ferrariowner123 Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 those coolant shots i took are at running temp, your termo is fine. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 (edited) The thermostat is fully open at 176. I had the A/C on and was stuck in traffic for a while then I was idling in my driveway for a few minutes, which is why I was at 185. How long does it take your Pathfinder to reach 176? Intake air temp depends on outside temp, and the throttle body is heated so that can increase it too (although the intake air temp sensor is very close to the beginning of the air intake, even before the air box, so I dunno if the throttle body coolant lines can affect it). Mine got to 130ish once! Edited February 20, 2013 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 well, in the winter time it never reaches it instead of the gauge being at 1/2 its at around a 1/4 but if we get days in the 50's it comes on upto half. winter time 10ish miles to get to a quarter, summer time bout 1 to 2 miles to start coming up. the main thing that concerned me is i can drive it 20miles at highway speed and the lower rad hose is still cool. i mean as in outside temp cool. like nothing is flowing i just did a rad flush a little while before winter. so maybe my water pump is on its last leg or something because the return hose is supposed to be "warmish but cooler than the top hose" if your rad is cooling the liquid. .../shrug maybe everything is fine and my pathy just is cold has a cold nature in the winter but im thinking there is something going on. my gas millage in the winter was 15 to 18. 18 was when i babied it hardcore. those numbers were after a complete tune up right before winter. before that it was 19 solid. so when the summer rolls back around it should go back up to 19 + because gas is a little different in the winter from what i understand. we will see. I know for a fact my fast idle cam "thermo element is toast" and the other day i was changing the radio antenna saw a pretty steady coolant leak and found it coming from the thermo element so i will have to yank the intake again and probably just unplug it and cap the connection. leak solved. i found a thermo element for 150 bux but fast idle at start up isnt worth that to me. ever since i bought it would start kindof trip out a little for 5 seconds or so then come upto idle speed. so im thinking the thermo element hasnt worked sinced ive had it. i have some upcomming projects comming up that i will try to document at least with pics, maybe some vid. i still havent figured out how to get the antenna into the cab i see the original grommet where the original power antenna goes, i will probably just cut it before the power antenna motor and splice it into the original antenna way easier than pulling the entire dash, i already loosened up the fender to get to where i needed to go. sorry to get off topic. take care guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 I know mine's got a different engine and all but the heat gauge always goes up to the middle... no matter how cold out it is. It takes a little longer when it's cold out, but by the time I get to school (10-15 minutes, most of it at 45-50 mph) it's up to temp. I do occasionally take longer trips, and it's never overheated on me, so it's not running hot or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 (edited) On R50s, the coolant temp gauge gets in the middle at about 152 degrees F. I don't know at what temp it starts climbing past the middle, hope I never find out too. It's really a dummy gauge. Edited February 20, 2013 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 oh and another thing that makes me think my thermo is stuck open "sorry forgot to include this i guess" when i ran the heater this winter, it actually made the needle go down so that usually a sure sign of a stuck open thermostat, im just happy it is stuck open rather than closed because i didnt want to mess with it till it warms up a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 On R50s, the coolant temp gauge gets in the middle at about 152 degrees F. I don't know at what temp it starts climbing past the middle, hope I never find out too. It's really a dummy gauge. The temp gauge doesn't start moving from "middle" until about 216°F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stioc Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 At times, when offroading I've had mine up to 208F according to ScanGauge - that's when I roll the windows down and crank the heater on so as to not crack the radiator For reference on a brand new GMC Acadia maintains 210F as its normal operating temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 The temp gauge doesn't start moving from "middle" until about 216°F ya that sounds right. i think my thermo is like 190ish and when its doin right its just below the middle mark and dont really deviate from there. it will be getting warm soon and i can do several things to it that i have been needing to do. "all hoses, all belts, "including timing", possibly seals in the front of the motor, cam x2 and crank. and water pump and thermostat. probably knock it out in one go. shouldnt take more than....1/2 a decade or so ;P realistic if i dont have to do the crank seal, im thinking 3 to 4 hours. if i run into probs 8 hours plus, usually the way it goes. im sure everything will function normal after i throw that bag of parts at it. ps dont forget the belt tentioner for the timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Well, i THINK I FOUND IT!!! But please confirm Can a failed post cat O2 (bank 2 sensor 2) cause these problems? A friend of mine says it does, i just want to confirm. Pics of error codes are a new symptom.... really inconsistent mileage. Just wanting a second opinion before i go plop money down on a sensor. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howie Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 (edited) Does your scan tool detect voltage from the actual sensor? I have a Nissan Datascan that does this. If not, you'll have to find the proper terminals and use a multimeter. At any rate, to properly diagnose the O2 sensor, you have to do the following (from the Service Manual): 1) Start engine and drive vehicle at a speed of more than 70 km/h (43 MPH) for 2 consecutive minutes. 2) Stop vehicle with engine running. 3) Set voltmeter probes between ECM terminal 72 (HO2S2 bank1 right signal) or 71 (HO2S2 bank 2 left signal) and engine ground. 4) Check the voltage when racing up to 4,000 rpm under no load at least 10 times. (Depress and release accelerator pedal as soon as possible.) The voltage should be below 0.57V at least once during this procedure. If the voltage can be confirmed in step 4, step 5 is not necessary. 5) Keep vehicle at idling for 10 minutes, then check the voltage. Or check the voltage when coasting from 80 km/h (50 MPH) in 3rd gear position (M/T), “D” position with “OD” OFF (A/T). The voltage should be below 0.57V at least once during this procedure. 6) If NG, go to “Diagnostic Procedure”, EC-246. The key here is that the O2 sensor voltage should be fluctuating. If you can't get the voltage to fluctuate, then the O2 sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. Otherwise, the problem may be elsewhere, like a faulty circuit (check your grounds, they could be loose or corroded), or a problem with the MAF sensor. I've had to replace a faulty O2 sensor, but the MIL came on to alert me to the problem. Did your MIL come on, or did you just find the code by scanning it? It's possible that the MIL didn't come on yet because it's an intermittent code, which could indicate a failing sensor or a faulty circuit. Edited March 4, 2013 by Howie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRNMACHINE Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 I had thought my lower MPG was caused by bank 2 sensor 2 post cat drivers side. I was told by mechanic it has no effect on MPG. Ended up replacing to pass emissions anyway. No change on MPG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 (edited) The rear oxygen sensor only determines efficacy of the cat. It has no effect on MPG. A new direct fit Bosch sensor shouldn't be too expensive from AAP, I'll find it a bit later. Edited March 4, 2013 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Grr, ill order the front two and rear one, but i do have a voltage detection with my sensor, and all it does is (For that sensor) is flat line, rarely will it escalate out of the .3 or .4 voltage that it hangs out at. Thanks for the input guys. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Grr, ill order the front two and rear one, but i do have a voltage detection with my sensor, and all it does is (For that sensor) is flat line, rarely will it escalate out of the .3 or .4 voltage that it hangs out at. Thanks for the input guys. -Kyle be sure u wiggle the wires where it plugs in at the 02 and the harness to make sure u dont have a bad connection. And post cat sensors on our vehicle has no effect on the engine control. im almost sure ur o2 sensor 1 swap outs will help ur gas a lot. we shall see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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