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I think i found my suspension clunk.


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While rebuilding my swing away warning sensor, my buddy poked around my rear suspension inspecting bushings and sway bar links, nothing look terrible except for the ugly shocks which will be replaced shortly. (Despite what the asshat at les schwab said, telling me all of my trailing arm bushings were blown)

 

However, we stumbled upon this...

 

8456900531_f9dc7a8b82_c.jpg
8458000188_cc447aef22_c.jpg
It suppose to be mounted to the top, at least according to the other side it is. lol
And judging from how clean the inside of my coil is, im gonna go out on a limb and say its been flopping around in there causing my suspension clunk. :shrug: , either way it needs to be changed.
So i think, im going to replace that when i do the rear shocks, but she hasn't been knocking recently. so im still equally puzzled at what the heck is going on with my pathy as i was before today. :headwall::suicide:
But thought id share because alot of you helped with this, ill update my findings and let you know how it went.
-Kyle

 

 

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:lol: A loose rubber bump stop? I'd call that good news as it will not be expensive to replace.

 

I dont know, well find out, im going to get some money in the bank and give Rob a call, have him order me some parts.

 

Agreed. How did it come loose? Did the bolt back out?

 

 

Looks like the bolt is still in place, but the rubber just rotted away.

 

 

Looks to be the case, hopefully its an easy change.

 

-Kyle

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I've had mine out twice when playing with 2 different sized rear springs. I actually removed the stops, placed them inside the longer coil springs, installed the coils, then remounted the stops. My thought is that if I can do it with springs in place, you can have it done in minutes with a new stop.

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And judging from how clean the inside of my coil is, im gonna go out on a limb and say its been flopping around in there causing my suspension clunk. :shrug: , either way it needs to be changed.

 

I doubt that's what's causing the clunk. I've had that thing bouncing around for a while, until I replaced it with Airlift, and never heard any noise. If it had come off with the metal plate that was holding it up, then it would probably clunk, but since the bolt and the plate are still in place, it's just rubber. :shrug:

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I doubt that's what's causing the clunk. I've had that thing bouncing around for a while, until I replaced it with Airlift, and never heard any noise. If it had come off with the metal plate that was holding it up, then it would probably clunk, but since the bolt and the plate are still in place, it's just rubber. :shrug:

 

that's my thinking too, but it is genuinely the only thing that is not correct in the rear suspension, the Sway bar links look good, from what i can see the trailing arm bushings all seem to be fine, sway bar bushings are good.

 

But that does reminds me, i forgot to mention this, we inspected the front ball joints and found a tiny amount of grease next to the passenger ball joint, but im claiming that due to the recent CV boot replacement, because other than that dismal amount of grease, the joints were DRY. But ill jack it up and give the wheels a tug and a hit with a hammer or two, see if that explains the knock.

 

-Kyle

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I wouldnt think that would be the clunk noise either, but at this point I have no idea whats causing mine either. Went underneath and dont feel or see anything loose. My struts were replaced during the strut recall and all the strut mounts,bearings,etc were purchased from Rob and replaced. All looks and feels solid up front.

Edited by GRNMACHINE
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But like i had mentioned, im going to give that ball joint a good smack (On the tire, see if i can re create the sound) and see what happens, if the bump stop wasn't it, its new front ball joints.

 

-Kyle

 

Wait you replaced the ball joints already? Just about every replacement one doesn't come packed with grease, just enough to keep the joint lubed and not rust while they sit waiting to be sold. If they were put on dry there's a good chance they're ruined already.

 

I wouldn't think a rubber bump stop would make a clunk. All it does is stop the suspension travel, doesn't hold anything in like was already said. That's the job of the perch.

 

Also, just because the rear link bushings "look" good doesn't mean they are. The suspension, road, and weight of the vehicle make things move a hell of a lot more than a human wiggling things will.

Edited by Kingman
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Wait you replaced the ball joints already? Just about every replacement one doesn't come packed with grease, just enough to keep the joint lubed and not rust while they sit waiting to be sold. If they were put on dry there's a good chance they're ruined already.

 

I wouldn't think a rubber bump stop would make a clunk. All it does is stop the suspension travel, doesn't hold anything in like was already said. That's the job of the perch.

 

Also, just because the rear link bushings "look" good doesn't mean they are. The suspension, road, and weight of the vehicle make things move a hell of a lot more than a human wiggling things will.

 

Nope, i haven't replaced the ball joints yet, and if the joints are sealed units, how do you go about greasing them?

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If your clunk is coming from the front, check your sway bar links. Mine were shot when I bought the car & were clunking like heck. I put new ones on but one of the bolts came a bit loose & it started clunking again until I tightened it up. I also had a clunk from the steering rack, the pipes were leaking allover the drivers side rubber mount & had eaten it away so my steering rack was moving around a bit. That clunk was when I turned from one lock to the other so that was easy to ID. If it clunks over bumps I'd go for the sway bar links. :shrug:

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Nope, i haven't replaced the ball joints yet, and if the joints are sealed units, how do you go about greasing them?

 

Ah ok, I read your post a little wrong. If they're sealed they're loaded already, but if a boot pops you're SOL for regreasing and keeping them alive.

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Ah ok, I read your post a little wrong. If they're sealed they're loaded already, but if a boot pops you're SOL for regreasing and keeping them alive.

 

No worries, i think the ball joints are Original and if they need changing, im just going to get oem, because raybestos are only 3$ less than OEM, so OEM IT IS, still rough a $71 a pair from courtesy, well see what Rob has to say to that price.

 

-Kyle

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No worries, i think the ball joints are Original and if they need changing, im just going to get oem, because raybestos are only 3$ less than OEM, so OEM IT IS, still rough a $71 a pair from courtesy, well see what Rob has to say to that price.

 

-Kyle

 

 

Rob says......

 

D0160-0W025 JOINT ASM, BALL, LOWER

$62.91 each

Includes a new lower castle nut and cotter pin.

 

 

 

Being up north might I also suggest the three piece bolt to attach the ball joint to teh lower control arm and the nuts for those bolts if they are rusted:

40179-1C10A THREE-BOLT

$11.08 each

qty needed:2

 

08912-8421A NUT

$0.90 each

qty needed:6

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Used to use Courtesy, they were always good to deal with and alot cheaper than local.... then I found Rob thru this website. Prices are better, shipping is faster, AND you cant beat the info and being able to talk with someone who cares and has ALOT of info when it comes to Pathfinders!!

 

Re: balljoints, Moog used to be the stuff, keep hearing about their quality decline. Have them on my other SUV, probably installed 3 or 4 years ago. I like the fact I can grease them! Will have to check out other recommendations on the site. And on the other hand, dont see how you can go wrong with OEM either, mine have lasted almost 14 years now! And with sealed you dont have to grease them.... Hmmmmmmm

Edited by GRNMACHINE
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Rob says......

 

D0160-0W025 JOINT ASM, BALL, LOWER

$62.91 each

Includes a new lower castle nut and cotter pin.

 

 

 

Being up north might I also suggest the three piece bolt to attach the ball joint to teh lower control arm and the nuts for those bolts if they are rusted:

40179-1C10A THREE-BOLT

$11.08 each

qty needed:2

 

08912-8421A NUT

$0.90 each

qty needed:6

 

Oh yeah, i knew you'd come through, that's cheaper than some of the aftermarket options!!!!!

 

And my car has lived in washington all its life, so as far as rust goes, i should be okay, but you know who ill be ordering from after i get a chance to inspect them.

 

does that "three bolt" kit, include all three of the bolt needed, very likely a stupid question ,but Nissan part names confuse me. lol

 

Used to use Courtesy, they were always good to deal with and alot cheaper than local.... then I found Rob thru this website. Prices are better, shipping is faster, AND you cant beat the info and being able to talk with someone who cares and has ALOT of info when it comes to Pathfinders!!

 

Re: balljoints, Moog used to be the stuff, keep hearing about their quality decline. Have them on my other SUV, probably installed 3 or 4 years ago. I like the fact I can grease them! Will have to check out other recommendations on the site. And on the other hand, dont see how you can go wrong with OEM either, mine have lasted almost 14 years now! And with sealed you dont have to grease them.... Hmmmmmmm

 

Yeah, i've had the pleasure of speaking to rob for parts already, happily with my new datsun family member (77 280z) I get a nice big NISSAN box on my doorstep.

WOOHOO!!

 

I might give MOOG a second chance, but on something that is going to be much easier to change.

 

-Kyle

 

-Kyle

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The three bolts that go through the lower control arm and into the ball joint are connected together by a piece of metal in a L shaped pattern.

Thats the best way I can describe it.....

 

 

Thanks grnmachine and ferrariowner for the kind words. :beer:

Edited by Alkorahil
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