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Sub Frame drop


DCgabel
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Alright, so this is how my pathy looked before i started

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this is what it looks like now.Stock fender height was 32inchs, now im sitting just above 38. from the four inch block i spaced the sub frame plus the tires.(went from stock 28s to 32s)

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This is how i supported the front end so i could lower the sub frame. I put jack stands behind the front wheels and

on the frame rails just behind the rad on either side of the truck just so it would prevent the truck frame from sagging(more or less a piece of mind because i left it up on stands for four days,cuz that's how many evening its took me to complete it)

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When i was done that, i removed the front struts. first i unclipped the break lines from the strut shaft and then disconnected my sway bar. after that, i took out the two bolts fastening my struts to the hub and the three bolts at the top which i unscrewed from inside the engine bay.

I then used ratchet straps to keep weight of my balls joints and put blocks of wood under my control arms to keep my CVs from binding.

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once the struts were out i unfastened the CV axle to get at the engine mounts. there are four bolts on either side that hold the CV axle to the sub frame.(i used the jack that came with the truck to lower the axle because i needed my only other jack for the sub frame)

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I actually unscrewed the passenger side engine bolts first before i did this. it wasn't until i came to the driver side and took a look at how tight everything was that i realized id have to drop my CV axle. I had to use an extension and a pivot head socket connector to work around the CV axle after i lowered the it.

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So, when i finally had the engine lose i cut some 4x4 blocks and put them under my oil pan to support the weight of the engine.I put one under my tranny as well just because i didn't quite trust my oil pan.

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After that, i went around to the front and took the bolts out of the bracket that the skid plate was connected to.(there was only four) I then unclipped the rack and pinion sensor, unfastened the power steering hose(didn't disconnect them, just loosened the brackets) unclipped the breather tube and took out the steering link.

I braced the steering wheel up using some 2x4s so it wouldn't move on me when i put the new steering link in.

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So when that was all done i slid my jack under the sub frame. i cut a 2x4 the length of the sub frame just so the jack was resting against wood and not directly against the frame.

I then took out all eight bolts holding the sub frame.(four bolts per side)

Once i lowered the sub frame i fasted my engine blocks to the engine. i didn't torque the bolts, i just lightly threaded the bolts on. I bolted all four of my sub frame blocks on the truck itself(not the sub frame) again just threading the bolts so that all the blocks were fairly lose. i brought the sub frame back up to the blocks and lined everything up using a long shank screw driver and torqued all the bolts on.(BUT, before i torqued the bolts i installed my new steering link. the sub frame was tight to the underside of the truck before i did this)

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once all the blocks were in and bolts were tight, i reconnected the sensor and the breather tube.(i had to get a longer tube because the old one was too short) i could have extended my power steering tubes to but i didn't, ill more than likely do it later.(also i still have to rotate my steering rack because it rotated a little when i dropped my sub frame as you can see in the picture above)

So when i was done with the sub frame, i bolted my strut spacers on my struts nice and tight and threw my struts back in. I reconnected my sway bar and put my extended brake lines in.(i know i dont have my lines in yet in this picture but it was taken before. I also cleaned up my springs a little so they would match the ones im putting in my rear.

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I am currently working on the my rear part of my lift.

Edited by DCgabel
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  • 2 months later...

15inch keystones $440ish for the set of four.

 

Hey nice rig. What kind of wheels are those on your pathfinder? The black ones, also what size?

 

Thanks!

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  • 3 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Who made the SFD you're using?

 

I made the SFD myself. i purchased some 2x4 quarter inch steel and cut it into lengths i needed and then bought some three inch Cherokee springs and RS5000 Rancho shocks for the rear. I basically replicated what KRfabs has for the SFD. i did buy the steering wheel link and the sway bar link from KRfabs though.

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Also did you do the SFD without the AC 2 inch lift? So just 4.5 inches vs 6.5 inches??

 

I dont have an AC lift no. So yes the SFD only gave me 4.5 inch of lift. But from stok tire size to the 32s it gave me an extra two inch of high.

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I dont have an AC lift no. So yes the SFD only gave me 4.5 inch of lift. But from stok tire size to the 32s it gave me an extra two inch of high.

 

I didnt want to go higher than that because then id have to replace a lot more parts and start trimming my wheel wells and i didnt want to do that.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Hey im doing this same thing but i dropped the struts 5inchs and i figured out the hard was that i must drop the sub frame. so i like the amout of clearance with just the strut spacer, but the lower A arm angle is a bit extreme. so i need someones opinon on if i drop the sub frame about 2.5 inchs so i can still get a decent A arm angle if itll align and be alright

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as of now this is what my R50 looks like.IMG_0010.jpg

 

Congratulations on your pathy. Very nice looking.

I would like to know where did you get the spare tire mount. Is it Nissan original or aftermarket?

Thank you.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Looks Good, I like the idea of doing it without the AC lift. so did you have stock spring in the front?

I did, i left the stock spring on the front. The rear coils youll have to replace because they will be too small. I used 3" wj cherokee coils.

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