Alternator Swap Problem

[wd21overland]

Update-

 

Ok, I bought an alternator wiring kit as it was cheaper than just buying individual wires. I removed the fuse links from the battery port and added a multiple 14ga wires where it needed to be. I ran the 4ga wire from the battery with the 80a fuse directly in line with the dual white wire at the back of the alternator. The charging system works a little better. Max voltage is 14.46 alone, with the lights on, or the heater fan on. When everything is on and makes a full load and put the Path into drive, the voltage dips into 12.8v and the car starts to stumble.

 

I know in the FSM, the white/black wire from the battery goes to a circuit breaker. Anyone knows where this is located.

 

Here is a sketch of what I copied to what I have done and some numbers for your information.

 

Any other help would be much appreciated as this did not fix my problem. It just placed a band-aid.

 

Tony R.

 

 

It's not the voltage causing you to stumble both of my pathfinders my 92 and 95 both stay around 12.5v at idle when the heater is on full and headlights on and they idle perfect and have never stumble 12.8v is fine.

 

I went outside real quick to verify what you did and with everything on its right at 12.5 to 12.6v so that not causing your stumble.

 

The factory service manual shows that voltage is perfectly with in factory limits.

Edited January 8, 2012 by wd21overland

[wd21overland]

Also i don't know if you have done this yet but have you check your ecu for codes since the pathy doesn't use a dummy light you have to check your error codes at the ecu.

 

You can use it to check your air/fuel mixture, O2 sensor and MAF sensor along with codes.

 

Here is the procedure.

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21

Edited January 8, 2012 by wd21overland

[tmoore4512]

Okay, a lot of good input here... Mine runs at 12.5-13.6 depending on where the load is.

 

My suggestion would be to check your grounds. More importantly the ground straps that goes from your frame to your manifold/block areas. When I did my maxima swap, I had some strange idle voltage issues, (no stumbling or hesitation.) I resolved this by fixing the grounds, and making sure they were clean, and or replaced etc.

 

I am sure you have already done that, but I did not see it listed...

 

On a second or side note, I would definitely check your ECU for codes. You would be surprised what you will find...

[DarkDragon]

i think i got it... sorry i did not get any codes on the ecu when i did this on saturday.

 

anyways, saturday morning, i went back to that electronic shop and told them that their recommendation of a bad maf was wrong and they need to put it on the invoice they gave me stating that the maf did not help the cause. i went back to napa and returned the maf. they tried to give me the run around about returning the maf since i was a private buyer. i told napa that i went the the electronic shop they recommended and i have the invoice from them stating that i needed a maf, and underneath stating maf did not help. napa took the maf back as defective and gave me a refund. i then go ahead and order both coolant temp sensors and a t-stat. i go to the junk yard and pull an ecu and gauge cluster.

 

at the yard, i swapped both coolant sensors and the ecu. drive 40 miles and swap the gauge cluster but kept my original speedo. 100 miles later, i am doing good with no more stumbling.

 

so in other words, what i did:

both coolant temp sensors

ecu

gauge cluster

"no problem" I HOPE...

 

i just opened the old ecu, but i could not notice anything in there being burned or slight discoloration. i may just swap it back to see it is the actual ecu.

------------------

 

no for some suspension work.

 

tony r.

Edited January 9, 2012 by DarkDragon

[tmoore4512]

Cool, glad you got it resolved...