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So im out of ideas on my MPG. (Hate to make this thread)


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i have a pretty good tip, unplug it and get a LOOONG wrench :laugh: .../shrug not really any useful info hear, u can see it in your exhaust right before the cat. and driver side with all the gobbledy gook....maybe go in throught the fender well? sorry mine have held up so far so im not sure the best way to go about replacement

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well i have a little update, i was able to get my mileage up,

 

 

8458016354_072bffa8a8_c.jpg
Following the advice of fixinto, did an experiment on the last tank, and tried shifting as much as i could, at, or under 2500 RPM, but there was a lot of highway driving on that tank as well, i think im going to get a new exhaust made soon, after i get the suspension fixed, and oil leak contained, i've heard that unlocks some more horsepower and MPG, plus sounds FRICKIN AWESOME, i've heard the VG33 with a flowmaster 40 series, sounds so throaty, i love it and cant wait to have it done.
I might throw a Bosch universal upper O2's at it, see what happens, who knows, might go up, but the $800-$1000 investment in new headers would never pay themselves back in gained MPG.
Maybe down the road if i need to a serious engine overhaul wil they get replaced, but she is running like a champ.
My ego is a little bruised but its money in my pocket. lol
Ill post an update if that tank is an anomaly and let you know where i go from there.
-Kyle
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Dude I feel sorry for you, I run the same tires, and the only way I get that bad of mileage is 100% city driving and idling a lot because it is very cold here.

 

I was routinely able to get 20mpg on highway trips out of my fathers old 2000 r50 (5 speed).

 

My word of advice on o2 sensors, they can be bad and not make the SES light come on, can just be bad enough to make your mileage ******. I would not use universal o2 sensors. Just another place for wiring to muck up.

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Spend the extra few bucks and get a factory replacement, it'll be worth it in the long run. Flowmasters sound good yeah, but they're a baffled muffler instead of a straight through perforated metal type so there's more restriction.

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Dude I feel sorry for you, I run the same tires, and the only way I get that bad of mileage is 100% city driving and idling a lot because it is very cold here.

 

I was routinely able to get 20mpg on highway trips out of my fathers old 2000 r50 (5 speed).

 

My word of advice on o2 sensors, they can be bad and not make the SES light come on, can just be bad enough to make your mileage ******. I would not use universal o2 sensors. Just another place for wiring to muck up.

 

Okay, i kinda was thinking of doing the same, are the ones on RockAuto good? (bosch)

 

Spend the extra few bucks and get a factory replacement, it'll be worth it in the long run. Flowmasters sound good yeah, but they're a baffled muffler instead of a straight through perforated metal type so there's more restriction.

 

I thought the 40 series was a straight pass through?

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Okay, i kinda was thinking of doing the same, are the ones on RockAuto good? (bosch)

 

 

I thought the 40 series was a straight pass through?

 

Baffled, and when they break apart or rust out it's a really throaty sounding obnoxious rattle box. :lol:

 

They do make a straight through style though. And Edelbrock brought back they're straight through perforated mufflers, they sound really good.

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Baffled, and when they break apart or rust out it's a really throaty sounding obnoxious rattle box. :lol:

 

They do make a straight through style though. And Edelbrock brought back they're straight through perforated mufflers, they sound really good.

Your kidding, weird, well i have heard the 3.3 with a 40 series, SOUND amazing with a 2.25 cat back, so that is what im going to do.

 

But my understanding it a flow through gives more power, baffled not as much, wont the new piping open her up a bit as well?

 

our roads are not salted in Washington, happily, rust is a non issues, at least we can ignore, my buddies 00" rango has 130K on the clock, (his family has had it from 50, i think), there is no rust, the only time we found some was between the radiator support and the fender mount, (metal on metal). same with his 86 BMW, given it spent 10 of its 27 in colorado, the only rust is from a failed antenna grommet, Pathy i cant say the same, but still, a non issue.

 

Bosch is the original manufacturer of the OEM parts, so they should work fine. AAP might be cheaper after discount codes, so check there too. Don't forget about the RockAuto 5% code either.

 

sounds good, next payday its new O2's for the front.

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Really? What was the cause of the failure? Bad spot welds? What would you recommend getting that's similar to that?

 

The goal I'm going for is better foal, and no god awful drones, just some nice throaty grunt with some butt dyno gains.

 

-Kyle

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Couldnt be happier with the sound of the Magnaflow I had installed. Even went so far as to bring my other SUV with a Flowmaster Force II Catback to the owner of the muffler shop to see if he could swap out muffler with a Magnaflow. Magnaflow has lifetime warranty as well. It does have a drone in the cabin though which can be annoying to some. Re: mileage, cant say I noticed any increase with it. And I dont think I get any better gas mileage than you do. I stopped checking it. Dont have a scan-gauge, sure interested in one. Been using something called the paper, pencil, calculator, reset odeometer method at fill-up... And re: O2 sensors, I would definitely go with Bosch or NTK as already stated. They are plug and play/no splicing. For whatever reason, I had thought NTK were OEM (maybe got confused with NGK plugs (same company), and KYB shocks etc, too many 3 letter names... Anyway, best price at the time was Amazon. Spent way too many hours replacing post cat drivers side to find out it was a Bosch (as already stated). May have to look into the fronts as suggested also. Gas Prices going back up again, close to $4 a gallon.

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I have an additional question for you if you don't mind. Does your temp gauge come all the way up to normal operating temperature? reason being, a lot of times until the ECU reads the normal operating temp, it will run of preset data instead of reading your O2's, yes your ride will run, maybe not even that bad, but it runs way better and gets better mpg when its reading from the O2's. difference in open and closed loop pcm operation. hmm thats about all i have to add. have a good one. :lol:

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I have an additional question for you if you don't mind. Does your temp gauge come all the way up to normal operating temperature? reason being, a lot of times until the ECU reads the normal operating temp, it will run of preset data instead of reading your O2's, yes your ride will run, maybe not even that bad, but it runs way better and gets better mpg when its reading from the O2's. difference in open and closed loop pcm operation. hmm thats about all i have to add. have a good one. :lol:

Yup, im fairly sure, ill check it when i get to school tomorrow, but i dont think its an issue, i might just get an OEM while im ordering from ROB.

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Is it possible for the computer to be stuck in open loop even with the engine warmed up? I know my VG30 has two sensors for the coolant (on the metal bit that hooks to the upper rad hose, forgot its proper name), and my understanding is that one is for the computer, the other for the gauge. I couldn't back this up with the FSM though so I could very well be wrong, and even if I'm right, the VG33 could very well be different. If I'm right though, maybe fixinto's on the right track and the computer's keeping it in warm-up mode.

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Is it possible for the computer to be stuck in open loop even with the engine warmed up? I know my VG30 has two sensors for the coolant (on the metal bit that hooks to the upper rad hose, forgot its proper name), and my understanding is that one is for the computer, the other for the gauge. I couldn't back this up with the FSM though so I could very well be wrong, and even if I'm right, the VG33 could very well be different. If I'm right though, maybe fixinto's on the right track and the computer's keeping it in warm-up mode.

Ya man, the vg33e has 2 also. one under the intake manifold a little "i think" and one in the top. been a while since i looked at that section of the FSM. but i remember i have 2 because i priced both @ auto zone.

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The way see it, just because you can see through it does not mean it flows better. The thing about perforated core mufflers is that hot exhaust gasses expand through the perforations and when the expand they cool and slow down. Then the next exhaust pulse slams into the back of the cooling expanding one and also slows down. All these pulses expand through the core but must eventually contract again at the other end where they are competing for space with the remaining gasses the did not fully expand through the core. This action interrupts your scavenging which relies on High exhaust pulse velocity to create a vacuum at the collector to pull the next pulse behind it and thus draw more air into the engine during the valve overlap period.

 

Baffle mufflers, when the baffles a sized correctly, keep the gasses from expanding too much and keep the velocity up. There are MANY different baffle designs some are very restrictive (OE and OE replacements) and some flow pretty well.

 

Of course, good baffles like flowmaster and Perforated core/ glass packs both flow way better than stock and the flow difference between the two styles is not anything you will notice in the seat of your pants on a daily street driver so go with the sound that pleases you most!


I love the sound inside and out of my magnaflow with a turn down . My other pathy has a FM50 which is quieter at idle and sounds great from the driver seat and all around outside but it has a bad drone in the back seat at about 2800-3k but I think that may be due to it having such a steep transition to the stock tailpipe.

Edited by MY1PATH
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Hey there just an update for you, i downloaded the free version of torque and ordered a wireless bluetooth OBDII reader. there is a widget in torque that actually tells you when you are in opened and closed loop. i would check and see that yours is switching over. I suspect i have a bad thermostat and mine still goes into closed loop after a decent warm up.

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Yeah, i bought it, don't regret it for a second. SO AWESOME, but it is annoying not get up to date telemetry but it works for data logging which i have done, and its AWESOME!!

 

What widget is it? the emission monitor? or the raw data?

 

-Kyle

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This is my Torque setup:

 

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/12783812/torque/2013-02-19%2015.48.04.png

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/12783812/torque/2013-02-19%2015.48.33.png

 

Idiot forum software won't let me image tag those for some reason - "You are not allowed to use that image extension on this community." No PNGs? What is this, 1996?

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tnere u go thats the one i saw. Although my intake gets upto about 54 to 80 and my coolant never got above 177. but i think my therm is stuck open. i have the free version of torque and got the same readings. mine still went into closed loop tho, its been doing a lot better since i got a 2 and 1/2 inch chrome painted plastic crap bent at 60 degrees from the parts store. my little boot that connects the throttle body to the rest of the intake system had a small crack in it. ran fine, then it became a big crack and not so much. would be happy to buy torque but was laid off from my job friday so.....probably not right now.

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