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Yeah I'll have to look into the intake maybe down the road. The motor runs great and pulls strong so not sure if I need to reset the ECU but maybe I'll try it to see if it does anything. I think its more of an issue of 153 hp and 180 lb ft of torque can only move a couple of tons so fast but thats okay. Here in Reno people aren't in a hurry most of the time and neither am I. If I lived in Sac or LA however, I would get run over daily I'm sure.

 

I was busy all weekend making room for it in the garage so next weekend I think I'm going to find that fuel leak. I tightened the typical culprits stated on this board but I think its the hose going into the fuel filter thats leaking. I need to change the fuel filter anyways as it looks real old. And I think i'm going to tackle whatever door sensor is whackin out. Guess I'll start with the hatch like some of you suggested.

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You might want to consider investing in an aftermarket air intake and at least a cat back exhaust system. Not too expensive and will probably be the best bang for buck you can do...

 

B

 

Do you or others have recommendations for these.....?

 

I'm guessing changing these will improve gas mileage and power etc.?

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I started smelling gas when I start it up first thing and cold the other day. Did a :search: and found out that those fuel hoses can back out so I gotta check the clamps on all the fuel hoses.

 

I'm having the same problem, and me and my mechanic checked all the hoses and we can't see anything, leaking, loosness, etc.

 

We were thinking it was maybe the "seal" of the full pump top of the tank since I only really noticed the smell during the cold, and not all the time, and thus we were thinking the seal is maybe expanding etc., thus not a good seal?

 

But, then I'm clearly having a clogged Catalytic converter, and from what I hear a gas smell can be part of that problem. Though, we would think that the smell would occur all the time then? So, we are still thinking the seal as the problem?

 

Anyone have any thoughts?

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Mine is coming from the engine bay when cold because the fuel smell is immediately noticeable from the heater if its on and drawing outside air and the pathy is sitting in place.

 

I see you are in Nevada, where at?

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As crazy as this sounds, I had a fuel smell that I thought was from the front as well. It ended up being a spot weld on the tank itself. I had to pull off the tank protector to find it, it was on the passenger side and apparantly it is sort of common to leak from that spot weld. I used some stuff to seal it for now but I'm on the look for a used junkyard tank, or a week vacation so I can pull the tank and seal it the right way.

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As crazy as this sounds, I had a fuel smell that I thought was from the front as well. It ended up being a spot weld on the tank itself. I had to pull off the tank protector to find it, it was on the passenger side and apparantly it is sort of common to leak from that spot weld. I used some stuff to seal it for now but I'm on the look for a used junkyard tank, or a week vacation so I can pull the tank and seal it the right way.

 

Wow, did you smell the fuel all the time or just when the car is running? When Sarge is parked in the garage overnight there is no fuel smell at all. Just when I start it up cold and runs for a few minutes.

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Congratulations on the sweet ride! I replaced the seal on the top of my tank and it was pretty breezy and definitely worth the time spent. It was a PITA to find the correct seal though. I only noticed a fuel smell while I was wheeling or for the first quarter tank after fill up though.

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  • 1 month later...

I had the spotweld gas tank leak described earlier. It was just a wet spot on the tank. Normally I would have just replaced the tank but the only aftermarket tanks available are only 15 gallons. In my opinion, way too small. You have to remove the rock shield to see it. I scrubbed the area down with acetone, sanded it bright and used a tank seal kit that I got from Napa. The kit has a bar of soap like stuff to temp seal the leak prior to starting. Hardest part was getting the bolts to the rock shield off. They are starting to use salt on the streets and highways in Washington state and it really makes simple jobs a pain. The nuts are spot welded to the frame and those had to be knocked off and replaced with regular nuts. The seal is holding up well after a year and just judging on the size of the crack I think it will be a forever fix. I suggest letting the tank run nearly empty. Be sure to remove the cap to let the tank vent prior to doing the fix. You don't want to fight the tank pressure. I also put mine on a side hill to keep the fuel away from the leak.

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More advice. It looks like you have a manual. The 95 manual trans had a problem with incorrect oil level. When it goes bad it will make noise in lower gears but not in 4th. It was corrected by moving the location the fill plug a little higher on the transmission. If you do a lot of off roading especially up steep hills the bearings run dry. There are a couple of treads on subject including the factory notice that explains everything. If you have the old style case be sure it has the correct level of lube in it. Use the correct amount of fluid. Not what the manual says or only up to the fill hole. You can either fill from the top or jack one side of car up.

 

When I first got mine I checked the fluid level on a level surface and it gushed about a quart. I was puzzled and talked to the dealer service manager. He just rolled his eyes, shrugged and did his best to make me feel like an ignorant fool wasting his time. As it turned out it was correctly "overfilled" by a more savy service guy. There was a service bullitin on the subject that he knew nothing about. I followed his expert advice and lost the tranny at about 80k miles. Out of warrenty and out of luck.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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