hcr32 Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Figured since I've used these "How to" threads SO many times that I'd give something back. This is my first "How to" guide so bear with me. In the FSM they call this a "Compression Rod"..@ my local Auto parts place it was called in the computer a "Strut Rod" and I've always called them a "Tension Rod" so whatever floats your boat. Ok here we go. So, to start look just behind the front wheels of your rig. See that Rod going from the LCA to the frame? That is your Strut Rod. You'll notice one black rubber bushing on one side of where it bolts to your frame and one on the other. Although the bushings may look fine, they're not, trust me. Unless they've been changed recently, change them. The bushing kit was $20 with my 40% discount at local auto parts store (Lordco) Time to complete: 2 hours (To be safe) Skill level: Easy Parts Needed: Moog Strut Rod Bushing Kit (1 Kit) Included in the kit is: (4) Strut Rod Bushings (4) Metal Washers (2) Strut Rod Sleeves Tools Required: 19mm Deep Socket 19mm Box Wrench 22mm Deep Socket 15/16 Box wrench Small Pry bar or flat blade screwdriver Your favourite penetrating lube (I used "Move-it) Air Impact gun (If you have it, easier) Torque Wrench So to start: Couple hours before you do this go and spray the 3 bolts per wheel with penetrating lube. you'll regret it otherwise. 1) Jack up one side of your rig (Use a Jack stand please, not a cinder block, not a tire, not a chunk of wood. I use 3 Ton Stands. You're neck is under the brake rotor basically while pulling on wrenches so...DO IT right or game over.) Just so the tire is off the ground then remove the wheel. 2)Remove the Rear most nut securing the Rod to the frame bracket. You'll need the 15/16" wrench as the torsion bars (or the bracket) won't allow you to get a socket in there. 3) Remove the 2 bolts securing the Rod to the LCA. 19mm Wrench on the top of the bolt and 22mm Socket underneath to get the nut off. I used air impact which makes it easier but a good 1/2" drive ratchet will do. 4) Pull the thing out. After the 2 bolts and 1 nut are removed it'll come out. You may have to pry the rear most bushing from the backside of the frame->rod bracket to allow you to pull it out. 5) After it's out, set it on your work space and look @ the rust, destroyed bushings and (if you're lucky like me) the part where the sleeve wore right through onto the actual rod. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hcr32 Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 6) If you're as picky and fortunate as me, to have a sandblaster, I just tossed the rod in the cabinet and blasted it quick to get the rust off. then put some tremclad on it. (Ignore the washer that I didn't take off yet, wack it with a hammer to get it off and put the new one on) 7) Reassemble it as it came apart. Washer, bushing (through the bracket) then bushing, washer, then the nut on the back. 8) It's kinda of a PITA to get back in since the bushings are all new n'stuff so what I did was got it all assembled back through the bracket and zip-tied the rod thru the bolt holes on the LCA until I got the rear most nut tight enough to allow the bolt holes to line back up on the LCA. this also prevents the rod from twisting when you're trying to tighten the rear nut. Then cut the zip-ties and put the bolts back through the LCA and tighen. 9) Torque the nuts down to 100ft/lbs (FSM says 97-108ft/lb I believe, so whatever.) 10) Put the wheel back on, lower your rig down, then start on the opposite side. It's exactly the same on both sides. 11) After all is said and done. Take it for a spin. 12) Have a beer, relax and stare at your rig knowing a job well done! Drive around for a day or so then re-torque the bolts again to make sure they didnt losen off. Any questions, Post them up! Thanks! More how-to guides to come! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Nice write up, thank you! Amazing how bad those can look inside, isn't it? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hcr32 Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Nice write up, thank you! Amazing how bad those can look inside, isn't it? B Thanks! And yes, its quite amazing. I thought about replacing them not long after I got that truck, about 6 months ago, and glanced @ them and thought "Nah, they look fine for now". Then I was in the Auto Parts place the other day and thought "what the hell, its only $20". But ya, I couldn't imagine them getting any worse. It would wear right through the rod eventually then you'd have complete rod failure. Also didn't mention too that I wire wheeled the brackets on the frame then sprayed with "Rust-check" primer then some black tremclad over top. i know it'll probably just wear off but piece of mind for me knowing that I at least tried to prevent rust! I got some gravel guard kickin around..might spray over top with that too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Both of mine are high enough I can just slide under and remove the rod without removing the wheels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hcr32 Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 I probably could have done it without removing the wheels but I did just for easier access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lint Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 My "Compression" Rod or "Strut" rod on both sides were as corroded as yours so I replaced them. I didn't remove the wheels, or jack up the truck and put it on stands. I just crawled under, lay on some cardboard and went to work. Good write-up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 (edited) Nice write-up...I al sways do mine with wheels on the ground so I don't have to fight it...an fyi the bushing retainer in the last pic is on backwards...it will cut into the bushing and damage it if it's a left that way over time...compare to first pic Edited March 2, 2012 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hcr32 Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Nice write-up...I al sways do mine with wheels on the ground so I don't have to fight it...an fyi the bushing retainer in the last pic is on backwards...it will cut into the bushing and damage it if it's a left that way over time...compare to first pic O crap! Thanks for pointing that out. I knew I shouldn't do much when I'm overtired! haha Thanks for the heads up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 No prob...I did it before... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I had issues for about 2 months...all stemming from this... Finally found some bearing races to weld on and cleaned up all the surfaces BC I had originally rewelded on the inside of the cup and it causes the bushings to fail...I had also straightened and rewelded the bent part above...about 20 good whacks with a 5lb got.her back in place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACEX2 Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Thanks, Im about to do this next weekend. Where you able to torque down the 15/16" nut to spec? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hcr32 Posted March 3, 2012 Author Share Posted March 3, 2012 Thanks, Im about to do this next weekend. Where you able to torque down the 15/16" nut to spec? Wasn't able to get the torque wrench in there..and really there is no way since the bracket basically prevents it so I just "guessed" as best I could with the wrench. Im going to drive for a bit then snug it up after/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 I had something like unccpathfinder did. Everything failed to the point where the frame needed to be welded and the entire strut rod assembly had to be replaced on both sides. Don't wait until it's too late! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Mine was solid...but the rock was harder...I have little to no rust on my truck... You could use a crows foot to torque it but most stuff I use the German torque spec...read aloud...gutentite (good n tight) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 So you DIDN'T have to replace that tension rod? That's ridiculous damage though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hcr32 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 The picture below the one you quoted is a picture of the rod with that steel collar off. Most of what looks damaged and screwed up is that steel spacer...wasn't bad once it was off....i little notch worn into the rod and thats it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therepairgod Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 could you put the moog part number up please? even napa was confused as to what i was talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hcr32 Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K9515 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 So I know it's not really a how-to question, but I'm curious to know if anyone knows why nissan made this design? Like what specific advantage did it offer compared to a regular A-arm like the upper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 It braces the lower arm quite well in the opposite direction of travel, which makes sense really. Without it I think the bushings in the lower arm wouldn't last nearly as long and those are a hell of a lot harder to replace. Also, it was a 'proven' design, my D720 has an almost identical set up. Really, the only thing they did wrong is not make it a regular maintence item. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 (edited) The WD22 (Xterra) no longer has these things. Instead they use a different LCA design that works just as well. Back in the day they just went from forward mount tension rods to rear mount compression rods to save the tension rods from bending all the time when off-road. Just replace the bushings every 5 years or so and everything will be fine. They are pretty cheap anyway and you won't have to deal with cups or get new rods if you don't put it off. Edited August 15, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 (edited) My uncle helped me do mine today. It wasn't too bad, but the bolts needed a little torching to come off, and the job certainly needed doing. Both sleeves were worn through, and the rods were a little worn, but nothing we decided to worry about. The cups were knackered though. The passenger's side one was actually broken, which might explain some of the thumping noises the truck made on corners. So we welded L68111 bearing cups in their place. I had the idea to use one of the old buggered rubber bushings on the rod to center the cup for tack welding, and this seemed to work pretty well. Once it was tacked my uncle pulled the rods back out and welded the cups on the rest of the way. The rear cups looked okay, so we just did the fronts and called it good. We didn't bother sandblasting, but we did apply anti-seize to the rod bolts and bearing grease to the rusty bit of the rod to protect it from moisture. Now it just needs an alignment! And thanks for the write-up, it helped a lot. Edited October 20, 2012 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 I had issues for about 2 months...all stemming from this... Finally found some bearing races to weld on and cleaned up all the surfaces BC I had originally rewelded on the inside of the cup and it causes the bushings to fail...I had also straightened and rewelded the bent part above...about 20 good whacks with a 5lb got.her back in place Can you explain what I'm looking at and elaborate on what you're talking about? Im completely lost on this one lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 The camera is underneath right-hand side of the truck, looking up and forward. The long blue thing is the torsion bar. The blue thing on the right is the UCA. And the bent-to-hell bracket in the middle is the bit that the strut rod bushings clamp onto. See the metal plate on the bottom of the bracket? Scroll up to my last pic, you can just barely see that plate sticking out around the bottom edges of the bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now