Honeybadger Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 I don't have the stock wheels, they're some american racing garbage, but as far as I know, the offset is the same and the wheel width is the same, and they're also 15's. I'm currently running 235/75's and would like to go up to a 33, of which the tire people ordered a 33 12.50. I want to make sure that I'm getting a tire that will a.) be able to fit, and b.) what modifications I need to make in order to do so. I'm guessing the fender flares need to come off, but can it be done with the stock suspension and no body lift? Picture of the truck for reference 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 People have run a 33x10.50x15 with no body/suspension lift, I think 12.50 are gonna rub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 so any tips for preventing the rub? Where will it likely be rubbing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Need to do a body lift to prevent rubbing 12.50" wide tires. And even then, I think you still need to take a BFH to the passenger foot well. 33x10.50 will fit with no modification if those wheels have a 5" backspacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnailPowered Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 If you decide to get rid of the fender flares I will gladly buy them off you Help pay for the new wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Summit racing sells cheap steelies...I got my set of 5 for $250...gfs pathy has 33 x12.50s we have a 3" bl with a significant amount of fender trims on the front and adjusted wheel stops...it is a mall Crawler so we don't have to worry about tire rub off road yet..I've run 33x12.50s on mine for a while...areas I've rubbed: Frame at tension rod mount frame in front of front tire Body at cab(fender is essentially trimmed to the cab fenders in the middle (trimmed and comp cut now) Rear fender well/frame Rear fender Here's about how much I trimmed off the rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 (edited) sounds like more trouble than it's worth. I called the tire store and had them re-order 33x10.5's I shouldn't need to fiddle with my suspension in that case, correct? The point of the truck is a "do all" machine, not a wheeling rig. I just like being able to get myself in and out of anywhere I feel like I need to, while having civil road manners, a decent stereo, etc, so changing the body or cutting/hammering in the footwells is more than I want to do. Edited April 2, 2012 by Honeybadger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 sounds like more trouble than it's worth. I called the tire store and had them re-order 33x10.5's I shouldn't need to fiddle with my suspension in that case, correct? As long as your t-bars are making your front end sag horribly, you should be fine. What did you go with BFG A/T KOs? or BFG M/T KM2's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 33x1050s will still rub at some point and time without a BL at least Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 33x1050s will still rub at some point and time without a BL at least I'm not planning on doing any crawling, so will the t-bars be enough for adjustment? I went with goodyear duratracs, they had the highest snow rating possible for what I wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 33x1050s will still rub at some point and time without a BL at least My 33x10.50's do not rub in the front anywhere, and only in the rear will they rub with my sway bar disconnected. Sounds like you had some saggy suspension! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 (edited) Looks like goodyear doesn't make the duratracs in 33x10.5, so I had to go with a 31x10.5. Edited April 2, 2012 by Honeybadger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 You are back to a optional OEM tire size then. You shouldnt have any problems with rubbing unless the backspacing on those wheels is different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Looks like goodyear doesn't make the duratracs in 33x10.5, so I had to go with a 31x10.5. yeah, I figured it was only BFG that made 33x10.50, as a well known brand anyway, Interco makes a few, but those aren't really street rubber! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I just drive it hard...no sway bars...I put 2" wheel spacers to clear fenders. I lift front tire when I turn sometimes according to different folks that have rode behind me...I just don't see 33's on stock not ever rubbing...like I said the gfs is on 33s and the tbars r cranked and I had to trim the front fenders and the body was already beat back by the tires before I got it ... 95 w/ 33 X 12.50s with spring spacers in the rear and cranked t bars This is what they looked like when we got the truck but he wheeled it hard New fenders before 3" body lift Now w/3" bl: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 12.50's will rub, I'm not disagreeing with you there. 10.50's will not, but only with the stock 5" backspacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Just don't see how u clear the rear fender and front of the fender unless u r cranked to the stops and even then u will rub something at sometime...unless you trim...id be interested in seeing pics of ure wheels cut at the rear and front BC i know with 31s on a stock 95 and adjusted tbars they hit the front valence and bumper and over speed bumps I could grab fender depending on the bump and my speed... 31s are your safest bet to fit with no issues...and take it from me u keep evettything stock and crank tbars and the front end will be a nightmare in time..and at that point start upgrading early BC the cost of replacement parts will kill u sooner or later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I have those exact same wheels and I highly doubt that they have any more than 4" backspacing. They are most likely 15x8 with 4" or 3.75" BS. With 33s you will be rubbing in a couple of spots. Be prepared for it and don't let your new tires get chewed up by the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 I can't very well show you the fitment at the front of the fender as mine are now comp cut, because I got tired of pushing them in on the trail, and having to pull them out to avoid chewing up my tires! They fit, but obviously it's a tight fit. But if it's just a street truck and you don't drive it like a race car, because it isn't, then 33x10.50's are fine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 (edited) Got my 31x10.5's installed, and my left front tire is rubbing the front of the fender at full lock to the right. It BARELY rubs, so should I just hammer it out, or is it likely my T-bars needing to be adjusted? For clarification, full lock to the left, the right tire doesn't rub in the same spot. Edited April 4, 2012 by Honeybadger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 Grant the t bars a touch or adjust the bump stop...make sure u get an alignment if u adjust the tbars...or do what I didn't on my 87 and learn where the rub and don't rub... Glad u picked the 31s over 33s BC the 33s would have been worse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 grab some gloves and pull the fender away. Fenders bend pretty easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 I've got a cordless Sawzall! Seriously though, I've run 33x10.5R15 KOs on Lego wheels on my stock height '88 for almost five years. Obviously NOT just a street truck. I had to lose the flares and when I started taking off things like sway bars I had to roll my fender lips. With very long travel rear shocks my tires cram into the rear of the rear fenderwell openings pretty hard at full stuff. That part is getting sawed off to save my new 33x10.5R15 Swampers from being chunked. With KOs it never damaged the tires as they hit in the middle of the tread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 Looks like I'll just try bending the bugger a bit. I'm guessing it was bent in a bit at some other point in the truck's life Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 A rotary cutoff wheel makes nice trims...I had issues with my sawsall bending the fenders up...I never said u couldn't run 33s on a stock truck...I said you can't run 33s on a stock truck without modifying something or rubbing... I'm def over cranked tbars and wearing out IFS components...saving for the SAS and 37's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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