TShep704 Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 anyone know what kind or size hitch i would need for my pathy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TShep704 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 just need to pulla smaller boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TShep704 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 but how do i know that it will fit my car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 If you don't have a hitch on your truck you'll need one installed with a 2" receiver and probably a 1 7/8" ball. The ball size depends on what the trailer takes. You will need trailer lights as well. And if you can't back up a trailer...figure it out BEFORE you get to the boat ramp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 A Class III 5,000lb 2" receiver will be fine for you. Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch. U-haul, and others all can manage this. Be sure to have a reputable place install the hitch and do the trailer wiring for you, if you don't know how to do it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 A Class III 5,000lb 2" receiver will be fine for you. Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch. U-haul, and others all can manage this. Be sure to have a reputable place install the hitch and do the trailer wiring for you, if you don't know how to do it yourself. Installing the hitch is very easy... the hardest part is getting it up in place while you get the first couple bolts in. Not sure where you are, but most auto stores will have a 4 wire flat install kit that simply taps in to the connectors for the tail lights on either side of the rear. I got a Reece hitch, only because it was 25% off, and in stock. 2" receiver, 5500lb, 500 tongue. My 04 pathfinder had a couple factory tie downs that were held on with 2 bolts each side. the tie downs and bolts go in the garbage, and the newly supplied hardware is used. Like I said, its very easy, theres no qualification needed for this. if you can change your oil, the hitch will be easier. If you need trailer brakes, I would get that done. I helped a buddy put them in his chev truck, and even in that it was prewired under the dash for the controller, and it still took us 3 hours. A good shop can do this in an hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TShep704 Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 thanks everyone for the help, i appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Depends what you're using it for, for recovery I wouldn't go any smaller than Class 3, 10,000LB which is a 3in receiver. This will also handle way more than your pathfinder will ever be capable of towing anyway. Class III is 2", 5000-5500LB. I have never seen a III smaller than that (or bigger). 3" not as common as a 2.5" ... not sure i've ever seen a 3" most pickups come with a class IV (4) 10,000-12000lb hitch with around 1000-1200lbs tongue weight class V hitches are up to 18,000lbs, You will not find or need a class IV for a pathfinder as they are rated for 5000lbs only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) Class III is 2", 5000-5500LB. I have never seen a III smaller than that (or bigger). 3" not as common as a 2.5" ... not sure i've ever seen a 3" most pickups come with a class IV (4) 10,000-12000lb hitch with around 1000-1200lbs tongue weight class V hitches are up to 18,000lbs, You will not find or need a class IV for a pathfinder as they are rated for 5000lbs only. You are absolutely righty. I suppose I had been mis-informed at some point as well, hate to do the same to someone else. I have Class 3 on my truck, but use it for recovery only, Just looked at it 5000lb, 2", my bad. Deleted my top post. Edited March 27, 2012 by pathybuilder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 You are absolutely righty. I suppose I had been mis-informed at some point as well, hate to do the same to someone else. I have Class 3 on my truck, but use it for recovery only, Just looked at it 5000lb, 2", my bad. Deleted my top post. Edmonton Alberta... opposite end of the spectrum! Did your pathfinder have those factory tie downs on it before you put the hitch on it? How do you use it for recovery, do you have a 2" hitch with a hook on it or something? What about the front, what do you people use for recovery... those two factory tie downs on the front look like they aren't real tough... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I've had to be snagged out o sticky situations using the two hook on my brush guard and the hitch hooks. Neither time did I feel good about them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Edmonton Alberta... opposite end of the spectrum! Did your pathfinder have those factory tie downs on it before you put the hitch on it? How do you use it for recovery, do you have a 2" hitch with a hook on it or something? What about the front, what do you people use for recovery... those two factory tie downs on the front look like they aren't real tough... It has the factory tie downs, but IMO the factory tie downs are for..well...tying it down to a trailer or something, Before I put the hitch on, I had one bend over being pulled out of a ravine. I just don't trust them that much, never mind the fact that you can't fit a 3/4" shackle through them. These will likely be different than your R50 though. Right now I use a standard receiver with a 7/8" shackle through the ball mount, but for about $50 you can buy a receiver with shackle designed for recovery. Up front I have a bumper with 2 x 3/4" Shackle mounts, but before that just used a factory frame mounted tow hook, which worked great. Again, this may not exist on your R50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camelfilter Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 It has the factory tie downs, but IMO the factory tie downs are for..well...tying it down to a trailer or something, Before I put the hitch on, I had one bend over being pulled out of a ravine. I just don't trust them that much, never mind the fact that you can't fit a 3/4" shackle through them. These will likely be different than your R50 though. Right now I use a standard receiver with a 7/8" shackle through the ball mount, but for about $50 you can buy a receiver with shackle designed for recovery. Up front I have a bumper with 2 x 3/4" Shackle mounts, but before that just used a factory frame mounted tow hook, which worked great. Again, this may not exist on your R50 Would something like this work as a recovery aid? Harbor Freight D ring hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erathge Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Would something like this work as a recovery aid? Harbor Freight D ring hitch That's what I use.. I've pulled lots of people out an have never doubted its capability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TShep704 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 so are hitches pretty much universal as far as bolting to the frame correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Access for your tools can tight. The bolts should be torqued. Even though the factory tie downs had two or in my case 3 bolts each, the hitch will prolly use 4/ side. Those holes with the captured nuts are already there luckily, at least they were for me. However those extra threads that were unused had crud fed up with rust and dirt. I didn't have a tap that size so I made one. Using a zip wheel I ground a slot into an old bolt in a couple of places along the length of the bolt. After deburring I greased the bolt and ran it through. Took a couple tries to get the crud out. But the homemade tap worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camelfilter Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 That's what I use.. I've pulled lots of people out an have never doubted its capability. Neat! Especially at only 17$-good to know. Do you use a static type tow (chain/ rope), or one of those stretch "snatch" type straps? My concern with a static type toe aid would be momentarily exceeding the 10K rating if you were to "jerk" as you recover (rock back and forth). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erathge Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 (edited) Neat! Especially at only 17$-good to know. Do you use a static type tow (chain/ rope), or one of those stretch "snatch" type straps? My concern with a static type toe aid would be momentarily exceeding the 10K rating if you were to "jerk" as you recover (rock back and forth). ALWAYS a recovery strap for pulling someone out, or getting pulled out, other types are not meant for trying to get unstuck and can be dangerous. Something like this is what you should be using with the Dring receiver, also a good idea to pick up an extra Dring or two while your at it. My link When I was first gathering some equipment a couple years back, I unknowingly bought a tow strap with hooks, but was quickly told by people that those tow straps don't have any elasticity, and the hooks can be super dangerous if your trying to use it for vehicle recovery. So now you know, and you wont waste $50 bucks like me on the wrong equipment.. Edited March 28, 2012 by erathge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfounder Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 When I was first gathering some equipment a couple years back, I unknowingly bought a tow strap with hooks, but was quickly told by people that those tow straps don't have any elasticity, and the hooks can be super dangerous if your trying to use it for vehicle recovery. So now you know, and you wont waste $50 bucks like me on the wrong equipment.. This didn't make sense to me at first, but I get it now. The hooks being on the strap itself mean that they become projectiles if there's any failure. A recovery strap has loops at the end, which are obviously pretty harmless. Guess it's time to shop for a recovery strap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgallant Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Just to add always start with a pull not a jerk, any time you wind up and try to jerk a vehicle out you are over stressing something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynomax Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 so are hitches pretty much universal as far as bolting to the frame correctly? I had to unbolt that carbon filter or that air box or whatever it is that hangs at the back (drivers side i think it was). There are 3 predrilled and theaded holes for the bolts. Two of the bolt holes (2 each side) held originally the tie down, and the 3rd was left open for i'm assuming a hitch, because thats what bolted in to it. The Reece hitch had 3 bolts per side (new bolts came with it). I used one of the bolts from the factory tie down to clean up the threads on the 3rd hole that was not in use and had no bolt in it before threading the reese bolts in. You also want to torque them down... 110 i think... not sure Hidden Hitch and Reese I believe are the same hitch, but i'm sure all will work. For your trailer lights you can just get the T adapters that fit right in between the harness going to each tail light... makes it a breeze for $20 or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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