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EGR Delete VG30E?


tmoore4512
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Okay so since I had the upper plenum off I was curious if it would be possible to delete the EGR valve from the system...

 

Had anyone done this before, if so what were the results?

 

I have done it to older model GM vehicles, and it seemed to improve performance...

 

I realize that the EGR system on some vehicles is used to recirculate hot gasses into the intake for cold start assistance as well as to more efficiently burn fuel...

 

I may be totally off base here, and yes I did search. There are articles on EGR valves, but none on the removal of...

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Simply the thought. I read the wiki you linked to, very informative. I have been reading through various forums similiar to this one with different vehicles, and have seen that it is mostly a "cosmetic mod that offers no real advantage and may cause lower MPG's."

 

I do not believe that on the VG30E there is an electrical portion that would tell the ECU that it was there or not...

 

Will check tomorrow when it is not so cold...

 

Ultimately I am not entirely sure why I would do it, other than it costs an arm and a few toes to replace it...

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Most new cars do not even have an EGR valve. Instead, I think they probably use overlapping camshafts to scavenge the exhaust gas within the engine, which has the potential to prevent carbon build-up in the intake and it's just as efficient as having a real EGR valve. I saw a few Chrysler engines with the EGR port just capped off.

 

Anyway back on topic... Yes, you can easily remove the vacuum to the EGR valve by pulling off the tube that goes to the top of the valve and capping it. Be aware that you are going to get lower miles to the gallon but you will get slightly more low end power. If you have a BPT valve next to your EGR valve then you probably don't need to do anything at all. The BPT valve already reduces the vacuum to the EGR by 50% or so.

Edited by Tungsten
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I'm not entirely convinced that the VG30E is advanced enough to actually increase efficiency with EGR, but I certainly wouldn't delete it if it is still working properly. I could see disabling it if you had a problem (clogged valve or something), but even then it would be ideal to keep in order to reduce NOx emissions (though I'm not sure how much it helps with that for the VG30 either).

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Several people have plugged the EGR piping without any harm done other than it won't pass smog, at least visually. Many headers don't even have the ERG provision, Thorleys do being CARB compliant.

If it works right it is a positive system from what I have read, but doesn't seem necessary. :shrug:

 

Most new cars do not even have an EGR valve. Instead, I think they probably use overlapping camshafts to scavenge the exhaust gas within the engine, which has the potential to prevent carbon build-up in the intake and it's just as efficient as having a real EGR valve.

Really??

 

B

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Be aware that you are going to get lower miles to the gallon

 

No you won't.

 

It's just another dumb emissions part they had to put on, cap it off and unplug what goes to it then forget about it.

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Yeah I have a deleted the egr on my old vg30e.. did it because I simply could not get the Damn bung out when I replaced my cracked manifold so I just capped it. Noticed no difference... then when I swapped to vg33e and headers I just left it out. No problems... good power and mileage...

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I'm not even sure I have an EGR system. I was selling some doors to a fellow D21 owner and he asked to take a look at my engine bay to see if he routed his vacuum hoses properly. Then he said he noticed that I didn't have an EGR valve. In my head, I kept thinking he meant PVC and I kept pointing to the PVC valve, but he was pointing to something near the PVC and telling me it was plugged. Then he pointed to my plugged exhaust manifolds and told me he has a hose going from the exhaust to a system near the throttle body and into his intake manifold.

 

IDK if this means that I don't have one, or I have a different style. It sure gave me something to think about though.

Just for the record, mine's a 1994 D21 and he had a 1993. Both with the v6 and identical in most every other way.

 

EDIT: I have a feeling I'm going to get trolled by Tungsten because I'm talking about that secondary system or something. The one that he made a post about and some Nissans have it, and some don't.

Edited by 1994SEV6
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So I did quite a bit of reading on this subject last night, and it seems that the opinions are mixed. There are more however that report absolutely no difference in removing the EGR system and components, even going as far as the EVAP system and related items. Both in power and in mileage. One individual stated that after removing the said system he had issues cold starting the motor, but that simply does not compute with how the EGR system works... (Mind you it was not a VG30E but a 1.9 Ford motor.)

 

My valve is bad, needs to be replaced... At $100 to nearly $200 just to replace it, that is quite a hit to my slim skinny style wallet... Not sure just yet what I plan to do, as there is in fact an electrical connecter that is used to monitor EGR temperature... Not sure how that will affect the operation of the motor if removed.... I am sure it would send a different signal to the ECU in the absence of the EGR...

 

Here is the underside of the intake plenum... showing the EGR and related piping etc.

 

underside_intake.jpg

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Took mine out, not much of a differnece. I took everything out, capped all the ported vacuum lines and exhaust tube to the manifold. The check engine light comes on with an EGR code and wont go out. I just pulled the bulb out while i had it out to fix the tach.

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So with a CEL will not the Nissan ECU go into otherwise known as "limp mode?"

It didnt surprisingly enough! It was just giving the code that there was an EGR malfunction, I'm assuming with this, its not enough to throw it into 'limp mode'. It was getting the reading off of the the egr solonoid valve which has been yanked as well. The EGR is more or less for exhaust emissions and we don't have them on Vancouver Island. I'd still have it on of I hadn't cracked the egr casing itself trying to undo the exhaust tube. (damn manifold stud replacement). The only other thing I noticed since doing this is that the exhaust smells a bit 'richer'. Overall, I wouldnt recommend taking it out if there's no need to but if it is and you live somewhere there's no emissions laws, it doesnt hurt anything. Maybe just a bit of a drop in power but hey, on the pavement, these things are about as 'performance' like as a deep freeze on tires.

Edited by TugboatTony
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I noticed a gain in power if anything on my truck. I am also running a vg33e with intake headers and 2.5 exhaust. No egr, I have a 93 and I have zero issues and no codes or check engine light. Starts within 1-2 cranks every time. Runs and drives like a bat out of hell. I'm convinced the egr is useless other than maybe to help emissions a bit... they don't even use them on most jdm Nissan motors.

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I had a broken hose going to the bpt valve and the CEL did come on and I had an "egr function" code. Just letting you know. IMO pulling the bulb is dumb b/c what if something else breaks and you wont' know.

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I had a broken hose going to the bpt valve and the CEL did come on and I had an "egr function" code. Just letting you know. IMO pulling the bulb is dumb b/c what if something else breaks and you wont' know.

"Dumb"? Thnak you for the input Mr. Zan, pulling the light may be dumb to some, but, if something is wrong i wouldnt know as I cant use the light as reference since it was on constantly anyways. As arrogant as this may sound, a lot of people in here as well as I dont need the truck to tell them something is wrong via dummy light to assume something is up. I will check for codes if something doesnt feel right. To each his own though right?

Edited by TugboatTony
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No you won't.

 

It's just another dumb emissions part they had to put on, cap it off and unplug what goes to it then forget about it.

I don't know about that one but if you say so then I will have to agree. I know someone on here capped it and got worse mileage but I got a different opinion about it from others where it actually made the power better but no difference in mileage. :shrug:

It does improve power if you remove it, I have done that one before. I would just unplug that crap so you could plug it back in for emissions testing if you live in a state that requires emissions. If not, @!*%can it.

 

Just a little FYI here: My cluster has a blank spot for a CEL but I just run a bulb there to monitor the oxygen sensor. It does not go on with the EGR unplugged or at least I haven't done enough testing to make sure that it won't go on.

 

Removing the EGR function is very simple. Just unplug the tube going to the vacuum of the EGR valve and cap it. If you have a CEL after that, you can try and unplug the temperature monitor for the EGR. If you have the BPT valve, don't worry about it because once you pull the vacuum to the EGR valve, the BPT valve will become inoperable. Better yet, just pinch off the tube going to the valve and then you don't need any caps.

 

429748_10150590797269075_612879074_9068372_168478130_n.jpg

Edited by Tungsten
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So I went around and tried to locate the said parts, I think I will end up just buying one on eGay and installing it when it arrives... Less than $20 shipped, compared to around $45 at Lowes and TSC...

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I opted to keep my EGR valve system and pulled a used one off of a good parts truck... Not interested in having any CEL issues... even if it doesnt go into limp mode...

 

As for what I was going to purchase...

 

An oil catch can setup for the PCV system to prevent the huge buildup of crap in the intake...woo hoo...

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