2001 manual vs 2002 Automatic

[max]

Hello!

 

Questions again Here what makes me to ask:

• I have 2001 SE, 3.5 manual transmission, air conditioner.
• Have some problems with my car (engine eats oil - 1 liter per 1500 km (~900 miles), transfer have some noise, and others minor things looks like need service).
• New parts are extremely expensive in our region.
• R50 wasn't on Europe market and there is almost no chance to find used parts. Used parts from US + shipping are close to new parts at price.

Have an idea to find used car in Europe for very good price and buy it for parts. But as I see all R50s that can be found are of 2002 year and on automatic transmission and climate control.

 

So difference is (my, donor):

• 2001 vs 2002
• manual vs automatic
• conditioner vs climate control

 

Here is a question: Is it possible to swap engine, transmission, etc?

 

To tell the truth I feel like no problem from mechanical point of view but a little worry about electrical components (like ECU, etc).

 

So, what do you think guys?

[Kyle94]

IIRC its not worth it to swap manual truck to an auto transmission. the TCU is not there. unless the r50's have the tcu in the ecu. then i dont see why not. but going from manual to auto matic is generally not easy.

[Towncivilian]

R50s have separate TCMs.

[Slartibartfast]

If you have an auto trans car and a manual trans car, I see no reason you couldn't interchange parts between them. Your manual trans truck probably has mounting points for auto trans components, and you could pull the wiring from the donor car. I'm not saying it would be an afternoon project with a beer break in the middle but it should be doable.

 

That said, oil consumption is a common issue on the VQ, something about the design of the PCV valve (or so I've read). They get scummy inside and start sucking oil. IIRC some people put a moisture trap sort of thing in with the PCV to catch the oil that gets through. They can be replaced (might not be an option for you) or cleaned out with solvents, and I see no reason why a better-designed PCV couldn't be integrated (for a whole lot less than buying a donor, which would likely have similar issues anyway).

 

If the donors you're looking at have automatics and climate control, there's a good chance they'd have an auto transfer case as well (which I'm assuming yours doesn't). Again it could be swapped, or you could see if there's anything else in your area that Nissan used the same case on. The WD21s use the same (as far as I know, don't take my word for it) TX-10 manual transfer case as the R50s, so if you can find a wrecked WD (or a transfer case rebuild kit for one) you could probably use that.

[Tungsten]

There is one big difference between the two. The automatic has a different variable length intake manifold with power valves while the manual has a regular intake manifold.

[max]

R50s have separate TCMs.

According to service manual you are right. So, it makes possible to swap only engine or both engine and transmission.

 

 

 

If you have an auto trans car and a manual trans car, I see no reason you couldn't interchange parts between them. Your manual trans truck probably has mounting points for auto trans components, and you could pull the wiring from the donor car. I'm not saying it would be an afternoon project with a beer break in the middle but it should be doable.

Oh, yes, but I believe that I know right guys that can do all the stuff, event if mounting points does not match

 

 

That said, oil consumption is a common issue on the VQ, something about the design of the PCV valve (or so I've read). They get scummy inside and start sucking oil. IIRC some people put a moisture trap sort of thing in with the PCV to catch the oil that gets through. They can be replaced (might not be an option for you) or cleaned out with solvents, and I see no reason why a better-designed PCV couldn't be integrated (for a whole lot less than buying a donor, which would likely have similar issues anyway).

I read some rumors about VQ35DE. Already bought PCV valve, seals and gaskets . Also, some sources said that it sucks oil because some oil channels in valve covers are clogged by dust, and it really helps to replace covers or clean them. Also, I've read that when VQ35DE have problems with clogged catalysts, ceramic dust from catalyst is sucked back with gasses (due to pressure difference) to cylinders and during some time it makes cylinders bigger (I've already cut-out catalysts, and had some fun with second lambdas ). From one side this is good engine that should be repaired only after one million kilometers, and my has only 250 000 km (160 000 miles) and theoretically it should not need repairing right now, so it makes me believe in PCV valve or similar theories, but from other hand - I'm not the first owner and don't know this car history. Also, mechanics says that they can tell something only after opening engine and measuring everything. And my friend fix his engine recently by replacing some parts (rings, etc), and it cost (work + parts) like more than half of a donor. Also, I believe that fixed engine will not run as long as factory one will do. Also, donor should give me a lot of other interesting parts.

 

There is one big difference between the two. The automatic has a different variable length intake manifold with power valves while the manual has a regular intake manifold.

I'm sorry, my English level and theory knowledge does not allow me to correctly understand this. Can you please just say if this allow to swap manual to automatic or what does it mean for me? Thanks!

[Towncivilian]

I have not heard of the clogged catalytic converter problem.

 

Power valve screws are a must to apply threadlocker to (preferably red as you shouldn't have to remove these again for any reason) when you are replacing your PCV valve. I would also install a PCV catch can while you're there to collect blow-by vapors and keep the intake cleaner.

 

 

This guide on NICO is a DIY guide on reaching the PCV valve, and this post shows an example PCV catch can set up.

 

Automatic VQ35DEs have power valves in the lower intake manifold which actuate by a vacuum. They open when a certain amount of throttle is pressed. As long as you match ECUs (i.e. use an auto ECU with an auto engine) you will not have any problems.

Edited December 31, 2012 by Towncivilian

[max]

I would also install a PCV catch can while you're there to collect blow-by vapors and keep the intake cleaner.

 

Thanks for the interesting info and cleaning up difference between manual and auto versions. But you know ... right now my the biggest pain is the oil consumption (5w30: 1 liter per 500km (1 quart per 310 miles), 10w40: 1 liter per 1500km (1 quart per 932 miles)). The question is how big PCV catch can should be in my case? Yes, PCV valve should be replaced, and it is good to install oil catch can and do IM maintenance, but I sounds like those procedures could not help to avoid such big oil consumption. (or I'm just not understanding something again)

 

I think before making final decision about dealing with donor I should find-out what I need to fix front vibration problem, and measure cylinder compression (dry and with oil). Then will see if I have a chance to fix all issues with affordable amount of resources or it is reasonable to buy a donor.

[Towncivilian]

Have you checked your power valve screws? With such excessive oil consumption it sounds like a power valve screw (or more than one) could have been ingested and caused damage.

[max]

Have you checked your power valve screws? With such excessive oil consumption it sounds like a power valve screw (or more than one) could have been ingested and caused damage.

No, but I'll check.