pathyboy12 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 hey everyone, i have a 96 XE and its been doing some strange stuff... first off my passanger side headlight went out, didnt think anything of it just changed it, along with my driver side one. now the driver side new one went out and when my low beams are on my high beam indicator lights up.. Also i went to start it one night and it fell flat on its face "click" then i turend it off and tried again it fired right up. And tonight i hit a bump that moved my foot off the clutch and killed it went to start it and nothing.. turned if off tried again nothing. opened my door and my gauges and everything came back on so i tried again.. nothing, then i opened and slammed the door and tried, she fired right up.... I thought it might be a ground or somthing shorting out... but im not sure. so if anyone has any ideas it'd be great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Start with the battery. Remove each cable and make sure to clean off any corrosion making sure that you have a good contact with both battery posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathyboy12 Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 ok, i just replaced both terminals and cleaned off any corrosion. still happening... if i turn on my lights she dies... alternator? also i had to change the connector for the fuse box right next to the battery with an eye loop and in in line fuse wire... is there any other way to make it more stable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Do you have to jump start it to get it running? If you do not have access to a voltmeter, you could start the truck and remove the positive battery cable from the post with the engine running. If the engine dies then it is most likely the alternator. However, if you have a volt meter you should have around 13.8-14v ON THE BATTERY POSTS with the engine running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathyboy12 Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) The first time i tested it, it was at 12.48 running, turnned my lights on and it died and blew the inline 10 fuse. i changed the fuse to a 30 and it seamed to work, and battery was at 14.18v running. is there a better way to set that up? i dont really like that in line fuse set up... and could my alternator still be bad? and no i dont have to jump start. Edited January 26, 2012 by pathyboy12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfounder Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 If the voltage regulator inside the alternator is bad, it will blow things up all day long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathyboy12 Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) alright decided to take it out... have it all the way out except the clip wont come out! Edited January 26, 2012 by pathyboy12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clkindred Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 also i had to change the connector for the fuse box right next to the battery with an eye loop and in in line fuse wire... is there any other way to make it more stable? This "connector" you speak of, are you talking about the battery-to-distribution box wire? That's the only thing I can think of that fits that description, but I'm not looking at my path so I could be wrong. Whatever it is, why did you have to change this component and add a fuse? Is there some mod I am not aware of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathyboy12 Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 This "connector" you speak of, are you talking about the battery-to-distribution box wire? That's the only thing I can think of that fits that description, but I'm not looking at my path so I could be wrong. Whatever it is, why did you have to change this component and add a fuse? Is there some mod I am not aware of? the plastic clip on the back of the alternator, i got it but it was covered in mud... and i had took it in to get terminals put on... i didnt have a crimpper and it was only 20 bucks, mine were falling off, so i said why not... but the dumb a@$ decided to cut off the ends of the two wires that come from the fuse box by the battery and twist them together and put an inline fuse from them to an eye loop on the terminal... i dont know what to call it... but its where the two wires frome the fuse box connect into a red little square that attaches to posotive terminal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clkindred Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 the plastic clip on the back of the alternator, i got it but it was covered in mud... and i had took it in to get terminals put on... i didnt have a crimpper and it was only 20 bucks, mine were falling off, so i said why not... but the dumb a@$ decided to cut off the ends of the two wires that come from the fuse box by the battery and twist them together and put an inline fuse from them to an eye loop on the terminal... i dont know what to call it... but its where the two wires frome the fuse box connect into a red little square that attaches to posotive terminal. That's strange... So any luck with your problems yet? If not, can you post a pic of this modification to your wiring? I don't know if it could be the source of the issues, but by the sound of it, it just dose not seem right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clkindred Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 You know, come to think of it, that little red box that flips up and down and covers the positive post on the battery is kind of built into the factory cable terminal. I remember replacing my terminals and the ones I got did not have provisions for this "thing" so I had to improvise. Sounds like this had to be done for your new terminals as well BUT, there is not a fuse engineered into this part of the wiring from the factory, so there should not be one there now. Here is a picture I have of these wires, the red "box" is bottom left with two wires coming out and going to the distribution box. Is this what you are talking about? *in the pic there is a small red wire with an in-line fuse holder, this is for my air compressor I wired in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathyboy12 Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 Yup, that's what I'm talking about... bottom left of the picture... he cut that off and put an inline fuse with 14 gauge wire and an eye loop that attaches to the positive terminal. Hopefully my alternator will come in tomorrow so can put it in and try to figure this out... still thinking there's something grounding out or some kind of wire problem... headlights shouldn't blow a 30 fuse... hopefully not to complicated.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathyboy12 Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 Yup, that's what I'm talking about... bottom left of the picture... he cut that off and put an inline fuse with 14 gauge wire and an eye loop that attaches to the positive terminal. Hopefully my alternator will come in tomorrow so can put it in and try to figure this out... still thinking there's something grounding out or some kind of wire problem... headlights shouldn't blow a 30 fuse... hopefully not to complicated.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathyboy12 Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 Sorry... didn't mean to post twice... using the mobile version... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathyboy12 Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 It's called a distribution box! Figured it out.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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