Jump to content

My New Doug Thorley Headers (Clamp Size)


William
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi. Well .... my Doug Thorley headers recently arrived (Thanks to Steevo).

Everything looks Ok and ready for the install.

 

However, I was puzzled by a small "round cylinder-shape" part that came in the same bag

along with the Bolts and Nuts.

 

Does anyone know what is it for?

 

SmallTube.jpg

 

 

IMG_1191.jpg

 

William

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another question about the same headers.

 

Should I just slide the 2 pipes that connect the EXTENSION PIPE with the Y COLLECTOR, Weld them or put a CLAMP around them to make sure they do not separate?

 

I am slightly inclined towards the CLAMP. Do you happen to know the diameter of these 2 pipes?

 

FinalProduct.jpg

 

William

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Last question about those headers :blush02:

 

I am aware that the DT THY-464-2-C headers for the VG30E need the standard 8mm Studs.

(which I already got from Alkorahil as follows:

 

 

Part # Description Qty

14065-V5004 STUD-MANIFOLD 12

14037-V5005 WASHER-LOCK 12

14039-W1500 NUT 12

 

However, upon measuring the diameter of the holes on my new headers, they came to

be 10mm (which I believe is the size recommended for the VG33E and not the VG30E).

 

Does that make sense to you or am I wrong somehow?

 

IMG_1197.jpg

 

William

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, they are larger than necessary; that is not an error, nor is it a problem. If anything, it makes mounting and aligning them easier as you have some wiggle room. Speaking of which, when you put them on, just barely snug everything until you have the crossover pipe and EGR tube connected, then snug everything. I had good luck with a lap joint band clamp (Walker brand IIRC) to seal the slip joint of the cross over pipe.

Yep, I dug in the garage and found my spare, it is Walker Mega-clamp #33230

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-33230

 

Lookin' good Bud! :aok:

 

B

 

Oh, I merged the three threads just to keep the info together. Since it was a group buy, I'm sure a lot of others will have the same or additional questions. ;)

Edited by Precise1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you swap to vg33, you'll need to drill the holes out on your vg30 exhaust manifold to accept the 10mm studs.

 

Dennis,

 

I am confused. If I swap my engine to a VG33E which uses 10mm studs and use these DT headers. Why do I even need the old VG30E Exhaust Manifolds?

 

William

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You dont, lol, i think Dennis was confused as well. The vg33 has the 10MM and so do the DT's. So now problem there. but if you were to keep your stock manifolds from the vg30 youd have to drill them out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nope. I think mine came with one also but I'm sure I had no use for it. By the cut out on top it appears to designed to be welded to a pipe OD at 90 degrees, but why I have no idea.

 

Thanks B.

 

Does that mean that if I swap my engine for a VG33E, I won't need to "widen" the header stud holes from 8mm to 10mm anymore since they are already 10mm?

 

William

You are welcome, and yes, that is exactly right. 1 size fits engine upgrades. :aok:

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The short tube you are asking about is used on a throttle body pathfinder (87-89). Not sure if it would be used on the 90-95. It is the heated air pick up tube. It is secured to one of the driver side header tubes in a vertical orientation using a hose clamp to secure the tube to the header. Foil duct runs from the underside of the air cleaner to the pick up tube so you get heated air into the engine during warmup on a cold day. Mine came welded onto the header. Your arrangement just allows the pick up tube to be put wherever allows for the best placement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
Yes, they are larger than necessary; that is not an error, nor is it a problem. If anything, it makes mounting and aligning them easier as you have some wiggle room. Speaking of which, when you put them on, just barely snug everything until you have the crossover pipe and EGR tube connected, then snug everything. I had good luck with a lap joint band clamp (Walker brand IIRC) to seal the slip joint of the cross over pipe.

Yep, I dug in the garage and found my spare, it is Walker Mega-clamp #33230

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-33230

 

Lookin' good Bud! :aok:

 

B

 

Oh, I merged the three threads just to keep the info together. Since it was a group buy, I'm sure a lot of others will have the same or additional questions. ;)

That part that comes up is a 2" Lap Joint Clamp... So the crossover pipe is 2"? that's kind of a step down considering the collectors are listed as 2.5"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use the 2" band clamp. Just don't forget to add some sealant on the clamp before you put it on.

 

The collector is made for a 2.5" exhaust pipe but the cross over is 2". I don't see anything wrong with that.

Edited by Tungsten
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both down pipes are 2 inches so by them meeting at a Y-pipe and going into a 2.5 inch pipe actually does nothing. The 2 inch down pipes are still larger than what the factory cross over is. You can reduce the 2.5 outlet back down to 2.25 or even 2 with no problems if you use a special reducer. The reason why they went with a 2.5 outlet is that generally some of the best mufflers are actually 2.5 inches in and out. So you can run a 2.5 inch pipe from the collector back or smaller if you do a reducer so it doesn't just shoulder down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cross sectional area is what matters. If the outlet into the exhaust system is 2.5" then that is an area of 2.5^2*3.14/4= 4.91 square inches. A 2" pipe has 2^2*3.14/4= 3.14 square inches.

 

So since the 2" area is more than half the 2.5" area, there is no problem, it is not a restriction.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both down pipes are 2 inches so by them meeting at a Y-pipe and going into a 2.5 inch pipe actually does nothing. The 2 inch down pipes are still larger than what the factory cross over is. You can reduce the 2.5 outlet back down to 2.25 or even 2 with no problems if you use a special reducer. The reason why they went with a 2.5 outlet is that generally some of the best mufflers are actually 2.5 inches in and out. So you can run a 2.5 inch pipe from the collector back or smaller if you do a reducer so it doesn't just shoulder down.

The collector is where all the primaries meet not where it meets the rest of the exhaust. so its going

1.5" primaries (x3) ---> 2.5" collector---> 2" down/crossover pipes ---> 2.5" Y pipe.

David pointed this out to me He REALLY doesn't like it lol. On the other hand, I can see how a reduction in diameter (usually .25" not .50") keeps velocity up until the merge with the other bank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, if David said... :lol: Nope, the Thorleys aren't perfect, they are just the best out there that is generally available, life time warrantied and CARB legal. Hell, in Cali the biggest cat I can legally mount has 2" input and output, so the Thorleys aren't the choke point. It is still a significant improvement over the restrictive stock set up; the differences you talk about are minor unless you are at high RPM. The Pathy isn't a race track vehicle and who wheels @ 5000RPM? Is 5 HP going to make the difference? :unsure:

 

That part that comes up is a 2" Lap Joint Clamp... So the crossover pipe is 2"? that's kind of a step down considering the collectors are listed as 2.5"

I'll measure/confirm tomorrow.

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The inlet and outlet size of the catalytic converter does not affect its emissions. I verified this myself. The cat has to be CARB certified for it to be legal in California. All a bolt in cat does is include the flanges.

 

The primary collectors (after the smaller primary tubes) on the short tubes seem to be 2" and not 2.5" just like the down pipes and cross overs. The cross overs are also 2" so the lap joint band clamp should be 2" in diameter.

 

The only size change I see is after the Y-pipe where it exits into a 2.5" pipe.

 

FYI the short tubes were actually proven to perform better than the long tube variant on the VG30E. I have to dig that bit of information up again where I found it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only reason why Magnaflow sells bolt-on 2" flange cats is for the factory exhaust system. They are literally made to just drop right in and are not any different internally than their universal converters. You can get a CARB compliant universal cat in your size and weld on whatever flange size you need or just slip it over the pipe and weld it. That will pass inspection. If they were so anal about having a factory exhaust then they would not even let the headers through. The only reason the Thorleys have certification is that they have a EGR bung and they do not remove any catalytic converters out of the exhaust system since WD21s never came with manifold cats. I still have a hard time believing this CA compliance stuff. AFAIK the CARB certification is a must for a catalytic converter to be sold in CA but that's about it. There is still a possibility that I could be missing something. However I got the same numbers out of the machine running a 2.5" catalytic converter and a 2" catalytic converter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ sorry for the thread jack but had to put this somewhere as there are people confused about muffler and catalytic converter size affecting emissions

 

nevermind lets continue here I just came across the older thread

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32573-buying-a-new-magnaflow-cat/page-2

Edited by Tungsten
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only reason the Thorleys have certification is that they have a EGR bung

And because Thorley paid the CARB board an absurd amount of money. I could make a set of headers with an EGR bung, they won't be smog legal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...