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Kinda makes me wonder...


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why would someone be gathering so many parts.?

TG classic 5" kit.?

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TG hoops and Bilstein 12" shocks.?

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38" boggers.?

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flattop knuckles.?

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i also see HP Dana 44 with Chevy outers, and a Rodeo Dana 44...hmmm looks like they both have 5:13 gears...

 

well looks like someone is up to something for sure...?

i try to dig up more info

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  • 2 weeks later...

well looks like more parts showed up...

something about a RuffStuff 7/8 Heim steering kit...hmmm that should be enough.?

 

ill post pictures later

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  • 3 weeks later...

it feels good chopping the IFS out.! its like there is no turning back now.!

 

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sorry for the crappy pictures...

Edited by stalker
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Front Nismo Hanger is welded on and painted...ill get some better angle pictures

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this will be up for sale..

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Edited by stalker
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How do you guys match diff ratio with the rear. Do you re gear or are you able to get the correct ratio supplied off the bat.

 

I run 4.88 at the moment and here in South Africa I can't seem to find anything better than around a 4.1. Now I am looking for a scrapped Jeep where I can get the front and rear along with the wheels to match the 5 stud setup.

 

I am worried about going to long on the gearing as I feel I would rather be going slower/crawling and the 2.7TDiesel has not got a lot of power. Just got my hands on a divorced transfer case, so that may sort out my off road gearing by running two transfers behind each other.

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Front Nismo Hanger is welded on and painted...ill get some better angle pictures

sas1.jpg

 

 

 

 

Darnit... I wish i would have caught you before that hanger got welded home. It should only be tacked on to begin with. That way if your shackle angle is jacked up that crossmember can be moved easily in order to fine tune the problem. Looks good so far!!!

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I agree with GrandpaX. Not that you did anything wrong by welding it up. I've taken that chance many of times myself even after I learned the hard way not to do that. When dealing with suspension or chassis fabrication it's always better to assemble the whole thing with spot welds when possible. Once everything is finished and you know it works tear it down and finish weld the whole thing.

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Good to see these kinda of comments, makes sense, but I would have been the person that also just welded it from end to end without thinking of fine tuning later.

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Darnit... I wish i would have caught you before that hanger got welded home. It should only be tacked on to begin with. That way if your shackle angle is jacked up that crossmember can be moved easily in order to fine tune the problem. Looks good so far!!!

I agree with GrandpaX. Not that you did anything wrong by welding it up. I've taken that chance many of times myself even after I learned the hard way not to do that. When dealing with suspension or chassis fabrication it's always better to assemble the whole thing with spot welds when possible. Once everything is finished and you know it works tear it down and finish weld the whole thing.

 

face palm...lol

We did take a lot of measurements and mocked up the axle and springs before completely welding it up the hanger...but now that i think about it...i should have waited for everything being at complete mock...

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It is something you wouldn't think of. When you start looking at the rigs out there... everyones is placed different.

 

I'll take some pics of my HB later.. give you an idea where the placement ended up with Toyota springs. I had Waggy 44044's on my rig to begin with. After settling they ended up being a little long for where I placed the hanger/shackles. Toy springs (Mine are All Pro) are a little shorter and the centering pin is offset towards the front of the truck more. Not only did they save my bacon... they ended up shoving the tires ahead a little.

 

Many Toyota and Nissan guys use Toyota rear springs on the front with good results. The Calmini truck used Rancho 44044's minus the largest leaf that can be removed. It goes on and on... thus making it hard to base someone elses placement to your build.

 

You will find that a 1/4 inch makes a huge difference... so when the springs settle... the "F" word comes to mind.

Edited by GrandpaX
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This guy that put a IRS front clip on my uncle's 50 Plymouth did the same thing. Measured, measured, and measured again. Thought everything was spot on and welded the whole clip onto the frame. After dropping the car on the ground he realized something was wrong. The front end seemed about two or 3 inched to far forward. He just wrote it off as maybe it was like that to begin with. Me and my uncle showed up to take a look and I knew instantly something was wrong. When I said something he said it all measured out the same. Told me it was the exact same wheel base as it was before. I stopped and thought about it for a min and then realized what he did. I asked him one simple question. Did you make your first measurements when the car was resting on the ground? The hamster in his head started turning and he said yes. Then I told him, "you realize when you lift the car the read end swings forward and will though off your measurements?". That's when the palm hit the face and he realized he fskced up in a really big way lmao. He was damn near 100% finished with everything!!! The moral of the story is that it happens to the best of us. This guy has done front clips on many cars before this and they turned out great.

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