intake so i dont have the factory air box anymore (had it for years). It hasnt died on me yet since i installed that nissan hardness that adds the extra ground but it seems like such a turd and idles at the 500-600 mark when warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 A lot of good tips in this thread! There is also a very small.(about 5 inch long) vacuum hose back by the firewall that connects from the back of the intake plenum to the fuel regulator. If you look real good from the driver side you can see it, or put your hand back there from the passenger side you can feel it. It is known to have frayed ends from heat and years and not draw a vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator. I have even seen them just fall off entirely. Very good! That one is a bugger, I learned about it when I stripped my first pathy... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srp1975 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Just fixed the same issue last weekend turned out to be the coolant temp sensor for the ecu . 15 dollar fix and back on the road no drinking exorbitant amounts of fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 purchasing that right after work!!! ha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 just to confirm the coolant temp senor for the ecu is one of the ones right by the radiator cap right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 (edited) ANyone have the two part numbers for those two sensors right there by the rad cap? I am thinking its these but not sure. this is chts so i dont need this i dont think (could that be the issue also? I have never replaced that before either ik its picky on the z31) http://www.courtesyparts.com/22630-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor-pathfinder-wd21-08/1989-07/1992-vg30e-p-542585.html?cPath=5572& these are the two correct ones right? http://www.courtesyparts.com/22630m-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor-pathfinder-wd21-1987-1995-p-543472.html?cPath=5572& http://www.courtesyparts.com/25080x-sensor-temperature-pathfinder-wd21-08/1989-07/1992-1993-door-08/1988-07/1992-v/2d-08/1986-08/1988-w/2d-p-545874.html?cPath=5572& Edited May 24, 2013 by edicer2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 just to confirm the coolant temp senor for the ecu is one of the ones right by the radiator cap right? Follow the top radiator hose from the radiator to the engine. There are two plugs there. Its either a green or yellow end on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 I checked the fpr vac line and i had remembered i replaced it last summer when i did valve cover gaskets. I also have a cold air intake so i dont have the factory air box anymore (had it for years). It hasnt died on me yet since i installed that nissan hardness that adds the extra ground but it seems like such a turd and idles at the 500-600 mark when warm. 500-600 is way too low...... If the ECU temp sensor doesnt help I would definately get a timing light and check your timing. Make sure to do it with the AC and all lights, fan, etc off and transmission in neutral. The distributor timing being off a few degrees could also cause low idle a turd-ness. Woudlnt hurt to replace the sensor AND check the timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 As a follow up turd-ness can also be from clogged catalytic converter or bad O2 sensor (which wont cause a CEL or ECU code). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 (edited) Well i replaced the temp sensors and that didnt help....going to try the O2 next...never replaced that yet and had 150k miles on it. If that doesnt do it ill do the chts when i get around to getting the tstat replace. I also bought a timing light so i will check that first and if its not off ill keep buying the above parts (should be 15 degrees right?). Edited May 31, 2013 by edicer2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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