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Whats up WA USA?


wolkersdorfer2
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Thanks i heard the 95's have 5x7 all 'round, just ordered me an early christmas present of a kenwood deck and 4 alpine 5.7's for only 200 bucks! will go nicely with my kenwood pair of 12's.

 

as for the timing belt, i am going to get that done ASAP. there is an RPM dependent "tick" which gets louder under load, how common is valve tick on these? my brother has a '91 MR2 which has really loud valve tick which was normal for those engines but i want to make sure nothing else is wrong

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Just dont expect them to bolt in. It will probably take a small bit of modding. I was thinking 6x8 because thats what the Crutchfield guide told me, but I remember finding out that no matter what I bought (I ended up getting some Sony 5x7's) they still didnt fit without some bending. The Crutchfield guide doesnt even list a size anymore?!?! and just says everything is a modified fit! If those speakers you ordered have decent sized magnets it may be more of a challenge.

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Thanks i heard the 95's have 5x7 all 'round, just ordered me an early christmas present of a kenwood deck and 4 alpine 5.7's for only 200 bucks! will go nicely with my kenwood pair of 12's.

 

as for the timing belt, i am going to get that done ASAP. there is an RPM dependent "tick" which gets louder under load, how common is valve tick on these? my brother has a '91 MR2 which has really loud valve tick which was normal for those engines but i want to make sure nothing else is wrong

 

That's the typical broken exhaust manifold studs. They're weeny 8MM studs that break all the time.

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5x7 is the stock size, which is why a 6x8 took trimming. 5x7's are a dying size and getting harder to come by, so they say to put in 6x8's because they're not much bigger.

 

Valve noise is very common on the VG and is often confused as a knock, the VG in my 200sx sounds like it has a handful of rocks are in the crank case after sitting over night, but Kingman is correct, the exhaust studs are very small and eventually break from so many hot/cold cycles and could be the cause of the tick you're hearing.

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Kingman is correct, the exhaust studs are very small and eventually break from so many hot/cold cycles and could be the cause of the tick you're hearing.

broken mani studs causing tick? how does that happen? and if the studs are broken, that seems like a horrible fix in freezing temperatures...

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broken mani studs causing tick? how does that happen? and if the studs are broken, that seems like a horrible fix in freezing temperatures...

5x7 is the stock size, which is why a 6x8 took trimming. 5x7's are a dying size and getting harder to come by, so they say to put in 6x8's because they're not much bigger.

 

Valve noise is very common on the VG and is often confused as a knock, the VG in my 200sx sounds like it has a handful of rocks are in the crank case after sitting over night, but Kingman is correct, the exhaust studs are very small and eventually break from so many hot/cold cycles and could be the cause of the tick you're hearing.

;)

But\ Yeah. Thats exactly why, they are just weak and small. And Repetitive heating and cooling doesn't help.

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Well since i cant edit my post! (WTF!?) The actual REASON they tick is because the exhaust is escaping prematurely. Too close to the combustion. Other than that, idk how to explain it. lol. its just an exhaust leak.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys!

Sorry i havent replied in forever. I havent had any internet access and it is killing me!

I also havent been stagnant in my progress on my pathy as well.

Right now its sitting on new 30" tires with some more aggressive offset, however i am thinking upgrading to 31's to gain an extra inch in width. and would like a tad more poke.

as for fixing things it runs like new! got everything fixed (besides that stupid exhaust mani leak) but still cant find any bull bars of any kind. as for roof racks / lights,

i was going through the woods in a tight trail on a hard right corner, on a steep incline, in the middle of the night. thats when i decided to tackle this project. i am trying to end up with 2 or 4 lights to face forward but have two lights, one on each side, turn in the direction i am turning. doesn't seem too difficult, will keep you guys posted! lets see if i can get some pictures up...

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Steerable lights... do keep us posted. :) I was actually considering doing that to my DLs a while back. Hopefully you come up with something better than my idea, which sounded like enough of a PITA that I still haven't done anything about it. :lol:

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before poke
lBSMt.jpg

 

after poke

4mDbo.jpg

 

sitting on 30"s, see how i would want to go with 31"s? i think they would fill the gap better, look bulkier.

dU19W.jpg

 

some fun

jbP4c.jpg

 

and what do you guys think, bug guard or no bug guard? i kindof like having no bug guard because you can see the iconic nose holes.

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Steerable lights... do keep us posted. :) I was actually considering doing that to my DLs a while back. Hopefully you come up with something better than my idea, which sounded like enough of a PITA that I still haven't done anything about it. :lol:

still dont know if i will go with electrical servos or all mechanical. mechanical might be even harder but i know my instructors will help me out with it if its all mechanical.

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still dont know if i will go with electrical servos or all mechanical. mechanical might be even harder but i know my instructors will help me out with it if its all mechanical.

Yeah, I was thinking servo-driven (with the servo gears replaced with a windshield motor mech) but if you wanted straight mechanical, the centerlink has a tab for a damper, and that's probably the easiest place to hook in a linkage.

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Yeah, I was thinking servo-driven (with the servo gears replaced with a windshield motor mech) but if you wanted straight mechanical, the centerlink has a tab for a damper, and that's probably the easiest place to hook in a linkage.

if i did do mechanical it would probably be cable driven, set to open at full lock, and compress at opposite lock. like the brakes/derailer on a mountain bike.

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  • 3 weeks later...

not too sure if this will clear things up, but I've finished a solid model of the design of how the lights will work, what you're looking at is the light bar held down by magnets, and if you look closely you can see my cursor turning at the rate my steering wheel turns, and the light turning to 75 degrees at full lock. again this is just the design model. since the video i have changed it to 4 lights, (got a little carried away with 6) and added the spring necessary to take the slack up underneath the light bar, since there is no room in between the light and light bar.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Update! So, being a CADD drafter, my original design was very intricate and unbelievably complicated, when you take into account the tools and materials that were available to me. After a complete redesign of the system, keeping the raw mechanical ideas the same, this is what ive built so far.

*please excuse the nasty welds...

_MG_3566.JPG

You can see here where the cable housing fits into the square extrude from the right side plate, directly under the light bar. on the other side of that square extrude the hole is only just over 1/16th inch to allow just the cable through. the cylindrical extrude up in the back is where a reducing pulley will sit, its job is to make it so when i turn a lot, the lights only turn a little. I am waiting on my CNC guy to get those back.

 

_MG_3569.JPG

One of my major problem has been sourcing the magnets. I finally got some! (temporary as it is under the radar)

Since the middle two lights are permanently stationary, i figured i would throw those on. And i am pleased to say those magnets hold it down very well, even at freeway speeds.

 

_MG_3571.JPG

I have been running my truck like this for weeks, it is impossible to find either side corner light or the passenger headlight or the door handle around here. grill is in the back waiting to get put on.

 

I know you guys want to see the lights moving and i promise that will come soon!!

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So, being a CADD drafter, my original design was very intricate and

unbelievably complicated, when you take into account the tools and

materials that were available to me. After a complete redesign of the

system, keeping the raw mechanical ideas the same, this is what ive

built so far.

:rofl:

Being a machinist, I can't count the times I've said "Nice picture. So, how the hell do you expect me to make that?". :lol:

 

B

 

Sorry, I didn't mean that to sound derisive. More like "I understand how designs change according to manufacturability very well". I think you know what I mean... ;)

Edited by Precise1
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Oh i do! I was the one that made that nice picture, then i had to be the one to go make it and i said to myself, "nice picture, now how the heck am i supposed to build this?". I had to change even more because i redesigned around the free materials in our shop, instead of buying "specialty stock" myself. After all, that is what i did with the cable, cable housing, lights, wiring switches etc to make it work, and sourcing those pizza car topper magnets all has put me over $50 (would be $70 more but i got the magnets free)

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