Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

1996, 5 Spd doesn't idle when I depress clutch, (help, before i take it in)


Recommended Posts

So i just found out that my car should idle when i press the clutch in, while the car is warm and at any speed (first car never knew any better)

 

It will only idle at the correct RPM when i come to a full stop, Sometimes.

 

So i just changed the TPS and got it generally working so that it idles correctly, (still behaves weird when its cold) Im taking it in to Nissan to have it correctly adjusted, ($85!)

 

But can anyone think of a good reason to why it wont idle right? I've read a couple of different reasons why this could happen,

 

Bad TPS: Nope, just put a new OEM (Used) on and got it set, and seemed to fixed some of the problems.

 

Vacuum leak? i don't think so, is there anything hear for with a vacuum leak? I did pull my intake back in April, but its done this none idling with clutch in since i've bought it, back in late '09

 

Bad MAF: (what i think is the culprit) i have a used one in good shape, and i think ill try that one next before i take it to Nissan and say, "FIX!"

 

can anyone else hazard a guess at to why it does this?

 

Thanks

 

-Kyle

Edited by ferrariowner123
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, you say it won't idle and acts weird, can you elaborate? Dose it idle fast? Slow? Dose it stumble and miss? For troubleshooting vacuum leaks you can take a can of starting fluid or brake cleaner and spray short spirts on vacuum lines, intake gasket area and such and if there is a leak the engine will rev up for a second or two when you hit the culprit.

Edited by clkindred
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I'll give a few examples. Before I changed the TPS sensor, it would sometimes bounce between 1500 and 2000 rpms will I had the clutch depressed while it was moving. And it was only after the car had been driving at freeway speeds for 10-20 minutes will it idle correctly. But while it's cold, it was sit at 1550rpms and coming up to stop with the clutch depressed it will shoot up to 2000ish rpms. And its only after I come to a stop for a second or two will it then idle sometimes where it's suppose to. Most of the time it sits on 1100-1500 mark. But I'm going to change out the MAF and then take it into Nissan and have the TPS correctly positioned. And troubleshoot this issue if the MAF change out doesn't correct the problem.

 

And that started fluid idea sounds really clever, I'll have to try it.

 

Thanks for the tip

 

-Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try disconnecting the MAF sensor. This will put it in limp mode. You can drive it, but will be limited. See if it continues to die. If not, it's probably the MAF sensor. Otherwise, double check the timing and somewhere there is a TSB on how to adjust the TPS correctly, so you can do it yourself and save some money. Idle air control solenoid may also be having issue.

 

Edited by 5523Pathfinder
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update, So i have changed the MAF and the TPS, Only seems to add to the problem.

 

Im fairly confident there is not a vacuum leak, but i have yet to really check, if anyone has a solution please let me know.

 

My car using SO much gas, i don't know whats left to do!

 

Im getting to the point of wanting to take it down to my repair guy and just paying, really don't want to, but its shaping out that way.

 

 

What it is doing, is when its cold it will shoot up to 2000RPM on start up and stay there depending on how cold it is outside, sometimes it calms down. when it does calm down it will then only sit to around 1500ish RPM.

Only when it has been on the road driving, for more than 20-30 minutes will it start to behave somewhat normally like idling around where its suppose to, however the original problem for me starting this whole thing was the bouncing idle while the car is moving with the clutch disengaged (which it still does from time to time about as often as it did before) and when its not bouncing, it just idles at 1500 RPM.

 

However now what it is doing is when the car is on and stationary, ill turn the steering wheel the the idle jumps a little (no more than 100-200rpm) which it DID not do i changed the TPS sensor.

 

Its very strange, does anyone have any additional ideas or suggestions?

 

Im totally stumped.

 

Any and all help is appreciated.

 

-Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

I'm going to bump this old thread for anyone who searches and finds this later,

 

I finally check my codes and found that the final culprit was my knock sensor, (check for codes even if you don't have a CEL, mine was stored and was only until i scanned for codes that i found out about the knock)

 

Haven't had a chance to measure the effects of the change, but im confident that the senor was the reason for all my headaches.

 

-Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

did you ever find out for sure what was causing ur 96 to do this? I am having the same problem right now. but it didnt start till i cleaned the TB while doing the V cover gaskets. cleaned maf, "didnt really do anything" adjust TPS, "by adjusting the throttle closed/open sensor per bulletin." its spot on. before i did the work to it, it would stat up, go upto 1200 to 1500 then 7 to 10 seconds later come down to 750. and work fine. i started getting "knocking, Pinging" on the interstate under load so i did a crap ton of stuff to it that i should have done a long time ago. "wires, plugs, button, valve cover gaskets, air filter, , distributor cap. and cleaned the Throttle body. After it started acting funky i found the the hose popped off the fuel pressure regulator behind the intake manifold, so i put that back on but its still meh at best. the idle screw in the intake is all the way in to the point that i cant turn it anymore, "i think i stripped it but dont tell anyone" :laugh: . i was getting 19ish mpg, now im getting 15ish. its killing me in the face. when i clutch it the RPM's go upto 1200 to 1500 and then slowly come down as i come to a stop. the lowest rpm at idle is 800 with the heater wide open and the head lights on, no load its closer to 900. it wouldnt even be that big of a deal if it weren't for the 4mpg diff in gas milage. as far as the knock sensor, from what i read around the forum, most of our pathies has that code like all the time and it wont trip the CEL, or MiL wutever u call it. so i fugured i screwed the pooch by cleaning my old TB. and probably need to replace it.

 

Anywho, if u figure out the problem for sure and get it fixed, PLEASE pass it on, cause i would like to know for sure that im throwin the right part at it before i do it, because most of the ones im suspecting are 150ish bux per.

 

 

anyways have a good one.

 

PS the knocking / pinging is completely gone. hehe

 

1996 SE 4x4 VG33e,manual 5speed trans, 31x10.5 bone stock pathy

Edited by fixinto
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you run a code reader through it? looking for stored codes?

 

and 19 MPG WTF?? HOW???

 

Like i said, it was the knock sensor for me, still taking it in to have the adjustments i had done, undone, and if that doesn't work its on to O2 sensors.

 

-Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you run a code reader through it? looking for stored codes?

 

and 19 MPG WTF?? HOW???

 

Like i said, it was the knock sensor for me, still taking it in to have the adjustments i had done, undone, and if that doesn't work its on to O2 sensors.

 

-Kyle

ya man i dont know how i was getting 19 on 87 octane, i just was. and every single time i have read the codes or had them read the knock was on there, but i was getting the 19mpg and it was running correctly even with the knock code on there. so im thinkin it probably has more to do with something i did while i was doing the Valve cover gaskets. but i have yet to find it. If you have ur Knock Sensor replaced and it clears up your issue then i will go in here in a couple of months when days are longer and its a bit warmer and change it out. Oh ya, i usually drive about 19miles to work one way, and i do 55mph the whole time and accelerate slowly from stops or w/e. im sure if i did 65 i would probably get around 15 or 16 because its a difference in about 800 rps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am seeing results.

 

 

8375006113_36241c1a3d_c.jpg
and i dont know if you saw my other thread, but my knock sensor was completely cracked and corroded

8306644524_919e120f98_c.jpg
I would say try some of the ways to test your knock sensor, see if you get anything, i got nothing.
But, get some new gaskets, and inch pound torque wrenches (honestly the ones from harbor freight have been working extremely well, i've been incredibly happy with them.) you need to get your gaskets set correctly. (which you'll want new intake gaskets if they have never been changed, my original ones looked new but its like $30 for an OEM set, totally worth it if you ask me.)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am seeing results.

 

 

8375006113_36241c1a3d_c.jpg
and i dont know if you saw my other thread, but my knock sensor was completely cracked and corroded

8306644524_919e120f98_c.jpg
I would say try some of the ways to test your knock sensor, see if you get anything, i got nothing.
But, get some new gaskets, and inch pound torque wrenches (honestly the ones from harbor freight have been working extremely well, i've been incredibly happy with them.) you need to get your gaskets set correctly. (which you'll want new intake gaskets if they have never been changed, my original ones looked new but its like $30 for an OEM set, totally worth it if you ask me.)

ya i only took the upper plenum off doing the valve cover gasket and got a new gasket for that, i may change the sensor just for something to do one weekend tho. I'm still leaning toward one of the front o2 sensors flaking out, or the throttle body being etched where the carbon was. When the warmer weather rolls around im going to see about looking into it. Looks like i'm still getting 16ish right now. Maybe a little more. Yours getting 12 is kindof freaking me out. hope mine never drops down like that, i will have to get a new daily driver in that case.

the upper plenum being such a pain is making me want to get 2 from a junk yard and cut them and combine them to make one that dont block the valve cover on the driver side. May never do it, but just a thought. Thinking about deleting the EGR stuff and cats too since they dont do testing around here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ya i only took the upper plenum off doing the valve cover gasket and got a new gasket for that, i may change the sensor just for something to do one weekend tho. I'm still leaning toward one of the front o2 sensors flaking out, or the throttle body being etched where the carbon was. When the warmer weather rolls around im going to see about looking into it. Looks like i'm still getting 16ish right now. Maybe a little more. Yours getting 12 is kindof freaking me out. hope mine never drops down like that, i will have to get a new daily driver in that case.

the upper plenum being such a pain is making me want to get 2 from a junk yard and cut them and combine them to make one that dont block the valve cover on the driver side. May never do it, but just a thought. Thinking about deleting the EGR stuff and cats too since they dont do testing around here.

 

O2's are much easier to change than a knock sensor, at least on the passenger side it is, :laugh:

 

My rig is in the shop right now, and im having them check to see if my O2's are causing my MPG issues, if they are, a 22mm crows feet will be added to tool collection, :lol:

 

Im jealous they don't check for you, but at the same time, im glad they do in my area, its just one more incentive to not mess with the engine of my car, lol

 

And the upper plenum, you'll realize after the first or second time of removing it, that its fairly easy to remove for the most part, its just Nissan thought it would be nice to connect EVERYTHING behind the manifold, where, if you have ever attempted to change your spark plugs, you will see that there is no room. With that said, my suggestion would be to invest in some long arm needle nose pliers, to access some of the clips and hose clams behind the upper plenum, and maybe a handled mirror to see some of the plugs and vacuum lines tucked behind and above the drivers side valve cover and upper plenum.

 

Now i know you know all of this, its more for anyone who searches, and finds this thread in the future.

 

While agree, if the plenums where shorter, it would be easier to work on, but they make the plenums longer, for engines that need more torque, and shorter manifolds, are better for more horsepower. There's are nice Eric The Car Guy video, explaining why that is, i can post if if you like?

 

Keep us posted on your pathfinder.

 

-Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i was going to make the new one long, just not curved from the side, more of a middle shot that comes out past the dizzy. and yar i know all the stuff bout the pita hoses and electrical behind the manifold, it was nuts the first time but i think it had never been off so everything was corroded on. i ended up just cutting a lot of the hoses and replacing them. "wayyyyy easier and highly recommend it to anyone pulling the plenum." and ya man if i find out anything bout my ride i will let ya know. i read a thread somewhere bout throwing a resistor in where the knock sensor plugs up and that will fix if ur knock sensor is bad and throwing everything out of whack. Since i done a lot of tweakin to mine and teakin and tweakin. it runs pretty goood. actually really good. just idles a shade too high, and likes to hang out around 1100 till i get stopped. im sure i will figure out whats goin on with it this summer "spring" ill be sure to post and let you and everyone else know. At the same time throw me the word on what ur dealer finds out cause it could help me as well our probs being similar "not identical" but close. when i first got my rig back together it was idleing crazy high like u said urs was, but that was only because the stupid fast idle cam was not working. so i just tied it back with a wire hanger and called it a day :lol: those things r like 150 bones. Anyways take it easy.

 

 

PS luv eric the car guy. In the video where he pulls the pathy upper plenum, he removes the 2 "fatter" hoses on the driver side. Just for the record, ya u can leave em on and and for anyone pulling the plenum for whatever reason i recommend highly that u do.

Edited by fixinto
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dang, you have a lot more guts than i do, building your own intake manifold for any car is a daunting task.

 

that hose idea, sounds good if your impatient. but after enough frustration and maybe a swear or two, she'll come off.

 

But i got her back from the shop with what sounded like good advice, im going to make a thread about it. but my idle i think was solved by them adjusting the timing, it was off by 5 degrees. and they said something about the thermostat, but ill explain it again in my thread, don't want to explain it twice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well wile my Knock sensor was causing problems, i had them adjust the car around the faulty knock sensor (un-knowing that it was bad) and now that i replaced the sensor, i had to have them undo all of the stuff they did to get it back to normal with a functional knock sensor.

 

So they adjusted the idle, and reset the ignition timing, and some of the other stuff. i can get the full list when i get home.

 

-Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

However now what it is doing is when the car is on and stationary, ill turn the steering wheel the the idle jumps a little (no more than 100-200rpm) which it DID not do i changed the TPS sensor.

 

Still doing it? If so, good. It's supposed to do that to bump the power steering pressure up a little. The idle should up when you switch the brights on, rear defrost, turn the steering wheel, and turn the heater fan on.

 

Have they looked in to the ECM Coolant Temp Sensor and made sure it's ohm readings depending on temperature match the FSM?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dang, you have a lot more guts than i do, building your own intake manifold for any car is a daunting task.

 

that hose idea, sounds good if your impatient. but after enough frustration and maybe a swear or two, she'll come off.

 

But i got her back from the shop with what sounded like good advice, im going to make a thread about it. but my idle i think was solved by them adjusting the timing, it was off by 5 degrees. and they said something about the thermostat, but ill explain it again in my thread, don't want to explai

well the hoses were original equipment. "had to be" they were corrode welded to the pipe that runs under the intake, and being up against the fire wall like that, "hose pliers, cussing, tugging, pulling, jumping up and down, rolling on the ground kicking and screaming, and crying in the fetal position did not get it off, so i just cut the darn thing. it was midnight on a saturday and i had been working on it since 2 that afternoon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Still doing it? If so, good. It's supposed to do that to bump the power steering pressure up a little. The idle should up when you switch the brights on, rear defrost, turn the steering wheel, and turn the heater fan on.

 

Have they looked in to the ECM Coolant Temp Sensor and made sure it's ohm readings depending on temperature match the FSM?

I think so, I kinda figured it was suppose to do that, maybe i just started paying closer attention

 

I dont know exactly what they did, but i still dont think they did it right, before i changed my knock sensor, it was idling great, doing it almost immediately after warming up, and behaving really well. Now its just not behaving like i think it should.

 

Really getting old getting this engine to work right.

 

 

well the hoses were original equipment. "had to be" they were corrode welded to the pipe that runs under the intake, and being up against the fire wall like that, "hose pliers, cussing, tugging, pulling, jumping up and down, rolling on the ground kicking and screaming, and crying in the fetal position did not get it off, so i just cut the darn thing. it was midnight on a saturday and i had been working on it since 2 that afternoon.

 

:rofl: Thats nuts, it really did not want to move.

 

-Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...