Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

Control arm Bushings, OEM Vs. Polyurethane. Convince me


ferrariowner123
 Share

Recommended Posts

So after taking my rig in to get an alignment (FINALLY), i had them do a once over and they "said" the trailing/control arms had a lot of play (if i get the name wrong, its the arms that connect the rear axle to the car)

 

Now i have yet to go down there an wiggle anything for fear that they were right (pathy needs a-lot more suspension parts and cant really afford this problem)

 

And my question to you is, which style of bushing should i get, if it turns out that the bushings are bad. OEM or Polyurethane?

 

OEM are way cheaper, are i really don't need to replace the blots that 4x4 parts includes with there kit. (don't really have any rust to worry about on my rig)

 

Im leaning more towards OEM because they have served fine for the last 125K. I've also heard that poly makes the car feel stiffer as well. :shrug:

 

As much as i would love to replace the arms with fluery's arms (control arms, smart ass), i really cannot afford them.

 

Thanks

 

-Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I did my oldest boys Jeep, I put poly everywhere and love it. Definetly makes a difference. The poly motor mounts where the most noticeable.

 

So I say go for it, you won't be disappointed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

before doing my aluminium arms, I replaced the oem with more oem ones.... I thought the same way as you (if they did this long, then I should be ok with more of the same thing).... The real problem or cost if if you have someone else change them for you... If they charge by the hour, it will cost you more than buying the complete arm with bushing from nissan or rockauto.... I went this way at the time (hourly rate), and I think the guy worked like 4 hours on them.... at near 100$ per hours, I was not happy.... I think the complete arms go for about 80$ each........

 

After that, I created my alu arms because I kept bending the sh*t out of them..... Since then, it did not happen anymore :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, ive changed bushings before, i know the process, i found your thread from a while ago, with those videos, and its exactly how i changed bushings before, im just wondering what i should do in terms of cost and longevity, just like everyone wants, lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced the complete arms on mine with arms from Dorman. I paid $160 for both arms and it took about 1 hour to do with both OEM arms being seized in the diff side brackets.

 

I was contemplating the aluminum arms from Fleury as well. Maybe in the near future.

 

Another option is to weld some angle iron on the bottom side of the trailing arms for strength.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes but this will only bring you so far if you offroad a bit.... :-(

IMG_0618.jpg

 

LOL exactly what I had in mind...So I guess I'll be ordering some Aluminum control arms from you then. How long would it take for you to ship me control arms, front and middle skid plates in aluminum with the required middle attachment?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL exactly what I had in mind...So I guess I'll be ordering some Aluminum control arms from you then. How long would it take for you to ship me control arms, front and middle skid plates in aluminum with the required middle attachment?

 

answered in pm.

 

S.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced mine with the Dorman OEM style, they went a year later. In fairness I blew out a shock bushing completely, which likely was a big contributor to the failure. After that I went to Poly, I wheel a lot but flex is not really an issue I prefer the stiffer feel and better durability.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced all of mine on my 98, including the panhard rod with OEM bushings and it really didn't take that long.

 

I pressed the old ones out with a Snowmobile piston that I turned down to fit the metal sleeve on the old bushings. All of them came out just fine except for one, which I had to heat a bit to convince it to come out. I then just pressed the new ones in and put everything back together and the truck drove just like new once again.

 

$120 for the bushing package from Nissan and about two hours time invested!

 

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced all of mine on my 98, including the panhard rod with OEM bushings and it really didn't take that long.

 

I pressed the old ones out with a Snowmobile piston that I turned down to fit the metal sleeve on the old bushings. All of them came out just fine except for one, which I had to heat a bit to convince it to come out. I then just pressed the new ones in and put everything back together and the truck drove just like new once again.

 

$120 for the bushing package from Nissan and about two hours time invested!

 

Tom

 

They sell packages?

 

Link?

 

thanks

 

-Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FWIW I used the poly ones in my old 95 and they didn't impede flex as far as I could tell.

Those are 33x12.5 tires. I probably could have went further up that hill lol.

 

Nice, and i just realized that it makes no sense how poly could impeded flex, i mean wouldn't they bind and then practically explode with the weight of the truck?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

poly just doesn't compress as much as rubber. that's all. When you're wheelin hard, every little bit of flex helps.

 

Okay that makes sense

 

I think i have decided, that when i get around to doing the arms im just going to put OEM, if i ever get serious enough about wheeling (when the pathfinder becomes a toy) then i will invest in fleury's custom links.

 

Thanks for the advise guys. But it doesn't really make sense to spend more a on poly when i don't really need to.

 

-Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My OEM bushings were toast at 100k miles (to the point where they were dangerous). I put the 4x4parts.com poly ones on and VERY glad I did because i've only wheeled it harder and harder. Now i'm at 210k miles and they are still great, no problems. Ride is still comfortable as well.

 

If I would have gone OEM, i would probably be doing this nightmare of a job again.... rear control arm bushings are no joke in our SUV's.

 

Poly are great even if you don't off-road. Your wife is gonna hit a curb in a parking lot and crack an OEM bushing, whereas the poly will take anything you can throw at it.

Edited by FUELER
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My OEM bushings were toast at 100k miles (to the point where they were dangerous). I put the 4x4parts.com poly ones on and VERY glad I did because i've only wheeled it harder and harder. Now i'm at 210k miles and they are still great, no problems. Ride is still comfortable as well.

 

If I would have gone OEM, i would probably be doing this nightmare of a job again.... rear control arm bushings are no joke in our SUV's.

 

Poly are great even if you don't off-road. Your wife is gonna hit a curb in a parking lot and crack an OEM bushing, whereas the poly will take anything you can throw at it.

 

You have kept them greased and maintained i assume?

 

-Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...