Harbinger Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 (edited) Hi all! So I loaded the pathy up with gear and the girlfriend and headed towards the hills tonight. After about 20 minutes of doing 75 on the freeway, we heard a very audible clunk, and pulled over to the side of the freeway. Transmission fluid was everywhere on the passenger side of the engine bay, looked like it spewed forth out of the transmission fill/check line. I wasn't able to find any lines disconnected or burst, and could find no active leak with the truck running and it being ran through the gears. We then limped to a rest stop and I checked the fluid level. It still read "full" for hot, and when I went to check the level I noticed the plug/dip stick being loose. Thinking it might have been a freak occurrence, we had dinner and got ready to continue on. That is until I put the transmission in reverse only to have the engine die. It still drove in "D" although it seemed to require a lot more revs to start from a stop. We pushed it out of the parking spot and set to head back home. Getting on the freeway I was running with my harzards, doing a max of about 45mph. Anything higher than that and it would seem to disconnect and just rev before settling back into gear. We are now home safe, and I tried reversing again when I got here. The engine stayed running but reverse did not engage. Is my transmission screwed? I just did a fluid flush + additional filter + bypassed the stock cooler for a new 18000 GVW unit about 80 miles ago. It had been acting just fine around town. The tranny is the original and has about 198K miles on it. I'm having bourbon and beer now, and we'll be repacking the girls car to head up tomorrow, but I wanted to pick your brains on this one. Edited July 21, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 I think your trans overheated and puked some fluid. What fluid did you use? Did you install an in line filter or a spin on kit? Have you ever changed the in pan strainer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 I think your trans overheated and puked some fluid. What fluid did you use? Did you install an in line filter or a spin on kit? Have you ever changed the in pan strainer? Things were warm under there, but the gauge I installed still isn't working so I have no idea how hot it actually got, in fact the cooler felt warm to the touch when we first pulled over but it wasn't an OMG HOT type of feeling. I had read that an 18000gvw cooler was adequate for these trucks? My AT Temp light never came on either. It's a spin on filter. Fluid comes out from the tranny, into the filter, out to the cooler and then back to the tranny. The fluid is cheap Valvoline Max Life. I haven't changed the strainer. I changed the fluid by pumping it out of the cooler lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 I don't own an auto tragic, but I've read enough to know that not engaging in reverse sounds like the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Well this is new... Did you hook up the filter in the right direction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 well, I can conclude that the fluid came out of the dipstick. had some pressure built up in there! vent line must be clogged. not saying that's why the trans blew, but something needed to vent somewhere, and the dipstick is the weak point. recheck fluid after it's sat for awhile, refill as needed, hopefully damage was not caused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Sorry to say this but your transmission is almost certainly toast. Spitting out a bunch of fluid is really strange though if it didn't blow off a line. Figuring out where the fluid that leaked actually came from would be a good idea. You can't normally overheat an automatic to the point that it pukes out fluid. It's not like the pressurized cooling system, the transmission sump is vented to atmosphere and the boiling point of the fluid is somewhere in the 500-600F range. At 300F an automatic transmission will give off so much stench that most people pull over because they think the truck is on fire. If I've got this right 80 miles ago you installed a spin-on transmission fluid filter and 18k cooler and you're not running the stock heat exchanger in the radiator. Unless the transmission was acting up prior to these parts being installed one of them is probably the cause of your failure. "80 miles later" seems like it'd be a really crazy coincidence. I would be taking a very close look at how the cooler lines are routed to be sure there isn't a restriction somewhere from a pinched line. I would also take a serious look at the filter element and it's mount to be sure there isn't a flow restriction there and/or it wasn't plumbed backwards. If the filter element is similar to an oil filter element it's designed to have the pressurized fluid enter the outer can, then pass through the filter media and go to the main oil gallery in the engine through the center port. When remote filter mounts are plumbed backwards with the fluid flowing from the inside out the element comes apart and is often pumped into the engine to clog the oil galleries and rapidly kill the bearings. Perhaps something similar happened here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 I think you guys might be correct on the reversed filter. My B&M kit wasn't marked with what was what, so I copied the Transdapt mount for my oil filter which had the in port being the center. Well crap. I'll check the level in the morning. Until then I'm going to go have another shot and hope an oversight didn't just cost me the transmission I was trying to protect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Check the fluid out too. If it's roasted, change it right away. Looks like you may have overheated the transmission and burned the fluid. There is still hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 I'll swap the filter in/outs and change the filter. Then will check the fluid. Once I get back tomorrow that is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 (edited) I would also take a serious look at the filter element and it's mount to be sure there isn't a flow restriction there and/or it wasn't plumbed backwards. Mr510 and I are thinking the same thing........restriction or backwards flow plumbing error. I have also seen some HD aftermarket coolers with a direction of flow to them. Edited July 21, 2012 by Alkorahil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 Well we canceled going camping - all the gas is in the pathfinder and didn't want to fill the thirsty grand cherokee! So I did have the filter plumbed backwards. I plumbed it correctly, changed the filter and put in fresh fluid. I'm still getting the same behavior on the truck. R and 1 don't engage, and the other gears seem to require much more revs to get started. I guess I'll be saving my pennies and searching for a transmission shop....*sigh* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 I'd search for a used heavy duty version instead of getting that one rebuilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Ouch!! If only your temp gauge worked, it might have warned you! ? I'd guess that the damage has been done also, and agree that you should source a HD version to install rather than bother with this one. Hell, do it yourself and might not cost that much at all. Just make sure you gets the lines right though... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 The lines have been fixed, so very late, but I suppose it is better late than never! The cooler now gets hotter than before, and I was an an ignorant fool to not have realized it till it broke outright. I concur with the HD version, or simply rebuilding mine with a shift kit. Also soreley tempted to convert to a stick shift. Alas I am an umemployed soul that starts school in the fall. I don't expect the repair to come quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Reverse and first are on the same clutch pack in the trans, usually if one goes the other is not far behind, that is what happened to my 87 hardbody the first time I had the tranny rebuilt, at about 130K miles and is what the tranny shop owner told me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Well we canceled going camping - all the gas is in the pathfinder and didn't want to fill the thirsty grand cherokee! So I did have the filter plumbed backwards. I plumbed it correctly, changed the filter and put in fresh fluid. I'm still getting the same behavior on the truck. R and 1 don't engage, and the other gears seem to require much more revs to get started. I guess I'll be saving my pennies and searching for a transmission shop....*sigh* Sad to hear but was worth a shot to revive it. Looks like it heated up enough to do damage to the clutch packs. In just 80 miles too! Nissan automatic transmissions really do not like to get hot. Alternatively, if you find another automatic too expensive, you can just swap in a manual and have fun clutching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Dead auto, the pressure knocked the dip-stick out. Samething happen at Gilbert to mine, but my reverse was always fine, even after loosing 3rd/4th. Mine did it after idling for 45 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Mine did it after idling for 45 minutes. Idling killed your tranny? I do a lot of tailgating in my Pathy and let it idle for long periods while charging the battery in between watching other football games on the satellite. Thanks for putting something catastrophic in the back of my mind! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted July 23, 2012 Author Share Posted July 23, 2012 Sad to hear but was worth a shot to revive it. Looks like it heated up enough to do damage to the clutch packs. In just 80 miles too! Nissan automatic transmissions really do not like to get hot. Alternatively, if you find another automatic too expensive, you can just swap in a manual and have fun clutching. Is it really cheaper to convert to a manual? I was assuming that with the clutch pedal, master cylinder and what not, that it would be more expensive. Currently 01-04 HD autotragic transmissions are running about 700-1000+ used. If a manual is really cheaper I'd love to drive a manual again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 I think it just depends on the deal. I think a couple people on here scored really cheap HD's. You might be able to find a complete wrecked/blown motor etc of a manual or auto, take what you need, part out and scrap the rest. Obviously staying auto is easier, so factor that into your cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 Is it really cheaper to convert to a manual? I was assuming that with the clutch pedal, master cylinder and what not, that it would be more expensive. Currently 01-04 HD autotragic transmissions are running about 700-1000+ used. If a manual is really cheaper I'd love to drive a manual again! It all depends on how you source the parts. It is generally agreed that when changing to a manual, it is best to have a donor vehicle to pick off of. Say you bought a pathy with a broken timing belt for $800, you take all the parts off of it that you need, sell some parts here and then have it towed for scrap. It could cost you little other than your time... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 (edited) Is it really cheaper to convert to a manual? I was assuming that with the clutch pedal, master cylinder and what not, that it would be more expensive. Currently 01-04 HD autotragic transmissions are running about 700-1000+ used. If a manual is really cheaper I'd love to drive a manual again! At Pick N Pull's prices for everything you'd need it would probably be less expensive to convert to a 5 speed, assuming PnP doesn't have a good HD trans (I've never seen one there). We recently converted silverton's S12 to 5 speed and all the parts required from PnP were less than $250 I think. Pedal & pivot, hard line, trans crossmember & mount, transmission, flywheel, shifter boot plate, front section of driveshaft etc. Then we spent about $300 (wholesale) from Nissan on a new Z31T clutch and master and slave cylinders. A braided stainless line to go from the hard line to the slave while eliminating the clutch damper was another $30 or something. You would need different parts, obviously, but PnP's prices will be the same. So ~$600 for PnP parts and new Nissan bits for the clutch. There are awesome deals out there on Craigslist from time to time. If you can save up some money so you can jump when a deal comes up that's what it usually takes. That's the thing with CL, when an awesome deal comes along you have to be able to jump *right now* or somebody else will get it. Examples: 1) A couple months ago I got a VG33E & auto trans (non-HD) with 130k miles that I saw run and drive from a '97 caR50 for $400 pulled and loaded into my truck. The VG33 is going in silverton's Pathy and the trans is going in my '94. 2) About a year and a half ago I bought a complete 40k mile? VG33ER and SHD automatic from an '04 X for $800. The trans is now in silverton's Pathy, the motor became the VG34 in my Pathy, and I sold the supercharger and related hardware for $1k on eBay! On the flip side of this, when I blew up the original trans in my Pathy I needed it fixed "now". My friend runs an all Nissan wrecking yard and gave me a pretty good deal (at the time) on a HD auto from an '01 X with 80k miles for $1k. My back was too messed up for me to do the swap myself so I traded an NOS 510 hood worth $500 for the installation. So that endeavor cost $1500 but I had my truck back on the road in less than a week. It all depends on how you source the parts. It is generally agreed that when changing to a manual, it is best to have a donor vehicle to pick off of. Say you bought a pathy with a broken timing belt for $800, you take all the parts off of it that you need, sell some parts here and then have it towed for scrap. It could cost you little other than your time... B ^ This. If you've got time/money/space to part out a truck, or at least take off the easy stuff and sell it on NPORA / eBay / CL you can probably do it almost for 'free' whether you want an HD auto or a stock 5 speed swap. Again it's a matter of being able to jump when needed to get a deal that comes along. Edited July 24, 2012 by Mr.510 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted July 24, 2012 Author Share Posted July 24, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the info everyone. I'm going to have to wait for my student loans to come in to get this fixed, so it gives me some time to figure out what I want to do. Girlfriend A already told me I couldn't sell the motorcycle, so I wait! I'm really thinking a manual would be awesome, and there is even a 93 stick shift with 160k miles on it for $800 right now on CL. However I don't have a dedicated shop space to do the swap, and I don't mind buying new tools, but it's another expense. My gravel driveway where the work would be done would get cramped in a hurry with my truck, a parts truck, and then my roomies truck. That and I am the one who burned out the transmission in the first place! Not sure I should attempt such a huge job if I can't get filter lines right. Edited July 24, 2012 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 There have been people who've done it for $400... But there found a junk yard doner and pulled everything themselves. I figured you could use a little something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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