Jump to content

How/Where did you mount your power inverter?


Precise1
 Share

Recommended Posts

I ran across what seems to be a decent deal at autozone for a 1000 watt power inverter (2000 surge) for $99; sale ends Tuesday. I get $20 back on my autozone card so less than $90 out the door with 2 3' cables included. It's got most the bells and whistles like remote capable, digital draw/charge meter, USP port and thermal fan. It seems to be the older 1000 watt model by a company called Voltec, a division of Tasco?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Duralast-1000-Watts-digital-inverter/_/N-4blw?itemIdentifier=973845_0_0_

http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/voltec_1000.html

 

Ok, the sales pitch is over and my concern now is where to mount it. It is a bit large at 4"x7"x9" and wants a flat mounting surface and some airflow. I want to mount it in the vehicle, preferably up front also but to do this the provided cables are far too short. I'm considering installing a second battery (smaller AGM) under the hood where I currently have my oil filter relocated to which would get power closer, but I think I'll need to get longer cables regardless.

 

Thanks for the patience, my questions are what type/size and wattage do you have, where did you mount it and how did you wire it. Any links to wiring requirements are helpful (but I can google too) and feel free to review yours, describe your usage, etc.

 

Thanks in advance guys! :beer:

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5523's amp was an idea for my inverter, but because I need continuous access to mine while sometimes driving, I mounted mine to the center console on the backside. Its small enough to fit there. I don't have any pictures and right now it's removed so that I could squeeze a few people into the backseat. I wired mine directly to the battery and included a relay, and wired into the fuse box on the dash so that if I forgot to turn the inverter off, it would still cut out once I turned the truck to "off". Looks like a great deal, I've considered beefing up from a 400W to a 750 or 1000W but it'd require me to install a second battery and a much beefier alternator. I tapped through the rubber cap in the firewall on the passenger side to run the wiring through to the battery. All the wiring is hidden too. Just make sure to caulk or close up the hole as best you can.. been mudding a few times only to get water and mud through the hole. But it's been solid!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Although I have not actually installed mine yet, my plan is to mount it in the same general location as 5523 has his amp, with heavy cables running back to it (so it can operate at full power) and a remote power switch. Although, since my truck came with an internal spare tire mount, I have a compartment there. Since I no longer use the mount for a spare I plan to remove it and place the inverter inside the compartment, with 1-2 fans for cooling, if required (# based on actual need.) Now for access, my plan is to wire outlets in throughout the truck, with 1-2 each up front, for the rear seats and the back cargo area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, maybe a front option....

 

PIC_0027.jpg

 

I don't know how big the inverter is, but I mounted my cb in the center console. Yes, I did loose the rear cup holder, but it doesn't bother me. Heck, I didn't keep anything important in there anyway. Only had to drill two holes as you can see, to run the wires in and out. It's mounted with Velcro from a XM kit(high quality and strong).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, my buddy kinda wanted the same thing as you, so we bought the 1000 watt i think it was from harbor freight a while back and installed it in his Durango. We actually mounted it under his passenger seat. Fit perfectly. But it did have its challenges.

 

We mounted it with the terminals mounted towards the front on the car (power in). Found a 0 or 1 gauge monster amp kit off ebay and used that for a power system and since he is blessed with a body on frame car, we just drilled through cabin floor and grounded it to the frame.

 

For the power out side we used these ( http://www.amazon.co...gree power cord ) and had those run into the regular ole, run of the mill 3 prone extensions and that run to under the dash and then to the back of the car.

 

Hopefully for use to use when we have to time to do more volunteer work.

 

Another friend of mine got a smaller 250 ish watt and he just vel-crowed it the back of the console in his X-Terra.

 

But dont have any reports on they work, sorry. :wiggle:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 1000w inverter that I simply connect to my existing amp cables. I have to remove my sub to make my tailgating set up fit any way. I know your looking for where to permanently mount yours but, thought I'd share my temporary set up. This pic was taken several years ago (pre-lift) at a soccer game in Charleston, SC. Usually we just set it up for the day long football tailgates.

 

404933513.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I never got around to mounting mine yet but my plan is to build a battery box in the back on the passenger side for an AGM and mount the inverter on top. Passenger side because it would be a shorter run of cable from the trucks battery to keep it charged. Then I will run an outlet to the front bumper. An electric hedge trimmer sure beats the hell out of swinging a machete when clearing brush. I'll probably keep an electric chain saw in the truck too.

I have a 2000w harbor freight inverter that serges to 4000w that I paid $149 for on sale. I ran a small window unit A/C off of this inverter once, it's pretty strong!

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

An electric hedge trimmer sure beats the hell out of swinging a machete when clearing brush. I'll probably keep an electric chain saw in the truck too.

Absolutely, we're getting too old for this manual labor stuff anyway! And yes, a chainsaw would be an item I pan to run. Other uses are general camping conveniences, recharging computers, power tools and batteries and in emergency situations for powering my mini fridge and deep freeze in the garage (independently and only a few hours a day).

 

I'd prefer not mounting it in the back due to using valuable cargo space and accessability/wiring issues. My plan would be to run an extension cord back under the hood so it would be hidden and waterproofed and still be accessable through the grill.

 

5523's amp was an idea for my inverter, but because I need continuous access to mine while sometimes driving, I mounted mine to the center console on the backside. Its small enough to fit there. I don't have any pictures and right now it's removed so that I could squeeze a few people into the backseat. I wired mine directly to the battery and included a relay, and wired into the fuse box on the dash so that if I forgot to turn the inverter off, it would still cut out once I turned the truck to "off". Looks like a great deal, I've considered beefing up from a 400W to a 750 or 1000W but it'd require me to install a second battery and a much beefier alternator. I tapped through the rubber cap in the firewall on the passenger side to run the wiring through to the battery. All the wiring is hidden too. Just make sure to caulk or close up the hole as best you can.. been mudding a few times only to get water and mud through the hole. But it's been solid!

Great idea, but unfortunately I've already used that space for my also excessively large CB.

DSC_0077.jpg

 

 

Ok, maybe a front option....

 

PIC_0027.jpg

 

I don't know how big the inverter is, but I mounted my cb in the center console. Yes, I did loose the rear cup holder, but it doesn't bother me. Heck, I didn't keep anything important in there anyway. Only had to drill two holes as you can see, to run the wires in and out. It's mounted with Velcro from a XM kit(high quality and strong).

It's aprox 4"x7"x9". I'll see if it will fit when Poop gets off of my lap. My only concern there is ventilation, drilling holes isn't an issue...

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, my buddy kinda wanted the same thing as you, so we bought the 1000 watt i think it was from harbor freight a while back and installed it in his Durango. We actually mounted it under his passenger seat. Fit perfectly. But it did have its challenges.

 

We mounted it with the terminals mounted towards the front on the car (power in). Found a 0 or 1 gauge monster amp kit off ebay and used that for a power system and since he is blessed with a body on frame car, we just drilled through cabin floor and grounded it to the frame.

 

For the power out side we used these ( http://www.amazon.co...gree power cord ) and had those run into the regular ole, run of the mill 3 prone extensions and that run to under the dash and then to the back of the car.

That might work also, I'll have to check clearances though. Me thinks it would be pretty tight...

 

I have a 1000w inverter that I simply connect to my existing amp cables. I have to remove my sub to make my tailgating set up fit any way. I know your looking for where to permanently mount yours but, thought I'd share my temporary set up. This pic was taken several years ago (pre-lift) at a soccer game in Charleston, SC. Usually we just set it up for the day long football tailgates.

 

404933513.jpg

Damn, that's quite the set up, you freakin fanatic! :D

 

B

 

Oh, this would be what the second battery would probably be. I already have a Optima Yellowtop with 75 AH (new) so that would give me over 100 AH between 2 AGM gel batteries.

http://www.batterymart.com/p-12v-35ah-sealed-lead-acid-battery-group-u1.html?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=CPC&gclid=CPLjrvH9jbQCFWGnPAoduHcAhQ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, it is too big to fit in the center console by at lease an inch each direction and no way will it fit inder the seat with the ducting and ECU down there.

 

So far, other than the back area, these are the only two places I can come up with other than removing the CB, putting it there and getting a smaller CB unit to mount along side the console on the passenger side.

 

This placement limits the seat going all the way forward by 2-3"

030.jpg

 

And this one clutters up the foot well.

031.jpg

 

The more I think about it, the more likely it's going on the back of the console. I already have a sub plate for mounting, and it will be accessable by everyone in the vehicle, even when the seats are folded and a bed is set up in the back.

DSC_0071.jpg

 

Any one want to buy a large but decent Uniden Pro538W?

http://www.rightchannelradios.com/uniden-bearcat-pro-538w-cb-radio.html

 

Damn, apparently this is 'normal sized'. :blink:

This is not going to be easy then...

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good point, although I do like the ducting to the rear, I think it's a good feature. Still there is a module or two under the drivers seat as well, alarm and something else? *goes to look*

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could be, but yes, there are two items under the seat with ducting running between them. The ducting would have to be removed and one of those modules relocated and even then it would be a tight fit. While it would be nice to have it hidden, it doesn't seem readily feasible and certainly wouldn't shorten the cable run so I don't see it as a win.

 

Thanks for the input all, it did help me get the location worked out, and I promise I won't ask what the hell to do with the CB now. :lol:

Wiring is another story though. Of course I'm going to fuse the inverter and when I set up the 2 batteries (one 75 AH, one 35 AH), I'm actually thinking of using the smaller 35 AH as the primary vehicle battery with an isolator on the positive to the second 75AH battery so I can use both for charging/starting/winching/power if I need to. Then I can also isolate the larger battery to run down with the inverter as the inverter will shut off at 10.3-10.8 volts which might not start the vehicle, and still start the vehicle with the smaller battery. Does this make sense or am I missing something?

Also, if I have a good ground from the chassis to the frame and engine, is there a reason not to use one of the front seat belt bolts as the ground for the inverter? That would save a bit of cabling and only have me run a positive cable from the battery to the inverter (on the back of the console) and an extension cord back out to behind the grill.

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My plan would be to run an extension cord back under the hood so it would be hidden and waterproofed and still be accessable through the grill.

 

Maybe drill out the Nissan grill emblem and put a new badge over it, so that it flips up to reveal the outlet?

 

As for mounting the inverter, do you think it could go under the dash? You could make some sort of bracket to hold up the back of it, then cut a hole for the face of it in the lower part of the driver's side dash.

 

If you're going to run out the leads anyway, seems like you could just mount it up behind there without cutting any holes, and run the on/off switch to that blank hole on your switch plate. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've also got a 1000w inverter, and it's installed on the back of the rear seats. I've run 2awg wire, both positive and negative, from the battery, through a 100a marine breaker, to the rear of the truck. I'm quite sure the instructions on mine called for wiring right back to the battery.

 

At any rate, that was the best spot I could find to mount it. Mine, however, has a remote on/off switch (I've yet to install it in the X, but I had it in my WD21). If yours has that option, as well, you could theoretically mount it anywhere, and run a power bar in your center console, or other convenient location.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I once read a thread on another forum I think where the guy actually removed the front face (where the voltage and the plugs are, and put this part concealed in the cab, while the core of the converter was under the hood... It was very slick and it is actually how I want to do it.... I will try to find the article...

 

S.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, that got me thinking again. Good link! :aok:

 

Maybe drill out the Nissan grill emblem and put a new badge over it, so that it flips up to reveal the outlet?

 

As for mounting the inverter, do you think it could go under the dash? You could make some sort of bracket to hold up the back of it, then cut a hole for the face of it in the lower part of the driver's side dash.

 

If you're going to run out the leads anyway, seems like you could just mount it up behind there without cutting any holes, and run the on/off switch to that blank hole on your switch plate. :)

Not a bad idea, but more than I plan to do. I just want a regular 3 plug extension cord end just inside the grill so it can't be seen or accessed without popping the hood. 1/2 of the reason for this is that it would be fairly waterproof if it is tucked away and covered.

 

I'll look at under the dash on the drivers side, but IIRC there isn't enough empty space for it and still have it be accessible while driving. I will look again though.

 

Good call on the switch plate, that goes hand in hand with fleurys link.

I've also got a 1000w inverter, and it's installed on the back of the rear seats. I've run 2awg wire, both positive and negative, from the battery, through a 100a marine breaker, to the rear of the truck. I'm quite sure the instructions on mine called for wiring right back to the battery.

 

At any rate, that was the best spot I could find to mount it. Mine, however, has a remote on/off switch (I've yet to install it in the X, but I had it in my WD21). If yours has that option, as well, you could theoretically mount it anywhere, and run a power bar in your center console, or other convenient location.

I checked, and they said the same thing about connecting to the battery. The back of the rear seats doesn't appeal to me though as they get laid down fairly often for cargo.

 

It does have a remote option, but what I'm finding is that the WD21 just doesn't have a lot of unused space under and behind things. They tucked things away quite well to maintain decent cabin room in a small SUV. :shrug:

I once read a thread on another forum I think where the guy actually removed the front face (where the voltage and the plugs are, and put this part concealed in the cab, while the core of the converter was under the hood... It was very slick and it is actually how I want to do it.... I will try to find the article...

 

S.

Like I said, I like that idea other than the under the hood part. It gets up to 40* C here at times and the under hood temps are much higher. That would probably cause problems for the inverter to keep cool. Still, today will be round two of trying to find a stash spot but with the face plate relocated.

 

Thanks everyone!

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a bad idea, but more than I plan to do. I just want a regular 3 plug extension cord end just inside the grill so it can't be seen or accessed without popping the hood. 1/2 of the reason for this is that it would be fairly waterproof if it is tucked away and covered.

How do you ground the 3rd prong on the extension cord in the AC circuit? In your vehicle, ground is same as negative since the negative battery cable attaches to chassis. In an AC system ground is earth. Would you run a cable to a spike to drive into the ground? I see the inverter has a 3prong outlet. Just wondering how the AC side is grounded.

Edited by BBB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...