Danger Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 So, I've had "black betty" for just over a year now, and it has been love hate all along. I have finally decided that I'm going to keep her, so it is time to do some work. I recently took off the wheel well rust, and bondo'd painted, etc. Today I changed out the spark plugs and wires to all NGK stuff. I bought the belts to do those soon, but wondered what else you guys would suggest. I don't need a lift since its a daily driver, but might look into 31's soon. Any suggestions would be great, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 So, I've had "black betty" for just over a year now, and it has been love hate all along. I have finally decided that I'm going to keep her, so it is time to do some work. I recently took off the wheel well rust, and bondo'd painted, etc. Today I changed out the spark plugs and wires to all NGK stuff. I bought the belts to do those soon, but wondered what else you guys would suggest. I don't need a lift since its a daily driver, but might look into 31's soon. Any suggestions would be great, thanks. Timing Belt if you don't know for sure when it was last done (65k miles for 94 and earlier, 105k miles for 95 and newer), Transmission fluid change/filter change/external cooler/external filter are the top of the list. All the rest are your typical filter/fluid changes. Don't forget power steering fluid and brake fluid flush also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Thought it was 1993 cut off for the timing belt difference. The older models will have square teeth and the 'new' design of the late WD21 vg30-vg33 r50 will have round tooth. At least when you see it, you can tell. If it needs it, a major tune up. Dizzy cap/rotor (cant get to the plugs and wires without), clean the MAF, how's the air filter? Timing? Injector cleaner? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 (edited) Timing belt/waterpump would be my next thing on the list. If it breaks your motor goes pop. It's not that difficult and I've done it a couple of times. I would also get it rust proofed to keep the frame in good shape. Edited March 23, 2012 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Thought it was 1993 cut off for the timing belt difference. B You win the interwebz! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Magicians_Eye Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 (edited) If I was you I would start planning on going threw everything listed above if you want your ride to last. Used car owners tend to forget how many years of wear and tear the parts on their cars/trucks have taken. From my experience when things start falling apart on older vehicles it's like an avalanche of things falling apart. Think about it. If a part made of rubber or plastic falls apart there is a great chance all of the other rubber and plastic parts similar to the one that fell apart will be failing soon. Basically if you plan on being a used car/truck owner and don't want to find yourself in the typical, "$hit now I can't get to work" situation because your ride broke down, You'll need to stay on top of replacing everything at some point. I'd start with the parts that could cause a very unsafe situation i.e. brakes, steering, and suspension. Then go strait for the timing belt, cam/crank seals, water pump, belts, and hoses. Next I'd tackle the vacuum lines and hoses. Then lastly I'd go after the fuel filter, trans cooler (bypass the radiator and buy a nice large external cooler), ignition system, and replace or find replacements for all of the ECU connected sensors. You don't need to replace them if they aren't bad but finding an keeping a replacement will prove to be a huge stress saver when one of them does fail on you. If you do all of those things your ride will last you many many years to come so long as your engine and trans are up to the task wear wise. To many people buy used cars for 1000 or 2 and expect them to last forever just because they ran good when they got it. The above might sound like a ton of money but think of it this way. A payment on a new car would get you for an extra $200 - $600/month for a reasonably priced ride. Then tack on the full coverage insurance and any maintenance costs along the way. If you took half that money every month and spent it on your used car you'd have a really nice ride in a very short period of time. The new car will start to look like $hit and start falling apart in that same period of time after spending twice the money on it. Edited March 10, 2012 by The_Magicians_Eye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwd5021 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 I think he covered it pretty well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 x2 B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danger Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 (edited) Then timing belt / water pump were done 50000kms ago. Not time yet I'd say, all the ignition system I have just replaced. When it comes to hoses and vac lines, is there a set or do I buy each individual? Sorry I may be dumb, last ride was an integra, I could find parts for that with my eyes closed. I sort of enjoy the hunt for parts, but there are no scrap yards near me. I'll have to drive closer to Toronto I guess. I'm thinking new exhaust for better air flow, any suggestions? Edited March 23, 2012 by Danger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Get some manual hubs. I have Warns on mine and they paid for them selves in gas savings in no time. Very easy to install and there are lots of posts on here for help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danger Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 I get about 7L/100km city driving or 16.7mpg. Do manual hubs make a huge difference? I always drive in reverse to disengage the auto hubs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 It won't make any difference on yours. The manual hub swap is for r50s that have full time drive flanges so their cv axles are always spinning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westslope Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I get about 7L/100km city driving or 16.7mpg. Do manual hubs make a huge difference? I always drive in reverse to disengage the auto hubs. 7 litres per 100 km? Wow! I used to get that kind of mileage with the old 1987 1.6 litre engine Nissan Sentra. You either have the best operating pathfinder in the bunch or you are making a measurement error. There should be no need to drive in reserve to disengage the auto hubs. I prefer to change while stationary. Hubs should disengage within seconds of moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danger Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 It won't make any difference on yours. The manual hub swap is for r50s that have full time drive flanges so their cv axles are always spinning. Fair, thanks. I'm trying to talk my buddy into buying a 95 se. I don't live in Ottawa anymore adam, but ill let you know next time I bring my truck to town. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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