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150k miles alot for a 97?


csutke
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Now im looking at buying a 97 SE 5 speed. I know that it has some issuses, like the control arms need to be replaced, it needs a tune up,and a cv boot needs to be replaced. the mechanic also said that he steering rack mounts need to be fixed. So im aware of these issues and can over look them. But what im really wanting to know from personal experience is, is 150k miles a lot for the VG33. I know that these can last for ever if taken care of properly, and according to the dealer it has. New timing belt water pump, etc.. But my step dad and my mechanic are both leary of the miles it has on it. I told them that 150 for a truck that is 15 years old isnt that bad and with proper maintance these will last a very long time.

 

Here is the pathy in question.

http://greenwoodautomotive.com/automobile-online-inventory-denver.html?wHPdoEWqeF=jJYktKPriTRpzMQawECbdBScyZAsfF

 

you may have to actually search for it as im not sure if link is correct but its on there.

 

 

What are you opinions? Yea, Nea, I was thinking about offering them 3500 and seeing where it goes from there.

 

 

Thanks

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The rover is out of my price range and from what I hear they are money pits. And as for the strut rot I haven't actually seen it in person yet but I had my parents look it over as well as a mechanic and neither of them said there was any so I think I'm good there.

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The Pathfinder is missing a wheel cap. DO NOT BUY

 

And why is that? I was planning on putting warn hubs on it at some point so missing a wheel cap isny a huge deal to me.

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It is sick but there are some problems with it, which is the only reason why i havent pulled thr trigger already.

Heres the list from the mechanic:

Tires

Front Axle Boot

Steering rack mounts

Spark Plugs

Tune Up

Front of rad full of dirt

Belts( Alt, A/C, PS)

Alignment after steering rack is fixed

Rear upper and lower control arm bushings

Rear Shocks

Fuel Filter

Oil Pressure Switch

Muffler is starting to rot

Heat Shield is falling off the resonator

F brake at 60%

R brake at 75%

 

All total $1500-2000 for parts and labor, Granted theres things on the list that I would do my self, like plugs, tune up, belts, shocks so the total repair bill would be less than the quote but still kinda spendy.

 

So this is why im still kinda leary about it. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to take a look at it in person and really get a feel for it and look at the service records. If i dont like it then im also looking at this one:

http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/3188561955.html

 

a year newer, less miles, but a little but more up front but looks like it wont need the reapirs that the other one will. I like this one as well but it doesnt have the grill guard, rear tire carrier, and its an automatic. But you cant win them all.

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Plugs, tune up, belts, rear shocks, fuel filter, oil pressure switch, brakes are easy to do yourself. Maybe even muffler replacement and a couple other items on the list. The rear drum brakes should last forever, just clean, lubricate, and adjust them yearly and you'll be good.

 

Bring a flashlight and look under the oil filler cap, see if you can see any significant amount of sludge or crap build up. Check all the condition of all the other fluids too, if they are clean it's even more proof things were maintained well. Also bring a magnet and check body panels for Bondo - if there are any spots where a magnet doesn't stick, it is Bondo (but that isn't necessarily a bad thing, just nice to know). Look for rust in the strut housing areas - see the recall TSB for examples of what to look for.

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I would go for the first one. The second one is meh. For one, the dealer doesn't know how to spell "everyone" so that's a sign they are in a rush to unload this. It also says it has a "towing package" but it doesn't even have a hitch. So it doesn't really have a towing package. They have a price of $6,995 crossed out for a "special price" of $5,995 and KBB says you should only pay $4,865 from a dealer. So I would stay away from them. If you can get the maintanence record from the dealer for the first one, then 150K miles is nothing. There are year 2003 cars with 150K miles and more. The maintanance things on the first one are things you would normally do anyway on a used car purchase of this age. I mean, from the pictures the engine bay looks clean, but not cleaned up for a picture, letting you know it wasn't driven real hard or off-road. You shouldn't have to take it to the mechanic for anything on that list. That's all doable at home (buy a whole new cv axle for $100, buy new control arms starting with the bottom 2 first. Rock-Auto has great deals on these).

 

Good luck on getting a Pathfinder.

 

Jose

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Yes most of the things on the list are things that I can do my self and some of them I would. But others I'd have the shop do as this pathy is in Denver and I'm about 4 hours from there. And from what both my parents and mechanic have said they would not feel comfortable letting me drive it back across the mountains. also I have never replaced a cv boot before and have no idea what what is wrong with the steering rack clamp. The control arms I have done before and they were a big pita and I'd like to not have to do them myself again.

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They are probably talking about the steering rack bushings, that is an easy job, and I don't think you really need an alignment after doing them unless its majorly shifted.

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I have 0 experience in buying from dealers, but why not take a prinitout of the estimated labor and parts costs from a garage or two or three with you and haggle in accordance, then do the work yourself (that you feel comfortable with). Winning!

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Well I ended up buying it today. 4k out the door. So I will start a new thread when I pick it up from the mechanic which will prob be next week some time. But here a quick pic I snapped at the dealer.

 

IMAG0469.jpg

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The CV's are easy to change and will cost you about $70-$90 new, buy Warn hubs and you will not get the wear on the CV boots. Everything else you listed, I have changed myself and you can to with a little work and buying parts online. 150k miles on a 97 is low mileage for a VG33. I have almost 200K on my 98 and it still runs great. That engine and trans is very robust. Just keep up on the maintenance like oil changes etc.

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Oh I know that i can do most of the things that are on the list but my parents said they would spring for some of the repairs, so im gonna have the mechanic do the control arms, oil pressure switch, cv boots, and steering rack mounts. Every thing else im gonna do as needed. The belts are in ok shape, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor will prob be the next thing to be done.

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That looks like a decent find, especially the way it is set up. I'm digging the 5sp and external carrier, that alone makes it valuable in my book. :aok:

 

Don't worry about the mileage, we bought a 1999.0 2.5 years ago for $4k with 150k on it (loaded SE, leather, sunroof, heated seats/mirrors, a/t, etc). So far I've done a tune up, replaced one injector, bought a set of tires, manual hubs and a trailer hitch. It's at 170k now without any sign of issues other than needing some suspension work (duh!).

 

I recently went over an inlaws 1997 R50 with 256k on it that was poorly maintained. It fired right up and ran like a champ even though when I pulled the plugs the electrode was burnt off so the gap was over .09". The VG motor is great, with the 33 beating out the 30, especially when you mix some parts.The rest of the truck will last with basic and reasonable maintainence barring rust or crashes. Fix what it needs and enjoy your world class reliable ride... :D

 

B

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