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Trans Cooler Install 94 SE


dirtx
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I wanted to say thank you to all who posted on this topic. After looking at a lot of different options, this is what I did.

1. Flushed the stock cooler.

nissan002.jpg[/img]

nissan002.jpg

2. Mount with inlet/outlet up. so no traped air.

nissan008.jpg[/img]

nissan008.jpg

3. Rout hose down the side of the fan shroud, Zip tid to keep out of harms way.

nissan005.jpg[/img]

nissan005.jpg

When budget allows I will add filter and temp gauge.

Hope these photos help someone.

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Hey Bud, first off, you are welcome and thanks for adding to the info/write up! :aok:

 

I'm not sure why it didn't like your image posts, all I did was copy the URL, use the add image button in the tool bar above, paste the url and click OK. Now it works... :shrug:

 

nissan008.jpg

 

B

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Good job! How do you like the Hayden cooler? Any noticeable difference from the trans hump? I know when I did my cooler, I could tell a drastic change in temperature, but I have yet to put a gauge in either... still waiting on the gauge pod...

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Good job! How do you like the Hayden cooler? Any noticeable difference from the trans hump? I know when I did my cooler, I could tell a drastic change in temperature, but I have yet to put a gauge in either... still waiting on the gauge pod...

So far its good, only been a day. When I go to work on tues. I climb a good grade for about 6 mi. gains about 2,000 ft. Its been getting real hot. Hopefully this helps. The Hayden seems like good quality. AND I'll keep working at the pictures! Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think on a WD21 a B&M 70268 is best due to its thin profile and stacked plate design. I'm sure Tungsten will agree here. I think AAP should have it, so you can get it cheap if ordered online with discount codes.

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Ford Exploders and Rangers often have stacked plate coolers (Exploders have bigger ones probably). If you decide to use a junkyard cooler, flush it out very well with dedicated cooler cleaner as shown in the OP. It wouldn't hurt to flush out your stock cooler while you're at it too. Add a Magnefine on the cooler return line when it's financially convenient too.

Edited by Towncivilian
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Definitely get the Ezploder unit that is so common. The one in my garage measures 11+"x7+"x3/4" and is stacked plate, so I'd expect it to perform close to the

"B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler"

 

11" x 7-1/4" x 3/4" model is rated at 13.000 BTU, and pressure tested to 200 PSI

 

 

Close enough in my book. Honestly, due to so many different driving situations, gearing, tire size, elevation, temperature, etc. The only way to know if you are getting sufficient cooling is with a temp gaige. I plan to run from the tranny to the temp sender/filter, to the radiator cooler to the aftermarket cooler back to the tranny. This should keep the temperature the most stable, yet still keep it cooler than stock and avoid spikes. I want the tranny to run at the same temp as much as possible...

 

B

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I run ONLY my 24gvwr (or 26, or 28... lol idr. i know, overkill! :D) the stock cooler just sits at the bottom. like the junk it is. :)

got my cooler for like 48ish dollars. IIRC it was Hayden... or somehting. haha.

ill be getting a stacked plate cooler when i get a new transmission. right now i just have a tube and fin.

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  • 3 weeks later...

correct me if i'm wrong, but my understanding for getting an aftermarket trans cooler is due to the factory cooler clogging and starving the trans? So, if people are adding an aftermarket cooler while still using the factory cooler, don't you still run the risk of a clogged factory cooler and a starved trans?

 

I want to put an aftermarket cooler on and delete the factory, so would the 70268 B&M be sufficient as a stand alone or should I go bigger?

 

this is my daily driver that'll see some occasional light trailer towing and maybe a trip or 2 to the dunes to play in the sand.

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Some of us run an inline filter to catch any sediment which should solve the clogging issue, and a temperature gauge whuich should tell us if there is ever an issue (unlikely). The reasom to run through the radiator cooler is faster warmups and more consistent operating temperatures.

 

Yes, that cooler should be a sufficient size. Install a temp gauge and be certain... ;)

 

B

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thanks for the info RJ. I'm between the 70268 as a piggy back with the OEM or bypassing the OEM with a 70266. Same length and width as the 70268 but 2x the depth with a 20k BTU rating. price difference is about $25

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You won't be able to fit a 70266 due to clearance issues, on a WD21. Paging Tungsten!

 

If you flush the stock cooler thoroughly and install an in-line filter, you can safely continue to use the stock cooler and plumb the auxiliary cooler in-line with it. See NTB00-056b - 1988 AND LATER NISSAN VEHICLES AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER CLEANING.

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Yes, go with the 70268. You can mount a thicker cooler but you may need to modify the plastic grille slightly. I have successfully mounted a 70264, which is double the capacity of a 70268 but I had to trim the plastic grille just a bit. It works fine but if I did it again I would have gone with a 70268 instead.

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