ahardb0dy Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 (edited) Finally got around to replacing the Tension Rod bushings today here are some pics, Pass side: Pass side shaft, clean: Pass side bushings and sleeve: Pass side one old bushing showing hole elongated slightly: Pass side old vs new (Moog part): Dr. Side, outer bushing came right off, inner bushing I had to use a meter wrench (from work) to remove the bushing, Sleeve did not want to come off right away but I got it finally: all the cups on the frame mounts were intact and in good shape. Edited October 23, 2011 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Yeah, those look not so bad actually. Good job replacing them before bad stuff happened! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Thanks, I noticed the outer bushings looked like they were all cracked so I figured it was time to replace them, they are probably original knowing my buddy that I bought the truck from!! Hardest part was getting the 2 bolts in the control arm to line up and taking the rear nut off with a wrench a 1/4 turn at a time took a few minutes. It's funny I get this deja vu feeling when ever I replace something on the PF, like I did it before..... Probably because I have !! on the ole Hardbody!! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Those are in great shape. Mine weren't too bad when I changed them but I put new rods in anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 What did you use to get that big nut off on the end? Regular socket and wrench or impact gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I did the same thing this weekend as well. Mine were in similar shape with the driver side a little more beat up than the passenger side. I used the energy suspension poly bushings and greased them up good with a high quality marine grade grease. The second side went quickly after tightening down the big nut to line up in the two bolts in the control arm. Next project is the ball joints, tie rods, CL, and IA rebuild, which are all vintage 92. I’ll probably repack the wheel bearings while I’m at it. Unless you remove the torsion bar, the only thing you can use is a wrench, preferably boxed (24mm). I use a combo of 22mm/19mm wrenches and sockets for the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 15/16" wrench will do the trick too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 What did you use to get that big nut off on the end? Regular socket and wrench or impact gun? I have used a socket breaker bar and also a impact they all work good. I have a slim impact though i dont remember if it was a tight spot anymore or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 What did you use to get that big nut off on the end? Regular socket and wrench or impact gun? I was able to get a socket/breaker bar in there for removal. Installation I used a 24mm wrench. X2 on those being in good shape! Good thing you changed them when you did. By the point I got this far I had to order up two new rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Thanks guys,I'm guessing with the tire off I'll have to lift up on the lower arm control to take off some of the tension to loosing that big bolt huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I think if you have no lift, the "no tension" position is with the truck on the ground, wheels still on. Getting it off isn't likely going to be the problem... the part that I've found a bit tricky is getting the two bolts lined up between the bar and control arm when reinstalling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 (edited) This is how I did mine: removed center cap and loosened lugs Jacked up one side at a time under the control arm, I put one of the tabs on my floor jack cradle(not sure what you call it) into the hole on the bottom of the control arm removed lug nuts and tire placed a jack stand under the control arm right where the lower ball joint is lowered floor jack to put weight of truck on the jackstand but left the floor jack under the arm for safety removed rear nut with wrench, 1/4 turn at a time (15/16"), No way was I getting a socket in that small area !! removed rear washer and bushing loosened 2 nuts on the bolts that hold the tension rod to the control arm, I used a 3/4" ratchet I have with a 1/2" adapter that I use as a ratcheting breaker bar removed the 2 bolts slid tension rod forward into control arm and removed front bushing and sleeve the one side the sleeve wouldn't just slide off so removed the tension rod with the front bushing and sleeve still on the rod removed the tension rod wire brushed the thread on the 2 bolts and the rear of the tension rod, made sure the surface the sleeve sits on was clean and smooth, wiped the holes in the frame down reassembled slid arm back into control arm placed front washer and bushing on new sleeve in place and held there while sliding the tension rod thru the sleeve thru the hole in the frame mount, you can also put a bushing on the sleeve and insert the sleeve thru the hole in the frame from the rear side than put the front bushing on the sleeve and insert the tension rod thru the sleeve placed rear bushing onto sleeve placed rear washer over tension rod installed rear nut and tightened until nut stopped I used a screwdriver thru the hole in the control arm and thru the tension rod to stop the tension rod from turning while tightening the rear nut used screwdriver to line up one of the holes in the control arm with the tension rod hole installed one bolt and nut did not fully tighten yet had to pry on end of bar, side of bar to get 2nd hole to line up installed 2nd bolt and nut tightened both nuts double checked rear nut and rechecked 2 nuts and bolts going thru control arm put tire back on put lug nuts back on jacked up truck and removed jack stand lowered floor jack and removed tightened lug nuts and installed center cap went to other side Edited October 25, 2011 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 This is how I did mine: removed center cap and loosened lugs Jacked up one side at a time under the control arm, I put one of the tabs on my floor jack cradle(not sure what you call it) into the hole on the bottom of the control arm removed lug nuts and tire placed a jack stand under the control arm right where the lower ball joint is lowered floor jack to put weight of truck on the jackstand but left the floor jack under the arm for safety removed rear nut with wrench, 1/4 turn at a time (15/16"), No way was I getting a socket in that small area !! removed rear washer and bushing loosened 2 nuts on the bolts that hold the tension rod to the control arm, I used a 3/4" ratchet I have with a 1/2" adapter that I use as a ratcheting breaker bar removed the 2 bolts slid tension rod forward into control arm and removed front bushing and sleeve the one side the sleeve wouldn't just slide off so removed the tension rod with the front bushing and sleeve still on the rod removed the tension rod wire brushed the thread on the 2 bolts and the rear of the tension rod, made sure the surface the sleeve sits on was clean and smooth, wiped the holes in the frame down reassembled slid arm back into control arm placed front washer and bushing on new sleeve in place and held there while sliding the tension rod thru the sleeve thru the hole in the frame mount, you can also put a bushing on the sleeve and insert the sleeve thru the hole in the frame from the rear side than put the front bushing on the sleeve and insert the tension rod thru the sleeve placed rear bushing onto sleeve placed rear washer over tension rod installed rear nut and tightened until nut stopped I used a screwdriver thru the hole in the control arm and thru the tension rod to stop the tension rod from turning while tightening the rear nut used screwdriver to line up one of the holes in the control arm with the tension rod hole installed one bolt and nut did not fully tighten yet had to pry on end of bar, side of bar to get 2nd hole to line up installed 2nd bolt and nut tightened both nuts double checked rear nut and rechecked 2 nuts and bolts going thru control arm put tire back on put lug nuts back on jacked up truck and removed jack stand lowered floor jack and removed tightened lug nuts and installed center cap went to other side Thank you,I appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 Anytime, as someone added the hardest part is lining up those 2 bolts but once you do one side the other will go easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elko88 Posted August 3, 2017 Share Posted August 3, 2017 I know this is an old post, but I need to replace mine on my 88. Can anyone tell me where I can find them. Pulling my hair out trying to locate them. Thanks, David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 The bushings or the rods? Rockauto has the bushings cheap (suspension -> strut rod bushings). I've seen them called strut rod bushings, tension rod bushings, and compression rod bushings, so keep an eye out for that if you can't find them under one name. The rods, you might have to try factorynissanparts, courtesy parts, or a wrecking yard. Mine were clean enough to reuse so I didn't have to go down that road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted August 12, 2017 Share Posted August 12, 2017 Mine didn't look as good as yours. I had to weld a couple bearing races to make mine useable again. Anyway it is often a part that is overlooked when doing the front suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosangel Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 So welding bearing races... My mount are oval and I read some where about welding washers to them because of that. So my question is what size washer? I have the races Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCAda Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 This may be a really old thread, but I thought I would start here to find an answer to my problem. I have noticed several people here using bearing races to replace the bushing cups on their strut rod (compression rod?) assemblies. These have long since rusted away on my vehicle and I need to do the same repair before putting everything else right. My question is what part/part# are these bearing races and where do you get them? Thanks in advance to anyone out there who can help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 I used Timken L68111 cups when I did mine, and got them from a local parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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