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Clutch will not disengage


beastpath
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This morning I finished off my vg33 install. Engine turned on just fine, timing is all set, etc etc etc.

 

I get in to take a test drive, turn on the car in neutral, press the clutch pedal and tried to shift into first.....it won't. I can feel the vibration of the engine against the stick, but clearly the clutch is NOT disengaging when I push the pedal in.

 

The transmission WILL shift when the truck is OFF.

 

I used an OEM replacement VG30 Exedy clutch. The kit came with everything including a pilot bearing. The pilot bearing was VERY tight in the crankshaft, and VERY tight (shaved a little plastic off) for the clutch alignment tool.

 

Apart from that it was just another clutch install. Didn't have any problems at all.

 

I replaced the slave cylinder and bled it and can see it push the fork in when someone steps on the pedal. I also took the dust boot off and can see the throwout bearing push against the pressure plate spines. (That was all with the engine off by the way).

 

Has anyone experienced anything like this before? Does anyone have any ideas before I have to take the transmission out (again, lol)?

 

 

Thanks guys!

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On the top of the clutch pedal you should be able to adjust it. Maybe its just not pushing it far enough. I have a center force 2 in my r50 and it took a little tweaking to get it right.

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try driving around jerking it around in first gear with the gas pedal in other words start it in gear with the clutch in but make sure you are clear of objects if that doesnt work in a few tries then it has to come apart

 

Yeah I tried that. I'm thinking I may have installed the clutch plate backwards.

 

On the top of the clutch pedal you should be able to adjust it. Maybe its just not pushing it far enough. I have a center force 2 in my r50 and it took a little tweaking to get it right.

 

The slave pushes the pin as far as it can go. No joy.

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  • 10 months later...

To be honest I have no idea what the problem was.

 

What I ended up doing was starting it in first a few times and it somehow broke loose the mechanism. Been working fine for about a year now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I figured out what was causing our issue. Aparently the throwout bearing carrier popped loose one of the clips from the shift fork while we were installing the new engine. Also related, the clutch fork moved off of it's pivot and spun crooked. The end result was the throwout bearing not being able to travel all the way back, thus maintaining partial preasure on the preasure plate spines. The truck could be driven very gently with no problem, but any semi-agressive use of the trottle and it jumped 1-2000 rpm quickly.

 

For anybody who suspects this might be their problem, look at the exposed end of your clutch fork. It should be lined up with the square in the bell housing that it sticks out of. The piston from the slave cylinder that pushes on that end of the clutch for should be pointed strait into the recess. If the shift fork is at an odd angle or that piston is pointed at a downward angle the problem I described above could be your issue.

 

To fix this you will need to remove your slave cyliner to release that source of tension on the shift fork. I cut away the boot from the shift fork so i could look inside and verify that the bearing carrier was infact not clipped to the the for end properly. Using a long screw driver I was able to rotate the carrier into almost the correct location. Using vice grips and as my father calls it "gorrilla strength" I was able to rotate the shift fork back into place on the throwout bearing carrier. A few gentle taps with a hammer and the fork slid into the clip and realigned on the pivot correctly. Install a new boot on the clutch fork, put the slave cylinder back on and it was ready to go.

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