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2WD Steering Setup Installed w/ Pictures, Using OEM Steering Damper.


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Hahaha ya I figured I would need some serious luck. I've done all poly Bushings in my s13. I was hoping the wd would be about the same lol. Uca looks easy.... lca looks stupid.... I might also wait till I sas for that one.... lol

Edited by Nefarious
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  • 4 weeks later...

Okay just wanted to throw an update on here about the 2WD steering system durability. I have now wheeled it well over 100km of pure trail riding, still have yet to bend, break or wear anything out. Still feels totally solid. Just took her on 50km trip through some seriously washed out and rocky jeep trails (i say jeep trails cause the only things i saw running them were jeeps with 33-37"+ tires!) got a lot of looks and salutes with my pathy out running with the jeep crowd lol. Huge washouts, really flexy bits, it has held up GREAT, even climbing down with each tire on walls each side.

 

I gotta say for 140ish bucks canadian this hands down beats the stock setup. my wheel stays about 50-70% more stable (50-70% less bump steer), it's easier to turn my wheels (power steering feels stronger), my steering angles stay at a very comfortable level even with my over 3" of front torsion bar cranking so im sure the joints will last a lot longer.

 

With this much torsion crank I wore out my old stock setup centerlink within 100km of trail riding, this setup with the exact same brand 2wd hardbody parts are still like new after over 100km of much more intense and technical (and rocky) trails. The only weak point I could see is if I bent the inner tie rod but it hasn't happened yet and I took some pretty heavy hits on rocks. Keep in mind these are the cheapest steering parts I could find to do this setup on a tight budget and they are holding up fantastic. (Qsten 2wd inner tie rods, OEParts 2wd centerlink, OEParts 4wd Inner tie rods.)

 

I took some pretty hard hits on some pretty big rocks and have had zero issues.

 

Just wanted to throw an update for anyone who actually wheels their truck, this setup is great for lifted IFS.

Edited by Nefarious
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  • 5 months later...

hi i have a 93 pathy, i remember reading both yours and tungstens thread....... i cant see any pics of find any part numbers..... idk if its just me? if u could please message me when u get a chance with the part numbers i would really appreciate it....... also im wondering what was the problem with the pitman arm that was described.... do i have to change mine or am i getting mixed up?

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also im wondering what was the problem with the pitman arm that was described.... do i have to change mine or am i getting mixed up?

Most likely. If yours has the different size tapers on the stock centerlink, then you will need a 91-92 pitman. The 93+ has a bigger taper on the pitman arm, so the 2wd centerlink bj that goes in there is too small.

 

Edit, Oh yeh, I just want to correct something I said in an earlier post, it is the idler joint that wears on the stock setup, not the pitman one as I said. This joint is the one that stops the centerlink rocking, the pitman one is a normal bj. This crap design also explains why we bend idlers so easy...there's a lot of leverage on the poor thing trying to control that centerlink....

Edited by andrewt6447
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yeah i have a custom made idler arm brace, new idler bushings, 2wd steering swap, and oem monroe steering damper setup and have had ZERO problems since. i have my torsions cranked up pretty high like 3-3.5 inches with 1" bj spacers and low profile bump stops, 33x12.5 tires on 15x10 steel rims with a very low offset and the system is still holding up about a year later and lots of trails!

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I figured it had something to do with the forum transfer.

 

O well...maybe the OP can see this and repost them?

 

Really interested in doing this swap on my D21 and just need a few pictures to guide me along.

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  • 2 months later...

great work guys very impressive!! im in the middle of doing this swap and need to know one thing. when getting the sleeves machined does it get the same threads put back in or do i put reverse threads in?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey everyone, just got a photobucket setup so the pictures should stay up for all to see. :) Hope the pics help!

 

IMAG0723_zpsd572e4f8.jpg

 

 

 

IMAG0724_zps1758a95d.jpg

 

 

 

IMAG0727_zps0b205087.jpg

 

IMAG0728_zpsda89516d.jpg

 

IMAG0730_zps57f8c21d.jpg

 

IMAG0729_zps09bfb611.jpg

 

IMAG0731-Copy_zps79bb5df4.jpg

 

IMAG0726_zpse4ce451c.jpg

 

and its still holding up! love this swap. :)

Edited by Nefarious
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Not that I am aware of. As far as I know, all hardbody 2wd center links have the small taper size on both ends. It is required to use a 90-92 pitman arm on your truck, which has the correct small taper hole for the center link. It also has the correct large splined hole on the large end to fit the steering gear output shaft diameter which your 93 steering gear uses.

 

You can pull one from the junk yard for next to nothing. Just make sure the production dates of the donor truck matches those posted earlier in the thread. Bring a pitman arm puller, a mapp gas torch, a big crescent wrench (or the proper socket) and a BIG HAMMER. lol.

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Well I just found this out about my 93 so I don't think I need it.

 

6d1fa26e-cc46-47bc-8490-d9f2e8692a1a_zps

 

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Just started using photobucket lets hope this works. As you can see I have a little bit of a power steering leak. Have to get new hoses for it. Is this an updated steering system???? I was really surprised to see the Idler brace under it today.

 

 

James

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That's an Idler arm brace and steering damper. Those are separate components to the 2wd drive swap and are unrelated. The tie rods and center link are stock in your truck and are the issue trying to be improved upon with the swap. If your steering is still tight though...might as well wait and just do the 2wd swap when your steering is worn. Those upgraded parts in the pic are kept with the 2wd swap.

 

Keep in mind the stock steering is fine at stock ride height. This systems benefits are its increased travel for lifted trucks and the thicker tie rod shafts which attach more inward on the centerlink and at a 90 degree orientation as opposed to stock so as to run the joint to twist where it is not limited by the joints pivot angle. There is also less bumpsteer since the angles of the inner tie rods and lower control arms are much closer to each other, especially as the front suspension is extended.

 

It rides great with my truck with 3.5" of front suspension lift. Running 33x12.5 tires with 15x10 rims (not sure of offset but its very very low) and small tire steering stops for max steering angle.

Edited by Nefarious
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Cool. I will definitely be doing that update. I plan on doing a lift but have to save up the money for the new UCA's. Just have to find the right ones.

 

James

Edited by Hytekrednek
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Not that I am aware of. As far as I know, all hardbody 2wd center links have the small taper size on both ends. It is required to use a 90-92 pitman arm on your truck, which has the correct small taper hole for the center link. It also has the correct large splined hole on the large end to fit the steering gear output shaft diameter which your 93 steering gear uses.

You can pull one from the junk yard for next to nothing. Just make sure the production dates of the donor truck matches those posted earlier in the thread. Bring a pitman arm puller, a mapp gas torch, a big crescent wrench (or the proper socket) and a BIG HAMMER. lol.

What size socket is that?

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The Size is correct above. Getting the pitman arm off can be a bear some times. In the end, I had resorted to a large pipe wrench and a 6 foot long Pipe off the handle, and bent the pipe wrench in the process. I have a 800ftlb HD impact gun that did nothing but waist air. Lots of PB for a few days will help things along.

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I had one that wouldnt come off at all, the threads were so jammed up with rust it locked itself in place but the next one i tried wasn't bad. Use a torch (map gas isa lot better than propane and can usually be brought to the wreckers). If the nut doesn't crack, use the torch. It's a life saver! Then once the nut is off use a pitman arm pulled and alternate between tightening the press bolt of the pitman arm remover and hitting the side edge of the exposed part of the pitman arm. Between the pressure of the puller and the bashing with a hammer it should let go. It is by no means fun but its worth it! I promise! This steering is one of the nicer things I've done to my rig and it doesnt cost much!

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  • 3 weeks later...

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