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My AC lift is all done. Sitting pretty on 33"s.


snow4me
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It looks like you have a lot of replaced suspension parts there. LCA, inner and outer TRE's, struts and sway bar. Was your ride in a serious accident?

 

*edit ... even the half shafts and the break lines look like they've been replaced. eusa_eh.gif?

Edited by devonianwalk
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I did replace a lot of stuff. Sway bar is original, just powdercoated. 140,000 miles so I figured it was time for a complete rebuild. I really hoped to be done with it for a long time but that isn't looking to be so.

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Hey snow4me

Pull that top bolt out, loosen the lower bolt, don't pull the lower bolt just loosen it, now put your floorjack under the lower control arm just under the ball joint mounting spot use a block of wood or rag to cushion if you don't want to scratch things up, cause damn that rig is clean. Lift the assembly up a little in order to simulate pre-load or weight of the vehicle. It dosen't have to be exact just enough to see if that gives you enough space to pivot the top of the knuckle inboard.

Take a pic and get back to us.

 

"Solutions not problems"

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Just a quick question how much did changing all the suspension parts run you. I have 300k on all my stock parts and I'm think when I do the sfd this spring I'll swap everything as well. Just want to ball park it.

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That CV angle is about the same as what I was getting with the spacer installed. Even with the spacer off I still have a tiny bit of positive camber. When I get the time & energy I'm still going to elongate the top hole, then a SFD later.

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I don't know if we have an issue like your pics show on our Pathys?

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Sorry,

Can't really get a good idea of exactly what's interfering. I thought it was hanging up on the knuckle.

Is it hanging up on the CV joint housing that goes into the hub?

No no no, go back to my pic of the top view looking down at the spindle where the top bolt goes through. The top of the spindle is touching the strut body with the 4 degrees of camber already dialed in. What I'm saying is... I think even if I slot my top strut hole, the spindle can't move any closer to the strut because it's pretty much touching it already. Now, slotting the lower hole towards the wheel, not the engine although not advised would be doable. Does this make any sense?

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No no no, go back to my pic of the top view looking down at the spindle where the top bolt goes through. The top of the spindle is touching the strut body with the 4 degrees of camber already dialed in. What I'm saying is... I think even if I slot my top strut hole, the spindle can't move any closer to the strut because it's pretty much touching it already. Now, slotting the lower hole towards the wheel, not the engine although not advised would be doable. Does this make any sense?

 

O.K. now I got it, wow that's a good one. Never thought that could happen. I think a little opening of the bottom hole towards the wheel is alright but probably not going to be enough and you're right, you don't really want to cut that direction. Is the strut the correct unit for your year and model cause this seems weird? Now that I think about it, when I did mine I just moved the spindle in at the top as far as it would go and just figured it was at the limit of the elongated hole and not up against the strut as is yours. I just put he wheel on and lowered the truck and didn't even look at the spindle to stut interference. I have a little positive camber on both as of now but I'm not using spacers either and did a 2" SFD. If the control arm, sub-frame and strut top mounting locations are not bent or damged it's hard to figure out what's going on.

Gonna think about it and get back to ya.

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What brand of struts are those? Maybe the strut body diameter is a few mm larger than others like the KYB GR2, and that is preventing the needed clearance between the knuckle and the strut body. I'll have to go measure the diameter of my KYB's and check the clearance from the knuckle to the strut body (using stock bolts).

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They are GR2's but they are black, not gray. I would be interested in the strut diameter as well. I REALLY appreciate all the interest and help on this. I haven't had time this week to mess with it but hopefully this weekend I can. You know how family can get in the way of our hobbies. :-)

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just a though i had while looking at another thread could it be that that the angle of the spacers being straight be the problem i know i doubt it myself as i will soon be running them but i know on subframe spacers they have to be angled to keep within spec could this be an issue.

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You could be on to something "shoesandsocks"

I think because it's only 1" that they figure it dosen't have to be angled because you might get the angle increase out with camber adj. down at the spindle. But I guess using AC coils with the 1" spacer is just too much.

I'm sorry that I said the words AC coils, strut spacers bad camber issues in a pathfinder forum.

But I have a gut feeling something else is up.

 

Look at this guys CV, tie rod and control arm angles

 

angles_zps45c7cca7.jpg

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Geeeezzz ... I'm starting to feel that I'm lucky with my "no camber problems" after theexbrits and snow's issues. I had my AC springs for a couple of months before I bought my 1" spacers from PAmountainbiker. The only camber adjustments I've made was from using four camber bolts (two per side) that I installed when I put the new strut assembly together on the initial install. I have had zero problems from the lift. I even had crazy front flex going over some rocky trails w/o my cv's "grenading". Maybe when this weather clears I'll go out and take some pics of my front suspension.

 

This pic is with Vajayjay in 4-lo. No funny sounds. No grease splaters. Just shaking up the beer in the cooler in the back!

 

403184933.jpg

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Geeeezzz ... I'm starting to feel that I'm lucky with my "no camber problems" after theexbrits and snow's issues. I had my AC springs for a couple of months before I bought my 1" spacers from PAmountainbiker. The only camber adjustments I've made was from using four camber bolts (two per side) that I installed when I put the new strut assembly together on the initial install. I have had zero problems from the lift. I even had crazy front flex going over some rocky trails w/o my cv's "grenading". Maybe when this weather clears I'll go out and take some pics of my front suspension.

 

This pic is with Vajayjay in 4-lo. No funny sounds. No grease splaters. Just shaking up the beer in the cooler in the back!

 

403184933.jpg

Maybe you're on to something?

 

Beer cooler in the back !!!!!

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Geeeezzz ... I'm starting to feel that I'm lucky with my "no camber problems" after theexbrits and snow's issues.

 

I'm with you buddy! This issue is so foreign to me. I've had the same success as you except I put the spacers in at the same time as the AC springs. Couldn't be happier with my setup, been running around problem free for about six months now. Aside from the occasional "top-out" from going over a speed bump too fast or hitting a big pothole..

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maybe you have a rusted left shock tower per the FSB and its a little wonky making everything out of whack? =) i think u can get it checked at nissan anytime being a recall and all.

Love the way ur truck looks, i want those tires for mine after i finally get a lift = \

 

 

Dear Santa.......

 

Anywho have a nice day, hope you get your pathy probs worked out because the truck just looks too darn cool to not leave it that way.

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i do want to side track but i just think its really cool how the whole community jumped to help a fellow member not a lot forums come together like that

 

Tell me about it! Hopefully I can get some wrenching time in tomorrow. I am very thankful for all you guys on here.

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