dart6 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hi i have a 95 teranno V6 auto.I've read the how to sticky. I've removed the wheel, oil filter,loosened the tranny lines, no skid plate and i've dropped the drag link. The only way i can see it coming out is forward but for the life of me it doesn't want to come. I disconnected the oil pressure wire but left the others on and fed them thru. Does anyone have a pic of where the 3 screws holding the solenoid shield are located Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 you can slide it forward enough to get a good look through the wheel well. This is the point where I removed the shield and was able to get it out easily. I never replaced the shield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 +1, that shield over the wires gets in the way. My dad left it off when we did mine (the second time!) and that was a year ago... no problems since. That's my shield. There are four holes where there should be two... first time we replaced the starter we had to re-drill it, because the new starter's mount holes were different. The second time the holes were different again and had to be sort of between where we already had holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonehead Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 did u unbolt the steering arm and pull it down so u have more room in the front to pull it out??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Didn't touch the steering. IIRC it's a matter of rolling it to the side just enough to get it past the lines and whatnot. Also, it's a PITA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Steering arm? Do you have a right hand drive truck? ADM or JDM? In USDM trucks the oil pressure sender, firewall, motormount and frame are the key suspects in making the starter replacement a pain! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dart6 Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 Steering arm? Do you have a right hand drive truck? ADM or JDM? In USDM trucks the oil pressure sender, firewall, motormount and frame are the key suspects in making the starter replacement a pain! got it out in the morning with better light, undoing the 2 oilpan brackets that hold the trans lines made it a piece of cake getting it in and out with that shield on rh drive and i dropped the steering arm, doing that and undoing the 2 brackets are key Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amfq120 Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 I was able to wiggle mine out forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaBigPerm Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 I toss in my two cents on this older thread since I've had to pull my starter a few times over the last week with torque converter work. First, it helps to turn the front wheels hard left (for a LHD Pathy). Due to the geometry of the steering, the center/drag link will move forward slightly, probably 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, at full turn. But, if football is a game of inches, getting these starters out is a game of fractions of an inch. Every bit helps. FYI: I turn it hard left, instead of right, because it looks like the steering dampener bracket would get in the way if I turned hard right. Then, I loosen the idler arm pivot nut (the one on the passenger side of the center/drag link on a LHD Pathy) and drop it down as far as I can without removing it completely - I usually leave the nut threaded a few threads and rubber-band a little baggie or old glove to it as a reminder to tighten it back up before hitting the road when I go to put the starter back in. This lowers the center/drag link about 1/2 to 3/4 inch for more sweet, delicious wiggle room. Next I remove the front four bolts holding the trans fluid lines - 2 on the front of the trans pan and two more further up forward of the starter. This gives you some room to move those lines around and hopefully jockey them out of your way as you work the starter out. After loosening the starter and pulling it forward a few inches, I make sure to unhook the oil pressure sending unit (it's easiest to see and access from below - the manifold blocks your view of it from above). I didn't do this the first time and ripped the wire out of the crimped-on spade and had a dangling "mystery wire" staring at me when I got the starter out. That oil pressure wire is bundled with the starter wiring, and unlike the rest of the wiring doesn't have enough slack to allow the starter to come forward and out while still attached. It's still a PITA, but hopefully this might result in a slight reduction in cussing and thrown tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Then, I loosen the idler arm pivot nut (the one on the passenger side of the center/drag link on a LHD Pathy) and drop it down as far as I can without removing it completely - I usually leave the nut threaded a few threads and rubber-band a little baggie or old glove to it as a reminder to tighten it back up before hitting the road when I go to put the starter back in. This lowers the center/drag link about 1/2 to 3/4 inch for more sweet, delicious wiggle room. Smart man! I'm also enjoying the sweet, delicious wiggle room, but only because I have wished for it in the past... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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