jayjay6888 Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 so yesterday morning i remote started my 99 Nissan pathfinder as far as i know it started up fine because when i went out it was running fine already warmed up for me. i drove less than a mile went in to the store to use the atm, then came back out and started the truck again it took a little longer to start than normal but i didnt think nothing off it. i got out of the parking lot and i shut off on me no hesitation nothing just shut off. tried starting it just constantly turns but wont fire ... i have plenty of battery(4 to be exact Car audio purposes) i arch the spark plug i have a good spark disconnect the hose connecting to the fuel rail and i had pressure not sure how much but at least some pressure ...the fuel pump relay works replaced it with a new one i dont hear the fuel pump prime but i have pressure all the way up front after letting the vehicle sit for over 24hrs ....the rotor on the distributor is turning and looks good i disconnected the air intake hose and sprayed starter fluid and brake parts cleaner both of which worked for me in the past when i wasnt getting fuel but neither do the trick now ...im at a loss for ideas battery check starter check Fuel check Spark check compression????? PLEASE help me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Uhmm, welcome to the forum? Do you know if the fuel filter has been changed? You could check compression to see if the timing belt has jumped/slipped. I assume that you have an aftermarket alarm system to protect your high end audio gear. Maybe the alarm brain is going out? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 Could be the alarm ...ill disconnect the brain ...i definitely have fuel I cut the hose connecting the fuel line to the passenger side fuel rail and its a nice steady stream...i have to buy a compression tester at this point im going with electrical like a sensor just don't know where to start Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 The alarm would be my first thought as well. If that's not it, I think you can rent the compression check tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 didnt get off until late tonight but i did some thinking ...if it were the alarm would it allow my vehicle to crank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 I had a faulty alarm brain that wouldn't stop trying to start my engine. Almost wrecked my starter. Most alarms have an engine kill feature to prevent a thief from driving off so, yeah, if the brain is bad then maybe that could be your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 I have a tool that I like to use...you can get it at Autozone...Spark tester. It looks like a pen and has an inductive circuit with an led. You hold it on the wire and you can see if the plugs are getting fire. I think they're only about $10. Here's the one that I have. http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?partnumber=19380LISLE&utm_source=google&utm_medium=nonpaid&utm_campaign=froogleACC&utm_term=19380LISLE&gclid=CMONo7rW_rMCFUxxQgod03YAJg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 disconnected the brain and still the same problem...im going to check spark tomorrow this damn daylight savings time and no garage to work in are killing me by the time i get off its dark... fuel pressure should be around 55psi correct? and i will check spark tomorrow HOW can i check injectors to see if they are working properly? and is there a relay for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 I wouldn't worry about the injectors just yet. Sounds like a spark issue to me. I don't see all 6 injectors going bad at once. Look around the site...I don't have the link, but the manual can be found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Share Posted December 6, 2012 ok so its not spark and its not fuel and its not compression all typical test done . no idea what to do next other than replace the knock sensor and see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 (edited) Do you have any codes??? How did the knock sensor come into play here? ....regardless, I don't think a knock sensor would prevent the vehicle from starting. I would think it would stutter if anything. If you are getting spark and the engine is cranking over, then the only thing left is fuel delivery. (and I wouldn't spray brake cleaner into your intake...it will eat your sensors, maf, tps, etc.) Speaking of....tps sensor might restrict the fuel delivery. Edited December 6, 2012 by 96Pathfinder4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 It's possible the crank angle sensor or camshaft position sensor is throwing causing your no start condition. Check your codes. Your spark timing could be way off due to either of those sensors failing. If you throw a timing light on it while you crank, see if it's in range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Share Posted December 6, 2012 Knock sensor is mentioned because its the only code I have other than o2 sensors which dont interfere with starting ...im going to.check compression tomorrow that will tell me if timing is off Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted December 6, 2012 Author Share Posted December 6, 2012 And the way its set up there are no maf sensor in the way its by the filter which is disconnected right now and tps is out side of the throttle..im spraying directly into the throttle Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted December 7, 2012 Author Share Posted December 7, 2012 ok so its not compression all cylinders were 150psi except 2 and they were 155 and 160psi. with compression like that i know its not timing. ripped the wire for plug number 6(pain in the a*#) by the way if any one has any tips other than taking the intake manifold off would be great because i am going to replace them even though they seem to be fine with the gap test but they are due for a change what are you guys running for plugs and wires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 NGK plugs are the best for these rigs. Use whatever the manual says. For wires any decent brand will work (NGK, Bosch), or OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 distributor.... I had the same problem awhile back and it turned out that I had to put a new distributor in and voila it was fixed.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted December 13, 2012 Author Share Posted December 13, 2012 Turned out to be spark plugs and wires ...crazy they never showed any sign ...im.replacing cap and rotor tomorrow hopefully Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 Turned out to be spark plugs and wires ...crazy they never showed any sign ...im.replacing cap and rotor tomorrow hopefully ...post #1: item 4. I also mentioned that on post #7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted December 21, 2012 Author Share Posted December 21, 2012 Now with cap rotor plugs and wires all changed...it sputters at idle when in gear and acts as if its going to shut off ...then when driving I go to give it gas around 1500 rpm and she stutters then goes...after 2k rpm shes fine no hesitation Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted December 21, 2012 Author Share Posted December 21, 2012 Any ideas? Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 (edited) I'm telling you, its the distributor...... replace it and when you time it advance it about a degree or two and it gives you a little more pep.... or it could be a vacuum leak, I remember when I once tried to put a cold air intake on before I put my snorkel on I disconnected the vacuum lines and hooked them up to the new intake and it ran like dogsh*# but when I put them back together stock it was fine. Look for a crack or hole in your lines off the air box. But most likely its the distributor.... It's not that hard to change, just keep your wires hooked up to the old cap until you get it in and swap them over. Edited December 21, 2012 by muddfildvaynes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 I agree vacuum lines could cause these symptoms . . . also, failing ECM possibly??? Just throwing out ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 Only does it under 2k rpm...and my gas milage is horrible wasnt great to begin with but now a whole tank got me 180 miles where as before id get 250-270 with old plugs, wires, cap, and rotor ...plugs I used are bosch double platinum and duralast wires cap and rotor...think.ngk will make that much.difference Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 Swap out the sheit plugs for regular NGK V powers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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